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Hello to all,

I have just returned from the mechanic the usual problem about the cam chain tensioner that needs to be fixed.
Here in Greece, the OEM costs 140$ with the currency change and +100$ for the payment of the mechanic.

IT'S TOO MUCH FOR MY POCKET NOW.

So i think i will buy the APE ,and install it myself.

As i have read the best thing to do, is :
1)Take off the plastics
2) Remove the screws of the old tensioner OEM
3) Put out the tensioner cam chain
4) Replace the OEM with the APE
5) Screw the bolt in,until i found resistance on the bike (with the bike turned off)
6) Power up the bike,and then +/- adjust the bolt according to the sound that you hear.

I don't think it's hard to do it alone,rather than to pay the mechanic so much money.


What do you think;
Thank you and yes we are sure that is CCT!
 
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Ok ,i just want someone that knows ,to answer my questions.
 

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I replaced my CCT 2 weeks ago. Didn't go the APE route as I've read more than a few horror stories on it, but then again I've read just as many success stories :dontknow:. Anyways, I replaced with an OEM CCT. Other than needing really small fingers and it being bitch to access everything, it was an easy replace. IMO hiring a mechanic to do it would be a complete waste.
 

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I replaced my CCT 2 weeks ago. Didn't go the APE route as I've read more than a few horror stories on it, but then again I've read just as many success stories :dontknow:. Anyways, I replaced with an OEM CCT. Other than needing really small fingers and it being bitch to access everything, it was an easy replace. IMO hiring a mechanic to do it would be a complete waste.
OP. Sorry for the double post, but if I edit my above post you wont get notified. Check out these links for instructions, the second link is an excellent write up with pics.

http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=135386
What horror stories ; Please tell me.

You had bought the OEM CCT, with the Gasket; You didn't need any kind of tool ;
 

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Yea go ahead and do it yourself, it's a pretty easy job. The only difficulty is lack of space to maneuver tools around so it just takes some patience.

If you go APE it will require periodic adjustments. Don't know what kind of interval but not that often. Most likely when you start to hear it rattle again. Just don't over/under-tighten too much. Your method sounds good.
 
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Yea go ahead and do it yourself, it's a pretty easy job. The only difficulty is lack of space to maneuver tools around so it just takes some patience.

If you go APE it will require periodic adjustments. Don't know what kind of interval but not that often. Most likely when you start to hear it rattle again. Just don't over/under-tighten too much. Your method sounds good.
Yeah i have already tried to put my hands on it , it's super easy . But i didn't change it , i only tried to figure out how to take it out.

About the APE i know that when i hear the sound to make it tight again.
 

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I've read a few reviews much like the first post by Zippy in the following link:

http://www.motorcycleroadracingforums.com/yaf_postst729_APE-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Install-Fail.aspx

There are few like this on a gsxr forum as well. It seems its not always black and white as to getting the proper tension on an APE. And if you get too much tension it can lead to serious problems. But like I said, half of the other reviews say its the best thing ever.

And yes I bought the tensioner AND the gasket, they did not come together. The tensioner did however come with the tiny tool needed to retract it. I have read that you can use a smaller flat-head screwdriver in place of the tool. Got them both from hondaparts-direct.com for $74.16 shipped.
 
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I've read a few reviews much like the first post by Zippy in the following link:

http://www.motorcycleroadracingforums.com/yaf_postst729_APE-Cam-Chain-Tensioner-Install-Fail.aspx

There are few like this on a gsxr forum as well. It seems its not always black and white as to getting the proper tension on an APE. And if you get too much tension it can lead to serious problems. But like I said, half of the other reviews say its the best thing ever.

