Check it out tim, there's a function on the board called "search." It in the upper right hand corner. It will heed MANY threads regarding your very inquiry. Good luck Timmy
BMC vs K&N
whos used both? any differences? i just bought my first one and went with bmc (hasnt came in yet) on advice from friends, both ZX guys though. rather hear from personal experience of you guys.
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Let's make it very easy. There is virtually no performance gain to be had by using anything other than stock. You gain the ability to clean and re-use the filter.
I just change the stock ones.
And please use the search.
I just change the stock ones.
And please use the search.
well aware of the seach function. searching simply "bmc" yielded zero results for me. thanks for the response and explanation though. much obliged.
Is it a race filter or OEM replacement? Race filters are designed to take in 25% more air than other filters so it does help with performance. I wouldn't do it unless I had other mods like an exhaust, pc or bazzaz and a custom A/F tune.Let's make it very easy. There is virtually no performance gain to be had by using anything other than stock. You gain the ability to clean and re-use the filter.
I just change the stock ones.
And please use the search.
http://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm
This guy actually ran a stock filter vs an aftermarket filter comparison on a dyno and the aftermarket definitely showed an increase in performance
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/5044-stock-air-filter-vs-bmc-race-air-filter.html
I'm running the bmc race filter with my akra and pcIII. It's honestly not a noticeable difference.
i've got a pc3 with a custom tune, diy velocity stacks, bmc race filter, and a leo slip on. i made an extra 7hp over stock...
i bought the bmc filter just because there were a lot of people saying that the kn filter didn't fit as well in the airbox. the general consensus i found was that the bmc filter fits closer to OEM fitment.
i bought the bmc filter just because there were a lot of people saying that the kn filter didn't fit as well in the airbox. the general consensus i found was that the bmc filter fits closer to OEM fitment.
I use a k&n for the sole purpose of cleaning. If you don't live in a dusty area then stay with stock. I just like being able to clean it everytime I do an oil change. Kind of a piece of mind thing more than anything else.
This is the truth.Let's make it very easy. There is virtually no performance gain to be had by using anything other than stock. You gain the ability to clean and re-use the filter.
I just change the stock ones.
And please use the search.
I needed a new filter so I figured I'd get a reusable one. I "SEARCHED" and found that many people have problems with the K & N not fitting right and/or falling apart. I wound up getting a BMC race filter. I just cleaned and reoiled it over the weekend and it looked as good as new when I was ready to reinstall it. As far as performance, the race version flows better so with a PC tune it'll prob get a quarter to a half a horse (NOT noticeable) gain but I can't really prove that due to not having dyno sheets before and after.
I use stock on the endurance race bike - I think they filter the dust & dirt out betterLet's make it very easy. There is virtually no performance gain to be had by using anything other than stock. You gain the ability to clean and re-use the filter.
I just change the stock ones.
I want the engine to last as long as possible
I didn't see the dyno charts in that post (image may be blocked at my work)Is it a race filter or OEM replacement? Race filters are designed to take in 25% more air than other filters so it does help with performance. I wouldn't do it unless I had other mods like an exhaust, pc or bazzaz and a custom A/F tune.
http://www.knfilters.com/filter_facts.htm
This guy actually ran a stock filter vs an aftermarket filter comparison on a dyno and the aftermarket definitely showed an increase in performance
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-fireblade/5044-stock-air-filter-vs-bmc-race-air-filter.html
I would hope they were run on the same day, same conditions because dyno results can vary widely with different atmospheric conditions - temp, humidity, air density (barometric pressure) as well as tire condition & air pressure
My guess is the other mods made more of a difference than just the air filteri've got a pc3 with a custom tune, diy velocity stacks, bmc race filter, and a leo slip on. i made an extra 7hp over stock...
i bought the bmc filter just because there were a lot of people saying that the kn filter didn't fit as well in the airbox. the general consensus i found was that the bmc filter fits closer to OEM fitment.
The restriction to air flow is the porting in the head
To take advantage of higher flow air filter you need to do some head work.
Be advised the more you 'hot rod' the engine the less reliable it becomes and the closer the service intervals become
That's why we run stock engines in our club endurance racing - we would rather have one that lasts the whole season w/o having the spend $2,500-$3,000 on a top end rebuild
FWIW - hold your after market air filter up to the sun & look thru the filter
If you see any tiny dots of sunlight or light spots (esp. noticeable with the race filters)
That means dirt & dust can get thru the filter in those light spots
Try the same test with a stock air filter
What do you see ?
Dust & dirt act like fine sand paper inside your engine
Do your best to keep it out
If you see any tiny dots of sunlight or light spots (esp. noticeable with the race filters)
That means dirt & dust can get thru the filter in those light spots
Try the same test with a stock air filter
What do you see ?
Dust & dirt act like fine sand paper inside your engine
Do your best to keep it out
i tried to change my oil yesterday and I could remove my k&n oil filter for the life of me.
my friend tried as well but it wouldnt budge..
tried a little wd40 around the seam but didnt seem to do anything.
we didnt strip the 17mm nut on the top, but this thing just wont budge, and I cant fit a torch wrench in there either..
also tried that rubber strap wrench thing too
anyone have ideas?
my friend tried as well but it wouldnt budge..
tried a little wd40 around the seam but didnt seem to do anything.
we didnt strip the 17mm nut on the top, but this thing just wont budge, and I cant fit a torch wrench in there either..
also tried that rubber strap wrench thing too
anyone have ideas?
Well you might have to use the old screwdriver trick if you have no other choice
my friend mentioned that, but would you be able to clarify the screwdriver trick for me?
I thought I might just leave it til i get my tires changed and have them take it off @ the mechanic or sth..
I thought I might just leave it til i get my tires changed and have them take it off @ the mechanic or sth..
The screwdriver trick is to drive a screwdriver through the oil filter and use it to spin it out but if your bolt isn't bad i don't see the need. Can you get a "cheater bar" on the end of the wrench?
sorry for being a newb at this, i changed my oil twice...
whats a cheater bar..?
whats a cheater bar..?
When you have the wrench on the nut can you get like a pipe or i use an old holo'd out mag light to slide over the wrench to get more torque.
When you installed the filter did you tighten it down? (more than hand tight)
When you installed the filter did you tighten it down? (more than hand tight)
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