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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Custom HID Delay Start Guide

After installation of the HIDs and having the them turn on before the bike starts is annoying. Also, as the bike starts, the headlights turn off and then back on. This is not good for HIDs and is known as "Hot Re-strike." Your igniter will end its life pretty quickly this way.

Ahh yes, there is already a solution: A Delayed Relay. But wait, it cost an extra $40! Im not here to ruin anyone's business, but you can make a circuit that will do the exact same thing for about $10, even less if you already have spare parts laying around like me.

Difficulty: 4/10
Time: 10-15 minutes


Note this project is not that simple, but if you know how to solder and read simple schematics, this is cake. And for those of you who just want to explore into the unknown, this is for you too.


Needed items

1 x 12V 40A High Current Auto Relay
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

1 x N-Channel Power MOSFET (any will do)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062618

2 x 1/2W 150 kohm resistors

1 x 220uF 25V electrolytic capacitor (needs to be 25V or greater)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103623


Some male/female connectors for ease of connecting wires. Be sure to get the 10-12 AWG flat buttends (usually yellow at home depot)

Some 12-14 AWG insulated copper wires.


I know RadioShack is a bit expensive for these little things, but I used them as an image reference. You can buy them anywhere that is cheap. The capacitor value can be increased or decreased to increase or decrease the time delay, respectively. For the value I used in the circuit, the time delay is about 14-15 seconds. Double your capacitance, you will double your delay. I dont recommend decreasing the resistor values as the power dissipation will go up exponentially. You dont want to burn holes in your fairings now.

Heres the wiring diagram:



Make sure that the positive lead of the capacitor is on the gate side. The negative needs to be connected to ground. If you don't follow this, you will have exploding capacitors. The capacitor usually has a white line stripe or some marking indicating the negative lead.



The MOSFET has 3 pins: Gate, Drain, and Source. For this to work, it needs to be connected like the schematic above. The MOSFET you get will look like this:



There are 3 pins and they are as labeled. Connect these pins to the correct nodes.

Relays are usually not polarized (no negative or positive) so you can connect them in any orientation. If they are, then connect the (+) to the 12V and the (-) to the drain of the MOSFET. Now here comes the important part: connect your (+) ballast wire to the output of the relay contact. The (-) wire from the ballast should be connected to ground. If you dont get it, study the picture more. If you still dont get it, close this page and go buy a pre-built delay relay.

If you buy the radioshack relay, your pin configuration will look like this:



85 & 86 are the coil pins. Connect these between the (+) 12V and the drain of the MOSFET

87 & 30 are the contact pins. Connect these between the (+) 12V and the (+) ballast wire.

Heres the complete circuit:

 

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i was looking into some sort of delay setup and ran across a schematic for one that would turn the hid's on only after the motor is turned over...meaning, if you have the key turned to acc position for any amount of time, the hid's will not come on..unlike a delay relay. it will ignite after the motor starts.
i'm not on my computer where i stored the schematic..but it uses a relay and diodes and tapped into one of the alternator wire along with some other wires. i found it on another cbr forum during my search, but it was for a f4i bike..i'm thinking it should be the same as 600rr though. this will be a cool thing if we can get this done..do you think it's possible?
 

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I just put a toggle on my bike, makes it so much better, you can leave it off while waiting for warmup, and just flip it on before you ride. Its even better for your battery and charging system, and its more simple, and costs about 5 dollars for a switch and maybe another 5 bux for connectors and wire if you don't already have that in your toolbox

heres a link
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=119018
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it might be possible, i dont have the wiring diagram of the alternator/charging circuit. Maybe I can look into that. As for a toggle switch, I thought of using one at first, but if I ever forget to turn it on, I will get a ticket. We all know FL laws suck ass!!!!
 

