today i put on a afam 15tooth front sprocket on my 06 600rr you can tell the difference already it comes up easier. my ? is what can i expect when i get my +2 rear sprocket which will be 45tooth i'm guessing it will pull up so easily it'll make you sick
-1 front
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thank god for this thread, im about to do the switch too.
so the front sprocket alone, and u pull noticibly harder? im wondering if thats enough for me. id hate to have to switch the rear too. i just need more pull sometimes and dont really need the top end. ive gone 154 and dont plan on doing it again.
so the front sprocket alone, and u pull noticibly harder? im wondering if thats enough for me. id hate to have to switch the rear too. i just need more pull sometimes and dont really need the top end. ive gone 154 and dont plan on doing it again.
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757 Posts
i would suggest gettin a f4i rear sprocket on ebay really cheap bout 20 bucks shipped thats goin to b +3 u could get a feel for it without blowin the money plus if ur like me and have an xtra hub i can switch gears in like 3 mins.
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1,219 Posts
hey dave, i remember u telling me to do that back in the day when i got that other sprocket/hub off u. my question is:
What is the difference between going down in the front vs up in the back?, like why dont people just go up 4 in the back rather than down in the front at all?
What is the difference between going down in the front vs up in the back?, like why dont people just go up 4 in the back rather than down in the front at all?
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3,532 Posts
the biggest difference that you would notice is at the pump...
when you change your gearing, you not only take out the top speed, but also your fuel efficiency.
-1/+2 = 15/45 = stock/+5 = 16/48
this gearing would make your front end pop up like a teenager in a strip club.
seriously, if youre skilled enough, your first and second gear is as fast as any liter bike...thing is, if youre not careful, your front end will stand up....and when you guys (your RR and the liter bike) click into third, the literbike would just make you eat his dust.
well, i guess thats the response youre trying to look for.
cbr/ls1's setup is good because it doesnt hurt the fuel efficiency as much
when you change your gearing, you not only take out the top speed, but also your fuel efficiency.
-1/+2 = 15/45 = stock/+5 = 16/48
this gearing would make your front end pop up like a teenager in a strip club.
seriously, if youre skilled enough, your first and second gear is as fast as any liter bike...thing is, if youre not careful, your front end will stand up....and when you guys (your RR and the liter bike) click into third, the literbike would just make you eat his dust.
well, i guess thats the response youre trying to look for.
cbr/ls1's setup is good because it doesnt hurt the fuel efficiency as much
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356 Posts
Get out your calculators!
The front to rear ratio is the issue. Whether you lower your ratio by dropping teeth at the front or adding at the rear is irrelevant*
Here are some popular ratios in descending order:
43/16=2.6875 Stock
45/16=2.8125 +2 at rear
43/15=2.8667 -1 at front
45/15=3.0000 the popular -1/+2
FWIW:
I went with the everso popular -1+2 and found this annoyingly low... I got into 6th in town and it was really whining at normal highway speeds.
Then I went back to the stock front so 16/45 (cuz I had a pretty gold 45 rear sprocket) This was a nice compromise... the front comes up nicely (for those of us who like that sort of thing) but you could crüz on the highway without it being irritatingly high rpms.
Note that 15/43 is a very similar ratio to the 16/45 that I am running. For budget conscious riders I bet they'll find the front comes up nicely by just going down one at the front to a 15 and this will be much cheaper than getting a bigger rear, and it will fit with the stock chain.
*Yes, you racer dudes, rushing to bust my ass for this oversimplification, I realize that how you arrive at your final gearing affects your wheelbase and therefore turn in and stability, but for the average joe that wants to impress the chickies by doing a wheelie I think this isn't that important!
The front to rear ratio is the issue. Whether you lower your ratio by dropping teeth at the front or adding at the rear is irrelevant*
Here are some popular ratios in descending order:
43/16=2.6875 Stock
45/16=2.8125 +2 at rear
43/15=2.8667 -1 at front
45/15=3.0000 the popular -1/+2
FWIW:
I went with the everso popular -1+2 and found this annoyingly low... I got into 6th in town and it was really whining at normal highway speeds.
Then I went back to the stock front so 16/45 (cuz I had a pretty gold 45 rear sprocket) This was a nice compromise... the front comes up nicely (for those of us who like that sort of thing) but you could crüz on the highway without it being irritatingly high rpms.
Note that 15/43 is a very similar ratio to the 16/45 that I am running. For budget conscious riders I bet they'll find the front comes up nicely by just going down one at the front to a 15 and this will be much cheaper than getting a bigger rear, and it will fit with the stock chain.
*Yes, you racer dudes, rushing to bust my ass for this oversimplification, I realize that how you arrive at your final gearing affects your wheelbase and therefore turn in and stability, but for the average joe that wants to impress the chickies by doing a wheelie I think this isn't that important!
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606 Posts
I wen't -1 in the front. It was perfect. You will be able to notice a huge difference. It feels like you pissed off the bike ahaha. It took Dave and I about 20 minutes to swap the sprocket.
Gearing is probably the cheapest performance upgrade you can do. I only paid $20 for my 15t sprocket.
-Denny
Gearing is probably the cheapest performance upgrade you can do. I only paid $20 for my 15t sprocket.
-Denny
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114 Posts
ok so what is the noticable difference from -1 in the front with 525 and that of 520?
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282 Posts
i did -1 up front with a new 525 chain and rear sprocket(stock size) and i didn't notice much of a difference...
i wasn't able to ride it for about 3 weeks though while it was getting fixed so maybe i just don't realize it
i wasn't able to ride it for about 3 weeks though while it was getting fixed so maybe i just don't realize it
So maybe I missed it, but if I were to go -1 in the front, I would be able to keep my stock chain? Also, where is a good place to get a -1 front sprocket?
And, just for sheets and grins... If you were to go with a 1:1 ratio for your front and rear sprockets, you would theoretically have a top end (barring physics and the lack of horsepower to get there) of like 450mph. Conversely, if you were to switch your front and rear sprockets, you would have a top end of like 1200 mph. Isn't math fun? Thanks to NewRedRider for the gearing calculator.
And, just for sheets and grins... If you were to go with a 1:1 ratio for your front and rear sprockets, you would theoretically have a top end (barring physics and the lack of horsepower to get there) of like 450mph. Conversely, if you were to switch your front and rear sprockets, you would have a top end of like 1200 mph. Isn't math fun? Thanks to NewRedRider for the gearing calculator.
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