And yes I bought the tensioner AND the gasket, they did not come together. The tensioner did however come with the tiny tool needed to retract it. I have read that you can use a smaller flat-head screwdriver in place of the tool. Got them both from hondaparts-direct.com for $74.16 shipped.
Can you tell me what is the procedure ;

As i can understand is that for a safe remove of the OEM CCT you need to put in the Neutral position the Engine ;;;;:ponder: and then remove it,then you install the new one and you tight it until you find a "wall" ???:ponder::ponder:
 

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"Neutral" position on the engine is TDC (top dead center). It takes like 10 seconds to do and all you need is a socket and ratchet. You just rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the timing mark lines up with the pre-punched mark on the edge of the case. Nico hits on it on the 5th picture down in this thread: http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375
I'm tied up at the moment, but if no one has answered you I'll get you an answer here in a bit.
 
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"Neutral" position on the engine is TDC (top dead center). It takes like 10 seconds to do and all you need is a socket and ratchet. You just rotate the engine CLOCKWISE until the timing mark lines up with the pre-punched mark on the edge of the case. Nico hits on it on the 5th picture down in this thread: http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=223375
I'm tied up at the moment, but if no one has answered you I'll get you an answer here in a bit.
Yeah . I saw it, it's easy as i can figure it out.

I think i will buy the OEM one,rather than to buy the APE,the price is almost the same to have my mind clear.

Let me say the steps to correct me.

1) Take out the plastics
2) Take out the right side of the cover engine,i see the "T" letter i rotate it with a wrench to the position that is already been pointed.
3) I loosen the TOP bolt of the tensioner a little bit
4) I take out the 2 bolts that are left
5) Remove the tensioner
6) Install the new tensioner
7) Push the bolts until they are really tight
8) Take from the OLD tensioner the "TOP" BOLT and install it on my new tensioner.
9) I am ready to go. :gun1:

Correct;
 

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Your process sounds spot on to me. I would add on step 4, you have 2 bolts to remove, remove them at the same time. In other words loosen the top a little, then the bottom, then top, then bottom and so on.

Also, the directions with the tensioner say to retract your old tensioner fully before removing it just to make the removal process easier. I didn't do this as I couldn't get my big ol fat fingers to cooperate with the tool in that tight of a space. It didn't matter though, once I had both bolts removed the tensioner came right out.

Between step 5 and 6 remember to remove the old gasket, and install the new one.

And when you install the new tensioner, the directions once again say to fully retract it before installation. This time i did retract it, and it actually was a lot easier to get it back in there. Once both bolts are tightened just pop the tool out and it'll auto-tension.
 
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Your process sounds spot on to me. I would add on step 4, you have 2 bolts to remove, remove them at the same time. In other words loosen the top a little, then the bottom, then top, then bottom and so on.

Also, the directions with the tensioner say to retract your old tensioner fully before removing it just to make the removal process easier. I didn't do this as I couldn't get my big ol fat fingers to cooperate with the tool in that tight of a space. It didn't matter though, once I had both bolts removed the tensioner came right out.

Between step 5 and 6 remember to remove the old gasket, and install the new one.

And when you install the new tensioner, the directions once again say to fully retract it before installation. This time i did retract it, and it actually was a lot easier to get it back in there. Once both bolts are tightened just pop the tool out and it'll auto-tension.
I understand quiet well the 1st paragraph.

The second one,is a little bit to hard understand what is your saying,sorry for that.

And on the third what do you mean retract;
 

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Ah sorry man, let me try to explain. So the tensioner itself is shaped kind of like a cone, the cone part is a case that doesn't move. Inside of that case there is a rod that protrudes from one end of the tensioner. This rod is what tensions the cam chain, it can be "retracted" in or extended out from the tensioner (the cone shaped part). If you had the tensioner in your hand with no load on it or any tools on it, the rod on its own will want to extend out as far as it can, which increases the overall length of the tensioner. Thus it is harder to fit into a tight space. If you "retract" this rod it makes things a lot easier as the length of the tensioner will be smaller. You retract the rod via a cross shaped cavity on the backside of the tensioner with either that small tool or a small flat head screwdriver. -That was probably clear as mud, but its the best I can do.
 
