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Discussion Starter #1
Help please...

Firstly I was riding along back from work and my lights was getting dimmer then my lights basically ran out and clocks turned off..

Then about a minute later I came to a stop as no power.

Finally got home, checked battery and it was at 10v wouldn't start, put a different battery on and it was going down like this..

10.00
9.99
9.98 and so on about 5 second intervals between it dropping.

Changed rectifier and no difference, put my battery on dads cbr and battery is fine, bike charges it.

What could it be and how do I test alternator/stator easily without buying one, can't think what else it could be..

13,600 miles
cbr 600rr 2005

Any help please..

Thanks :)
 

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There are three wires that come out of the alternator. Take a multimeter, set to VAC, probe across two at a time (1-2, 2-3, 1-3), rev to 5k ish and see that the reading is above 60 volts. Mine got into mid 70's when I checked it a while back. Another check is to set the multimeter to continuity and probe each wire separately to ground. For this test the bike needs to be off. If you see that there's continuity anywhere, it usually means a short in the windings. Be it to another phase or the case.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Could I do this or is this wrong advice..

Start the bike and disconnect the battery, if it runs its not the alternator if it does it is?
 

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Could I do this or is this wrong advice..

Start the bike and disconnect the battery, if it runs its not the alternator if it does it is?
That will not work on a motorcycle system, the battery is part of the electrical circuit on 98% of the cycles on the road today.

Been talking to a car guy, I see......bikes rarely have alternators, they have stators:)

Buy a service manual, stop guessing and asking questions that are right there for you to do step by step including the values things should be. That is the best, easiest and in the end cheapest way to fix this issue.

Mike
 

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That will not work on a motorcycle system, the battery is part of the electrical circuit on 98% of the cycles on the road today.

Been talking to a car guy, I see......bikes rarely have alternators, they have stators:)

Buy a service manual, stop guessing and asking questions that are right there for you to do step by step including the values things should be. That is the best, easiest and in the end cheapest way to fix this issue.

Mike
Maybe the word for it would be a magnetic coil.

Here's a pic for reference.

 

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Buy a service manual, stop guessing and asking questions that are right there for you to do step by step including the values things should be. That is the best, easiest and in the end cheapest way to fix this issue.



Mike

This might be true but you can follow the service manual exactly and get all correct readings and the stator can sill be bad. I had the same issue that the OP has and it ended up being my stator and rectifier. I initially checked the rectifier and found it to be bad. I still had the problem. I checked the stator just how the service manual said and it passed. I replaced the battery and that wasn't it. Then I did some more testing on the stator and found it to be bad. The easiest way to check it has already been posted above, check the output voltage while the engine goes above idle. As the RPMs increase so should the voltage. It's a very easy fix.
 

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This might be true but you can follow the service manual exactly and get all correct readings and the stator can sill be bad. I had the same issue that the OP has and it ended up being my stator and rectifier. I initially checked the rectifier and found it to be bad. I still had the problem. I checked the stator just how the service manual said and it passed. I replaced the battery and that wasn't it. Then I did some more testing on the stator and found it to be bad. The easiest way to check it has already been posted above, check the output voltage while the engine goes above idle. As the RPMs increase so should the voltage. It's a very easy fix.
All is true above but checking the charging voltage at idle and above are one of the first charging system tests in the manual and well before checking components part by part in their sequence. The main issue people have with checking the stator and it testing good when it's not are the small values you are supposed to get resistance wise and the fact it can test fine cold but fail hot.

What was the more testing you did to the stator to determine it was bad?

Still, the service manual is the single best thing you can buy followed only by the Honda Common Service manual when it comes to troubleshooting bike issues.

Mike
 

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Pretty much if your bike isn't idling with a reading of around 13+ volts and higher as steady throttle is applied, Your stator is likely the culprit. It's the only thing generating power supply. Otherwise your battery will piss out until you can't even start it anymore. It's very simple. It's very simple until you install a new stator and the bike doesn't turn over like I'm dealing with on an older vfr.
 

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It's very simple until you install a new stator and the bike doesn't turn over like I'm dealing with on an older vfr.
Not sure which gen VFR you're dealing with but I've owned an 87, 90, 93, 97, 98 and an 02 for a short time so I've pretty much seen them all and worked on them all. The main gen 3/4 issues are the RR cooking itself from lack of airflow then taking out the stator and battery in their way out. If you're lucky simply replacing those items, using heatsink compound on the replacement RR (and a small fan or upgraded unit doesn't hurt) will bring everything back; if it's been acting up a while and you're unlucky they take the wiring harness connections and the starters out as well.

Not sure of your symptoms, not sure what all the issues are or your knowledge in dealing with these things but if the stator and RR are good try bench testing the starter and pulling connections apart in the starting circuit to see if there are any charred connections.

Mike
 
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