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Discussion Starter #1
So I see the dozens of threads about bikes not wanting to start but my problem is the complete opposite. My bike fires up fine but when I ready to park it the darn thing wont turn off with the key turned to the off position. I can even lock the steering column and take the key out completely and the bike will continue to run with no gauge cluster on. The engine will shut off if I flip the kill switch but then the gauge cluster stays lit even with the key removed. So right now to get the bike completely off I have to turn the key to the off positon to get the gauge cluster to go off and then trip the kickstand sensor by either puttin the kickstand down while in gear or putting it in gear with the kickstand already down. And when the bike is completely off and I flip the kill switch without the key in the gauge cluster turns on. So, any ideas as to what kind of electrical gremlin im dealing with? I'm thinking a bad ignition switch...
 

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ANy thing change?

Sounds like a short some where...
 
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What mods or maintenance have you done to your bike recently? Any signs of it trying to be started by someone other than yourself?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No change. The only things done to the bike recently was a fork job and a Motodynamic Sequential Tail installed a few weeks ago. After hours of more searching I've found a thread of this happening to one other person and it appeared he had a ground loose near the fuse box that might have contained the engine stop relay? I'm going to look into that first...
 

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all of the problems i had recently with my bike and the electrical system boiled down to a faulty ground wire.

no offense, but your problem is hilarious. you should make a vid of it before you fix it.

back to point, like D said, you will def want to go over anything that you have changed or modified. check for faulty grounds, and shorts.

goodluck man.
 
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No change. The only things done to the bike recently was a fork job and a Motodynamic Sequential Tail installed a few weeks ago. After hours of more searching I've found a thread of this happening to one other person and it appeared he had a ground loose near the fuse box that might have contained the engine stop relay? I'm going to look into that first...
Check your grounds and anything on the front of the bike that was messed with when doing the forks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
all of the problems i had recently with my bike and the electrical system boiled down to a faulty ground wire.

no offense, but your problem is hilarious. you should make a vid of it before you fix it.

back to point, like D said, you will def want to go over anything that you have changed or modified. check for faulty grounds, and shorts.

goodluck man.
Yeah its kinda ironic and may be funny sometime in the future but with this on top of my girls car giving us issues and me ripping that piece apartment its becoming quite annoying...heh Will check on grounds and wiring tomorrow when I have some light...
 

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yea elec problems suck, make you pull your hair out.
hopefully tomorow 'light' will be shed and you will figure it out.
 

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Electrical problems are easy! Get a couple tools (multimeter is your FRIEND) and you can troubleshoot nearly any electrical issue on your bike - the same can't be said for many mechanical issues.

For most years, the two things that'll trigger your engine kill relay are the kill switch and bank angle sensor (BAS, as it's often referred to).
If your engine won't die, try pulling out the plug that goes to your right clipon, and that should tell you if your kill switch has an issue (engine should die if you pull this plug).
Otherwise, relays have been known to stick closed, but usually only if you're cranking lots of current through the contacts. Basically the only load this'll drive is the fuel pump, a couple stages downstream, so I doubt that's it.

I doubt it's a short, as usually this means shorting to ground, but it is remotely possible that 12V is stuck on a wire somewhere.
Pull out the plug for your right clipon!
If that doesn't work, get a wiring diagram, we here can walk you through it
 

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^^^ Usually it would be uncommon for a sticky relay to be carrying low current but as it has probably had a fair number of cycles put through it already there is probably some metal transfer between the contacts making it stick a lot easier...

Sticky engine stop relay, to check - give it a good tap with the handle of a screwdriver and it will turn off.

New relay and your problem is sorted...
 

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I know about having electrical problems...... just blame it on the kickstand.
Nah, your problem wasn't the kickstand...

As D said...

...I too have this problem sometimes, and it's a simple fix. The problem is the nut that connects the screw on the right side to the seat...
:drunk::drunk:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
^^^ Usually it would be uncommon for a sticky relay to be carrying low current but as it has probably had a fair number of cycles put through it already there is probably some metal transfer between the contacts making it stick a lot easier...

Sticky engine stop relay, to check - give it a good tap with the handle of a screwdriver and it will turn off.

New relay and your problem is sorted...
Where might the engine stop relay be on a 05-06 model?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Left hand side under the ram air cover.
Well there are 3 relays there. I know one is for the radiator fan and not sure what the other is for but I tapped them and the bike shut off. So I replaced them with spare relays I have from another wiring harness that I have but the problem continues. But on one of the wires coming from one of the relays I noticed I could see the actual wire and it was pinched a little. Not sure if it is the cause or not but still looking into it...
 

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i see youre still hunting that down,
last time i had a grimlin issue Nico helped out a lot,
so listen up,
good luck again
 

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if tapping the relay helped, this tells me that the relay is stuck

its possible both relays could be bad ... ooor, there is some voltage bleed some where ... last time i saw this happen is indeed was the ground point where like 2893648326487236482364876234876324872364 grounds make contact on the frame.
 
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Well there are 3 relays there. I know one is for the radiator fan and not sure what the other is for but I tapped them and the bike shut off. So I replaced them with spare relays I have from another wiring harness that I have but the problem continues. But on one of the wires coming from one of the relays I noticed I could see the actual wire and it was pinched a little. Not sure if it is the cause or not but still looking into it...
A pinched wire could cause the problem. It's possible that when you tapped the relays, it was the wire from the relay (the pinched one) having a temporary open or even shorting out which could cause the issue. More likely that the relays are bad, but not impossible for it to be the wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well im still working on it. Switched the relays around and cleaned all the contacts and that cured the problem for about 5 times turning on and shutting the engine of then the issue continued. Took kill switch apart and cleaned those terminals and that made the issue go away for a few more cycles before continuing again. Does anyone know what that third relay is for? This problem actually killed my battery because even though the bike appeared to be completely off I think the fuel pump was still sucking juice from the battery because I went to leave for work and turned it on but didnt here it prime and I got the infamous clicking sound from a dead battery so had to push start it. On the upside this 40 dollar ebay battery seems to be holding up quite well and seemingly better then the 140ish stock Yuasa but this is becoming quite irritating so I have decided to try messing with it a bit more and if it doesnt change then I'm thinking of swapping out the entire wire harness with the spare that I have and go from there...
 

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Left relay is Fuel cutoff relay.
Middle is Fan control relay.
Right is Engine stop relay.

The Fuel cutoff relay is fed by the engine stop relay, so if one's sticking it could be making the other stick too.
However, you also got it to work by cleaning the kill switch. SO I'm guessing it's something common between them all: This leaves the fuel pump or the ECU, or you just have wires touching in the harness that shouldn't be.

If something is draining your battery, either the fuel pump is sucking juice (which is a BAD thing since your engine's not running, and the fuel has nowhere to go), or a wire is (partially) shorted.
If the pump is running all night with the engine off, it'll probably overheat, which might short it out internally. It's got a 20A fuse feeding it, which is plenty to weld together relay contacts without popping after repeated cycles.

Either way, the increased current draw when your relays and kill switch turn on are causing arcing/heating which can weld them together temporarily, and cause all these issues.

At least that's my best guess.
Have you tried holy water?
 
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