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Ah sorry man, let me try to explain. So the tensioner itself is shaped kind of like a cone, the cone part is a case that doesn't move. Inside of that case there is a rod that protrudes from one end of the tensioner. This rod is what tensions the cam chain, it can be "retracted" in or extended out from the tensioner (the cone shaped part). If you had the tensioner in your hand with no load on it or any tools on it, the rod on its own will want to extend out as far as it can, which increases the overall length of the tensioner. Thus it is harder to fit into a tight space. If you "retract" this rod it makes things a lot easier as the length of the tensioner will be smaller. You retract the rod via a cross shaped cavity on the backside of the tensioner with either that small tool or a small flat head screwdriver. -That was probably clear as mud, but its the best I can do.
Yeah i understand now.

What do i need to do to retract the rod ; Do i need to rotate clockwise until the end,end see full length;
 

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When you buy the CCT it should come with the tool that keeps it in place in the retracted position. Leave it in there until it's installed in the bike.

If it does somehow extend then you use a flat blade to wind it back in, while pushing it back into the housing. Hold it in the retracted position while you put that tool back in.

All the info is in my CCT thread, it's really an easy thing to do. And it's not really tight. If you go really tight you may strip the threads. It just has to be tight enough not to fall out or loosen off.
 
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When you buy the CCT it should come with the tool that keeps it in place in the retracted position. Leave it in there until it's installed in the bike.

If it does somehow extend then you use a flat blade to wind it back in, while pushing it back into the housing. Hold it in the retracted position while you put that tool back in.

All the info is in my CCT thread, it's really an easy thing to do. And it's not really tight. If you go really tight you may strip the threads. It just has to be tight enough not to fall out or loosen off.
Do you know any kind of site that i can order the OEM with shipping to Greece;

I want to change it as fast as i can .

Because even though that the APE is, much cheaper ,it won't be the same.

Another question.

When i put the bike to the "T" mark , on the right side of the engine,and afterwards,i remove the OLD OEM ; And then i install the new one,and take out the "tool" that holds it inside and then its all done;

answer this questions please.

And one last thing, is there by any means inside the "engine" the chain of the tensioner to be loose;
 

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Good call on the oem one. I put the ape in my 03 f4i and I've had it in for about 8k miles but I always worry about needing to adjust it. Never adjusted it yet because I know its just right but I always worry about it. Wish I would have got the oem one for peace of mind. Just take your time and it should go pretty easy if you get the oem because it will self adjust to the proper tension rather than guessing. I was nervous when I put ape cct in because I worried about tearing my motor up because of too much tension.
 

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Do you know any kind of site that i can order the OEM with shipping to Greece;

I want to change it as fast as i can .

Because even though that the APE is, much cheaper ,it won't be the same.

Another question.

When i put the bike to the "T" mark , on the right side of the engine,and afterwards,i remove the OLD OEM ; And then i install the new one,and take out the "tool" that holds it inside and then its all done;

answer this questions please.

And one last thing, is there by any means inside the "engine" the chain of the tensioner to be loose;
Don't know anything about getting parts in Greece. I'm sure Honda East Toledo will be able to help you out though. If they don't send parts overseas they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And sorry, I don't quite understand what the questions are? If the first one is just about the order to do things in then pretty much yes.
 
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Don't know anything about getting parts in Greece. I'm sure Honda East Toledo will be able to help you out though. If they don't send parts overseas they should be able to point you in the right direction.

And sorry, I don't quite understand what the questions are? If the first one is just about the order to do things in then pretty much yes.
ΟK let me try to explain it.

1) I open the right cover and wrench my "disk" to the position of the "T" Mark to have it on Neutral.

2) Then i take out the 2 screws,of the tensioner,and afterwards i release the top bolt of the tensioner or it doesnt matter;

3) When i will put the new one, the new one will still have inside "his" top bolt, the thing that i holding the tensioner to expand, i put the 2 screws first and then i tight up ,and take out the "tool" that is holding the tensioner;
 
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