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Discussion Starter #1
So none of the old threads have a final solution posted from the original poster. All the talk is that this problem is either the battery or the regulator/rectifier. Who has fixed this problem on their bike and what did you do to solve the problem?

I dont ever remember having this issue when my bike was a street bike but I do have it now that it is a track bike. I've tried 2 new batteries, and I have the '05 R/R installed on my bike. No dice, the problem still exists. When it is up around the temperature where the fan will kick on (224*) and you shut the bike off, it wont want to crank over and start until the temp drops back to around 200*. It just acts like you have a dead battery when it tries to crank but the battery is fully charged and good. Is this a starter motor issue?
 

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I'm guessing that when you say it acts like the battery is dead... you mean when you push the starter button... the starter motor cannot turn the engine.

Check the voltage of the battery while trying to start it when it's hot. If the voltage drops like 10V or below while pushing the starter button... then it's the battery.

If the bat stays around 12V... then it is either the starter motor or a wiring connection. Pull the tank and check the voltage at the starter motor while starting... If the bat is 12V and you're only getting 10V at the starter... it's the wires. If you're getting 12V at the starter too... it's the starter.

So then either the starter doesn't have enough power ( its worn out) or your engine is shot cause there is something dragging when the motor is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, it's only when the starter button is pushed. Thats my next step taking the voltage at the starter itself.
Engine should be fine. It will bump start just fine when it's hot. Just the starter doesn't want to crank. I do have like 56,000 miles on her so it may be time to rebuild the starter motor.
 

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First step... check the voltage at the battery while trying to start it. Then on the the starter itself. No sence on pulling the tank off if it may be the battery.

I know you said the battery was good but it's better to go from the start to the end one step at a time. And we need to know the batt voltage then the voltage at the starter itself to know about the wiring. ie battery could be 14V and at the starter it could be 11V 11V at the starter should be sufficient if the Bat is 11V under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Go figure that with all the fairings off the bike and testing this, it does not want to act up. More tests to be conducted.
What are the chances of maybe getting two batteries that are sub par? On the tests I have done so far the voltages seem to be inline to what you posted.

I'll mess with it some more and report back shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, voltage at the battery hot or cold is 13.2 volts and 12.6 while cranking.
Voltage at the starter is 11.6 volts.hot or cold.
What I noticed is that with the fairings off the bike while doing these tests, the bike will crank slower when hot but is not acting like it does when the fairings are on the bike and there is a bit more heat trapped. With the fairings on the bike the battery acts dead when cranking when its hot. With the fairings off, it just cranks slower but still starts and does not reset the instrument cluster. :dontknow:

How would I test the starter relay?
 

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Ok. so when cranking the bike... you have 12.6 on the Bat and 11.6 at the starter. The wires are causing a 1v drop. That sounds like a bit much but I don't think its causing your problem.

But when the bike is acting up... the cluster resets after you try to start it. That is useful info. (very)

Ok a couple of possibilities and I don't know which I think is more likely.

1) Any battery will check good if you taet the voltage with no load on it. ( load meaning something that draws current) Once you put a load on it... you can see if the battery is really good or not. Every battery will drop in voltage with a load. even a new... perfect shape one. Since your checked 13.2 with no load and 12.6 with a pretty significant load... your battery is good. So one theory is the your starter motor could be bad and ( electric motors act differently when they're hot also) it could be putting such a load on the battery that the voltage drops to low to even power the cluster. However... that load would have to be so great to do that... it would probably burn the wires from the battery to the starter. You'd notice that.

2) Now that I wrote the first thing... I think this is a lot more likely to be the problem... A bad connection will cause a voltage drop also. If you hook up a wire with like 20 little strands of wire in it and somehow you only get one of those strands connected... with a small load, everything will work just fine. With a larger load... that one strand cannot pass that much current. The voltage will drop cause that one strand is acting like a resistor... resistors get hot and that strand will get hot. Both will act the same.

