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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well if you read my slipper clutch install (which is still not a sticky for some reason) and thought "there is no way i can do that"
then i have good news for you. the shock is very simple.

(i know paul already did one of these but its included in a bunch of other things)

first thing is to get the bike up in the air.
i am not going to go into how to do this. there are so many methods already discussed but basically you need the bike in the air with the swingarm completely extended with no weight on it.

i used a floor jack under the oil pan and then lowered the aftermarket foot pegs onto car jacks. it is very solid.



if you still have the oem foot pegs, do not do it this way. they will fold up and your bike will crash, i suggest hanging the bike by the subframe from the rafters or whatever else you have handy that will support the bike.

the idea is there can be no weight on the swingarm.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
you dont necessarily have to take the rear wheel off but it will make things a lot easier.

the rear hugger will just get in the way if you leave it on as well.

these are the two bolts we are looking for.
top


and bottom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
both bolts use a 14mm hex head with a 17mm nut.
it is a tight fit on the top so i suggest a 17mm open end with a 14mm socket up top.
an extension on a breaker bar will help since these are torqued pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the bottom bolt comes out just like the top. same size wrenches needed.

the interesting bit is that they were installed opposite.
the 17mm nut was on the right (riders perspective) on top and the left on bottom.

sometimes they dont want to come straight out.
just wiggle the swingarm and the bolts will pull easily

in case you forget the longer bolt is the top
 

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Discussion Starter #5
next pull the top of the shock to the rear and then pull back
it will come right out




once my ohlins from superbike supply comes in a day or so i will finish this up
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok lets finish this

here it is in all of its swedish radiance


i went with the PRXLS because i have one on my 1000rr and am more familiar with it than the TTX.

also i know the general consensus around here is that if you dont need the 3 way then dont get it.
after talking to brad at superbike supply, i was convinced that a hydraulic preload was necessary due to the ease of adjustment.

ok so what did that leave us. there is the elka 2 way with hydraulic preload for right at 1K dollars from sportbiketrackgear.com. for the price of that and a tank of gas Brad got the ohlins to my door. i think i made the right decision.

i was also looking at the penske triple but again no hydraulic preload and i didnt want to have to deal with finding a place to mount the remote reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just like removal,
with the bike up on jack stands and the swingarm all the way extended line the shock body up and slide it in


here is where i would deviate from the way i ended up doing if i have to install again.

put the hugger on now.
we will see why later

put something under the swingarm to hold it up.
this will raise the linkage to allow you to line the lower bolts up (remember which one it is right)
without having to hold the swingarm and bolt and shock

a roll of paper towels puts the swingarm perfectly into position
 

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Discussion Starter #9
line the bottom up with the linkage and push the bolt through right to left.

i used loctite on the nut, probably not needed but i am paranoid.
then torque to 32 ft/lbs

remove the paper towel roll holding the swingarm up and line up the top bolts
again loctite and 32 ft/lbs


this is the issue with the hugger. the stock shock clears easily.
if you dont put the hugger on before you tighten up the ohlins it will block the middle hole for the hugger bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i just worked around it. just loosen the remote preload bracket and it will give you a little working room.

lot easier if you do the hugger first.

but thats it
lower the bike off the jack stands and onto your rearstand.
put the rear wheel back on and adjust chain.
set sag and you are ready to start dialing it in.
 

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here is the ohlins compared to stock.

it is just so well made it makes the stock shock look like it came off of a BMX bike from walmart.
i know what u mean, when i did mine, i pulled the stock one off thinking it would be similar in quality to my MX showa units in the past, and i laughed at how cheap it felt and looked.
u can tell its one place they definitely cut costs.
 

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hey just wanted to say great write up. i put on a penske double 8983 and followed the instructions and wanted to let everybody know that a penske shock setup for a fatty like me 240+ needs to go in from the bottom instead of the top.

in order to do this you need to take off the lower plastics
take off the bolt for the swing arm into the dogbone. then take off the frame into the dogbone bolt and you can slide it up from there.
 

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i know what u mean, when i did mine, i pulled the stock one off thinking it would be similar in quality to my MX showa units in the past, and i laughed at how cheap it felt and looked.
u can tell its one place they definitely cut costs.

Wow, that's surprising. Besides the valving everything about that shock is very high quality. In fact, if it only had ride height adjustment there would be no reason to buy an aftermarket unit.... except for impressing your friends I guess. The revalving I've done on the 07+ stock shocks, including my own bike, have all worked great.
 

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Wow, that's surprising. Besides the valving everything about that shock is very high quality. In fact, if it only had ride height adjustment there would be no reason to buy an aftermarket unit.... except for impressing your friends I guess. The revalving I've done on the 07+ stock shocks, including my own bike, have all worked great.
Mine had a few problems with poor QC. The biggest problem is that I could only get a few clicks of preload adjustment out of it. If you tried to go farther with it the lower spring seat would spin instead of letting you adjust the collar. (It was only held in place by a small dent in the plate and it would ride over that bump and spin 90*) It did it's job but it left a lot to be desired as far as adjustments go.
 

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Mine had a few problems with poor QC. The biggest problem is that I could only get a few clicks of preload adjustment out of it. If you tried to go farther with it the lower spring seat would spin instead of letting you adjust the collar. (It was only held in place by a small dent in the plate and it would ride over that bump and spin 90*) It did it's job but it left a lot to be desired as far as adjustments go.

Unfortunately that is a downside of that particular shock. The issue is that the black powdercoating/paint between the inside of the adjsutment collar and the base gets stuck together. It's almost like it was wet paint when put together. Whenever I upgrade those shocks I clean up that area and put a little grease in there and it's not a problem after that.
 

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