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2007 CBR600RR
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I was out on a ride when i broke my key in the gas tank lock. I removed the ignition Key lock and seperated the electrical key switch from the lock housing, turned the switch two clicks to the right and rode home. The next week i thrned the key switch two clicks to the right and got nothing. NO Instruments, NO Lights, NO Starter. The Battery has 12.43 vdc, the fuses tested Good, i have no power to the Ignition Key Switch or anywhere else.
 

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First, charge your battery. Anything under 12.6v is too low to even try to crank this bike. You need 13.0v on a freshly charged battery.

If you don't have power past the fuses then who cares that they "tested" fine. Replace the 30 amp main or the 20 amp igniton fuse with a known good one you ohmed. How did you test them? By ohm or visual? You apparently shorted a 12v and blew a fuse. If all the fuses still check out go to your main ground cable on the left side of the frame. Clean and grease with dielectric grease along with your battery cables.

This is a good example of why we need to keep some good lubricant like Yamalubzall on the cables, ignition switch, and the tank cap key and locking mechanism. I periodically spray/lube these components.

With the key stuck in the fuel cap how do you plan on refilling the tank? If that was your only key then you might as well order a new ignition and fuel cap.
 

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Did you measure and test 30a main-fuse? It's not located in fusebox, but on starter solenoid.

If it's good, sounds like bad wiring between output of 30a main-fuse and ignition-switch. Just 2 measurements will confirm:

1. measure voltage of 30a main-fuse output at starter-solenoid. red wire, volts = ???
2. measure voltage at ignition-switch input, red wire, volts = ???

If this wire has power on input end, but no power on output end, it's obviously bad and should be replaced.

Could also be with disassembled ignition-switch, some of terminals were mis-aligned and over time, they vibrated apart completely and no longer make contact when turning. Make sure you get OEM replacement ignition switch with new key from authorised Honda dealer. Works right away and doesn't require weeks of fiddling and jerry-rigging to make work like aftermarket switches.
 
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After you sort out above, please be aware of battery age and history.

I found out the hard way that if charging system is ok.....once battery starts to fail (for example my OE lead acid Yuasa) bike will start ok and as you go....weird behavior starts and just gets worse and bike will not restart after a good run.

then it's a sad time...dead bike...even a good bump start won't get you home
 
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