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Discussion Starter #1
I'm pretty sure my battery is on the way out. I charge it and it's at 12.6V. So I take the battery to the dealership to get it load tested. So the guy goes in the back and tests it, comes back and tells me it doesn't past and the battery dies, I figured. But he tells me he can try charging it with their charger see if it does brings it back to life so to speak. I come back a couple hours later to pick it up, he tries again and says it work now. I'm thinking BS but I'd thought I'd see if anyone has any insight to see it this is true. Should I go some place else and try again?
 

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My opinion: If there's only so much as an indication that the battery is going to die, I replace it, cars and bikes.
Charging it off the bike only delays the inevitable, and you are riding with a questionable battery.
 

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Take to any auto parts store such as pep boys , discount auto
they can get it load tested usually for free
 
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Question: What rate are you charging the battery for, and what length of time?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Pulled the battery out of the bike and charged it with a battery tender over night. I took if first to Kragen but they don't test bike batteries but he measured the volts and said it was at 12.6V. And then I had it loaded tested at a dealership and initially it didn't pass. I'll try another place on my way home.
 
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so you don't know what rating it was charging at...

i wonder if it was float charing it instead. 12.6 is bare minimum voltage. should be 13.something. batteries should be charged at 900mA for 10 hours or 4.5A for 1 hour. those are the specified ratings. 2A for 5 hours should be ok.
 
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charge it up, test it again. 190 CCA is the rating on the battery, anyone can test them.
 
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sure. overnight is best. i don't like automatic chargers though. i don't like the fact that they shut off when ever they feel like it.
 

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sure. overnight is best. i don't like automatic chargers though. i don't like the fact that they shut off when ever they feel like it.
I just bought a battery tender plus today cause i have a lowjack somewhere on my bike and it has a draw of .2 or something like that on the battery. that being said i just read that the battery tender plus goes into "storage" mode to keep the battery "ready to ride" or so it claims. I guess i'll find out sooner or later.

I need something like that if i have this lowjack drawing direct from the my battery rite?? what do you think?
 
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I just bought a battery tender plus today cause i have a lowjack somewhere on my bike and it has a draw of .2 or something like that on the battery. that being said i just read that the battery tender plus goes into "storage" mode to keep the battery "ready to ride" or so it claims. I guess i'll find out sooner or later.

I need something like that if i have this lowjack drawing direct from the my battery rite?? what do you think?
the battery is just big enough to run the bike, nothing more. if there's any kind of Live accessory on there, i believe that one should use an external power source to run it.
 

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the battery is just big enough to run the bike, nothing more. if there's any kind of Live accessory on there, i believe that one should use an external power source to run it.
well accord to support, the battery contained on low jack is for backup. in other words if some ASS***E come along and jax my bike and disconnect the batt...the backup batt kix in.
 
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yes, i realize that. doesn't matter, totally different than what we're talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so I decided to get myself a multimeter and see if the battery was the problem, it was cheaper than buying a new battery.

So I took the voltage of the battery, it was at about 12.3V. Started the bike went up to 13.4V. Turned on the brights went up to 13.5V and rev'd it up to 5K went up to 13.7V.

Checked current leakage was with spec.

Checked R/R voltage reads same as battery.

Check R/R ground it's fine.

Checked R/R resistance and this is where the problem came up all three yellow wires came up about 3.8 Ohms.

So being the Electrical Engineer that I'm not, this means I need a new R/R right?
 
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Ok so I decided to get myself a multimeter and see if the battery was the problem, it was cheaper than buying a new battery.

So I took the voltage of the battery, it was at about 12.3V. Started the bike went up to 13.4V. Turned on the brights went up to 13.5V and rev'd it up to 5K went up to 13.7V.

Checked current leakage was with spec.

Checked R/R voltage reads same as battery.

Check R/R ground it's fine.

Checked R/R resistance and this is where the problem came up all three yellow wires came up about 3.8 Ohms.

So being the Electrical Engineer that I'm not, this means I need a new R/R right?
Being the Electrical Engineer that you (nor i in all honesty, i'm just good at this stuff) are not... we cannot conclude that the battery is within specification without load testing it. To do that you need load testing equipment found at your local auto parts store. Charge the battery, (4.5 Amps for 1 hour, 2 Amps for 5 hours or 900 mA for 10 hours) take the battery to an autoparts store that can load test batteries, tell them the CCA is 190 and get your battery status.

Now, your Ohm readings really trouble me, more directly, how you said you tested them. are you testing the yellow wires that come from the Regulator/rectifier, or the wires that come from the stator cover? You should be testing the wires coming from the stator. if this is the case, and your readings are in fact above 1.0 Ohms... you need a new stator.

This is how you should be checking resistance. The X's denote testing leads, either positive or negative (doesn't matter) from the stator cover. never mind the dashes, they are there for formatting purposes.

-x--x
[O O O]

-x----x
[O O O]

----x-x
[O O O]
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I'm taking the test from the yellow wires from the R/R. The stator is within spec.

I marked them A, B, C. So I want AB, BC, AC.

So I'll get the battery load tested and if that passes then it's the R/R?
 
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I'm taking the test from the yellow wires from the R/R. The stator is within spec. So I'll get the battery load tested and if that passes then it's the R/R?
The resistance in the r/r is not important, it's voltage output is. if the stator is in spec (as i've outlined the test procedures), then your r/r is not outputting enough voltage to charge the battery. you can send all the amperage you want to the battery, but if the sent voltage does not exceed the receiving voltage, no electrons will pass on.

but this is a rare case. usually it puts out too much when it fails, which causes battery failure. Yours doesn't put out enough, which is usually a sign that one of the stator windings (there are three of them, it's a 70 Volt 3 phase AC generator) is shorted or malfunctioning.
 
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