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When I am about to downshift, I grab the front brake lever with my middle and ring finger and roll the throttle with my thumb and pointer. Within the first 20-30 minutes of my ride this is easy, but after that point my blips become somewhat inconsistent (vary between too little or too much). I'm guessing that this happens because my palms/wrists get tired after that duration of riding, and perhaps because I have smalllish hands. Does this fatigue go away after awhile? This is my first sportbike, past was an ex500 and I didn't have any problems with that because I didn't have to worry about the front brake being touchy :)

What techniques do you guys use for clutched downshifting?

Your suggestions are welcome!
 

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I brake with just my pointing finger but I have big hands. You should always cover the brake with the pointing finger to reduce reaction time IMO. Maybe try using the pointing and middle fingers to brake while controlling the throttle, that is the norm for alot of people. You may also be getting a little carpal tunnel syndrome causing the inconsistent feel. There are some stretching exersizes you can do before riding to help stave off carpal tunnel syndrome if that is a prob. Downshifting is a whole other story, do what your confortable with there.
 

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I typically blip as well, but there are more than a few track riders / racers in my area who don't blip at all. They just gradually feather the clutch back in. I've experimented with this a bit on my last track day and had good results. (But I still blip out of habit.)

Something to consider.
 

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Suggest that you look at the position of your levers on the clip ons. I've never had a bike that fit me from the factory. They all get a lever fitting session. Normally, the levers are set too high, causing stress on the wrist and too big a stretch to the bar. Loosen the nuts, and drop the levers to a comfortable position. Just make sure it doesn't interfere on full lock. Take time to adjust your bike to you. You wouldn't drive a car without adjusting seat/mirrors etc, would you?
 

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one question why do you blip the throttle befor downshifting?
 

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I only blip it downshifting from 2nd to 1st. Other than that I just downshift. I actually let the engine do about 90% of the braking until i'm in first gear. Then I give the brakes a little squeeze.
 

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To match the engine revs with the speed of the rear wheel as you move to a lower gear. For a given speed, the lower gear will require higher revs than the higher gear (obviously) so without a blip, the lower engine revs will cause the engine to suddenly slow the rear wheel. If this effect causes the rear wheel to spin slower than it needs to for the road speed, the tyre will chatter and bounce, or simply lock up momentarily. Less control, and a hell of a strain through the chain.
 

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westhondapons600rr said:
Suggest that you look at the position of your levers on the clip ons. I've never had a bike that fit me from the factory. They all get a lever fitting session. Normally, the levers are set too high, causing stress on the wrist and too big a stretch to the bar. Loosen the nuts, and drop the levers to a comfortable position. Just make sure it doesn't interfere on full lock. Take time to adjust your bike to you. You wouldn't drive a car without adjusting seat/mirrors etc, would you?
is there anywhere that I can find IN DEPTH instructions/info on HOW TO do this? thanks for offering up some good info, I know our bikes are 'tweakable' in many ways i just dont know HOW to do it. :)
 

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yeah, thats a good point, ive never raced or rode extremely hard so usually i wouldnt have to blip it but that would work
 

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is there anywhere that I can find IN DEPTH instructions/info on HOW TO do this? thanks for offering up some good info, I know our bikes are 'tweakable' in many ways i just dont know HOW to do it.
Real easy, guys. Look at the clip on. There are 2 bolts inboard of the switchgear on either one, one above the other. These, when slackened, allow the lever assembly to pivot on the clip on up or down. It's the same on both bars. Just slacken them off a little, move the brake/clutch lever, and experiment. In my experience, the levers are always set too high.

This works for almost all sports bikes. The mounting system is the same.

If you have a problem, pm me and I'll drop yo some "how to" photo's. But it really is that easy. Just check that the new lever position doesn't obstruct your steering at full lock.
 

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westhondapons600rr said:
To match the engine revs with the speed of the rear wheel as you move to a lower gear. For a given speed, the lower gear will require higher revs than the higher gear (obviously) so without a blip, the lower engine revs will cause the engine to suddenly slow the rear wheel. If this effect causes the rear wheel to spin slower than it needs to for the road speed, the tyre will chatter and bounce, or simply lock up momentarily. Less control, and a hell of a strain through the chain.
Well put :!: :!:

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so i've been trying this technique, since i dont have a slipper clutch on my 05..

can someone tell me how it is done correctly? like a step by step guide? :D

does everything have to be done simoultaniously?

- brake
- downshift
- pull clutch in/let go
- blipping the throttle

all at the same time?
how far does the throttle need to be pulled back?

thx in advance guys..
 

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Westhondapons600rr explained exactly what I do. Rev up to match rpms shift down and release clutch. Nice and smooth and let the engine wine down using less hand and foot brake

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I started out going from 6th to 5th on the highway, no brake just going back and fourth between gears on long rides. Its different for everyone, people use all sorts of finger combinations.

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