Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

Battery

2K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  The Nimble Ninja 
#1 ·
’ve been having starting issues with my bike which only does a few miles a week then left on an Oxford solariser charger. The bolts are normally at around 13.6v (light dependent)but decided today to check it and battery voltage is only 11.6v... I’ve plugged in my optimate and save mode was on and now full charge. So firstly seems the solar charger ain’t doing its job and am I possibly looking at a new battery as it’s only 2 year old?
 
#11 · (Edited)
Definitely your stator. When engine is running, battery should read at least 14 volts. I'm 100% positive that's a bad stator. Your battery is fine.

When mine went bad, I ordered an oem one. You can find them cheaper but for piece of mind, I went oem. You'll also need to buy some Honda Bond 4 liquid gasket.
Follow these instructions:
Remove the 8 bolts holding the stator cover in. You'll likely need a rubber hammer to loosen the magnetic grip helping to hold the cover in place. Just give it a few taps while pulling on the cover until it breaks loose from the crankcase. Remove the old gasket from the cover and crank case using fine grit sandpaper. Remove the bad stator, install the new one. Before applying the new gasket, wipe down mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol. There's a pattern you need to follow for the gasket application. I'll include a photo showing where to apply the Honda bond and where not to. After carefully applying the gasket, carefully line up the cover to the crank case, keep in mind the magnets will pull the cover to the crank case so if it's a little off, take the rubber mallet/hammer and give it a tap in the proper direction if needed until it's perfectly lined up. I think the torque for those 8 bolts is 9 ft lbs. Allow that gasket to dry 24 hours. I got impatient and waited roughly 8 hours and developed a leak so I had to do it all over again. Once completely dried, fire up the bike and your battery should now read 14+ volts.
If you need help, don't be hesitant to ask.
 
#13 ·
Hey thanks mate,really appreciate your help and time,I’m going to replace the regulator anyway,but currently sourcing an oem used and tested stator. Seems easy enough I hope with your instructions I’ll be fine,I’ve just got to make sure I put the correct amount of sealant on the joining faces. Is sealant needed where the rubber grommet/wires leave the casing?
 
#15 ·
One bit of advice that would of saved me some grief the first time I did one. After you remove the engine cover that holds the stator (this will be magnetized so after you remove all the bolts you'll have to do some gentle prying) take a picture of it. That way you'll have a reference of how the little brackets all go and how the wire that leaves the case routes.

First one I did I routed the wire not exactly correctly and when the stator started spinning it knicked the wire and ruined the new stator in short order.

Also, use loctite on the bolts that mount the stator onto the case cover.

And don't scrimp on cleaning the old gasket material off the case. Clean surfaces go a long way to stopping any leaks.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top