Now that I have typed way more than I wanted to... I think you have a bad connection somewhere. Bad enough that when you hit the starter button... the voltage in the bike's system is to low to even run the cluster. The only thing that is throwing me off is, " why only when the bike is hot?" My only guess for now is that In the pits... you prob start your bike before you get on it. On the track while they're cleaning up a crash... you're on the bike when you start it. I don't think the bike being hot is the variable... I think you on it is. and now... the fairing on it is. I'd check the ground wires on the left side of the bike. ( bunch of green wires bolted to the frame) and see if that is loose.

Sorry for the 5 page paper but the more I wrote... the more time I had to think. Try looking at that and next time... I'll try to keep it short. Peace!
 

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One more thing... this has to be a bad connection close to the battery. A bad connection at the starter motor will not affect the cluster or a bad connection to the headlight will not affect the cluster.

Check the connections to the battery...maybe even pull on the wires and see if the bike shuts off or anything. Lastly... the Neg cable from the battery connects to the frame I believe under the tank/seat area... it attaches to the main frame, not the sub frame. Make sure that wire is tight too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had double checked all the green ground wires on the left side of the bike and they are all good and tight. I'll go back and start at the battery and double check those connections and clean up any of the contact points with a wire brush just to make sure it is all getting the best connection it can. The ground connection from the battery to the frame I have not double checked yet.
The 11.6 volt reading at the starter was the lowest voltage shown when I cranked over the motor. It jumped between 11.6 and 12 volts but since the 11.6 was the first voltage read as it cranked over, that what I put in the earlier post.
 

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This may be way off base here, but your problem is very reminiscent of a starting problem I had with the family car one time (Oldsmobile). The thing started like a champ when cold, you could drive it for days on end but if you shut it off and tried to re-start it when hot...well, it would not fire. Through much testing and replacing of parts, it turned out to be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. (I don't know if bikes have this sensor). When the CPS was hot, it would not send a signal to the ECM, but once it cooled down, it would start.
 

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Those oldsmobiles have way too many electronic problems. Had an 89 for my first car and replaced most of the electronic system. Starter, MAPsensor, Coil pack, CPS, fuel pump. Died on me every time i left town.

Anyhow, good luck with figuring out the problem. Voltage at the starter doesn't seem rediculously low, a little maybe but the heat and massive inrush current the starter draws could explain that. Electric motors suck mad juice upon start up, especially such a high torque motor, so you're going to have some voltage drop almost no matter what. I'd look more at the starter motor itself and possibly the reg/rect(did you order the 05/06 rect. new or buy used?) seeing as how you've pretty much ruled out the electrical connections and, none of the testing you've done has come back with conclusive results.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Those oldsmobiles have way too many electronic problems. Had an 89 for my first car and replaced most of the electronic system. Starter, MAPsensor, Coil pack, CPS, fuel pump. Died on me every time i left town.

Anyhow, good luck with figuring out the problem. Voltage at the starter doesn't seem rediculously low, a little maybe but the heat and massive inrush current the starter draws could explain that. Electric motors suck mad juice upon start up, especially such a high torque motor, so you're going to have some voltage drop almost no matter what. I'd look more at the starter motor itself and possibly the reg/rect(did you order the 05/06 rect. new or buy used?) seeing as how you've pretty much ruled out the electrical connections and, none of the testing you've done has come back with conclusive results.

The '05 R/R I got was used from another board member here. I believe the R/R is good and think that with the heat generated and the placement of where the starter is on these bikes that it is possable that it over heats a bit. I'm going to try another starter and see if that helps the problem any.
 

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i had the same problem last year with my '06. All i did was take off the wires at the starter relay, clean everything up really good, used scotch brite on the terminals, and sprayed the terminals with some battery terminal protectant. Never had any problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, new starter motor installed, all connections cleaned with a wire brush and di-electric grease put on the connections. I ran out of water wetter mix so I'll have to mix more up tomorrow and then I'll test it all and see if it is any better.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, the bike is completly back together, fairings and all. I heat the bike up as before to simulate just getting off the track, shut it down, wait 30 seconds, and she fires right back up (unlike before). So I'm trhinking that the old starter motor would not work properly once it was heat saturated. Maybe the brushes are getting a bit worn and with the extra heat it just wouldn't have enough to crank over.
 
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