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I just put a toggle on my bike, makes it so much better, you can leave it off while waiting for warmup, and just flip it on before you ride. Its even better for your battery and charging system, and its more simple, and costs about 5 dollars for a switch and maybe another 5 bux for connectors and wire if you don't already have that in your toolbox

heres a link
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=119018

better on your battery? You arent drawing more power than you regulary would if you had the stock bulbs back in...they draw 35w, and if you are runniing the 35w HID's then theres no excess power being drawn..but i see where it could be better, its not drawing any power on initial start up though..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
better on your battery? You arent drawing more power than you regulary would if you had the stock bulbs back in...they draw 35w, and if you are runniing the 35w HID's then theres no excess power being drawn..but i see where it could be better, its not drawing any power on initial start up though..
I think its better on your battery only if the engine is already running. The initial surge on start-up can be quite large. With the charging system running, its less strain on the battery. but as far as power savings go, you wont save anymore power by installing a switch, unless you keep it off.
 

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By less draw I mean startup. When you start the bike with the lights off, it fires up faster. My battery is almost in need of replacement, and if i try to start it with the headlights on it trys to turn but gets weaker and goes flat and I have to jump it, because the ballast ignitors on initial surge can even make the LCD dim on the gauges. But with the lights off, you get only the fuel pump and LED tails and plate light on. So it has saved me a few Jumpstarts or bumpstarts. Without the initial firing of the lights, theres a lil extra juice to start, and it idles smoother faster. It takes a minute off the warmup time when the revs drop and smoothes out

And I live in cali, and the laws here are even more strict than Florida, its kinda Nazi-ish here when it comes to car and bike mods law. They try to give you a headlight out ticket because the low and high beams are different housings. Or if you ride with high beams on they try to ticket you for blinding people. And so you dont forget, use a lit switch, so the lil LED you can quick glance down before you ride. It all becomes a startup sequence you automatically do, like helmet, gloves, jacket, kill switch, ignition, warmup, kickstand, headlamp, GO!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well no switch is one less thing to check, it depends on how picky the driver is. I thought about a 555 timer, but then it would need more components and youll still need a pass transistor to pass all that current. I tried to keep things simple. A relay will not increase the life of the ballast. Youll need a relay with a delayed start. Watdawag, you are correct when you push the start button, the lights go out and then refire, which is very stressful on the ballast and igniters, especially when the bulb is already hot.
 

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been running HID's for over a year now w/o a relay w/ delayed start. one of my lights wasn't functioning the other day but "fixed itself" after a few hours - probably when I shut off the bike and started it again. sign of malfunction/wearing down?
 

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what if you didn't install the HIDs on your bike and have no idea which wires are to the ballasts and whatnot...

Should i just order the tripage kit?
its not hard to tell which is for the hid kit and what is the bikes wires. if you never worked around stuff like this. you might have trouble with tripage since his requires cutting as well
 

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its not hard to tell which is for the hid kit and what is the bikes wires. if you never worked around stuff like this. you might have trouble with tripage since his requires cutting as well
You don't have to cut anything if you get our hid delay.

Take your positive and negative wires to your HID and tap into the sheathed side of the delay,
Take the unsheathed sides of the delay and tap into the low beam plug on your bike, done. No cutting. We supply the spade connections and the butt splices to connect everything. T

Here is how you will hook it up to your HID's. Just wire it inline.
 

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Last night I came up with two designs that will leave your lights off while in neutral or the stand is down. with just a relay.

I think the stand down option is better so that you will not have the split second of off time while you are going from first to second or second to first.

I can do a write up if everyone is interested.
 

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Last night I came up with two designs that will leave your lights off while in neutral or the stand is down. with just a relay.

I think the stand down option is better so that you will not have the split second of off time while you are going from first to second or second to first.

I can do a write up if everyone is interested.
oh i am. just using a relay seems to be alot easier. i have an idea of how you will have it wired but a write up sounds good. list parts used be good :)
 

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You don't have to cut anything if you get our hid delay.

Take your positive and negative wires to your HID and tap into the sheathed side of the delay,
Take the unsheathed sides of the delay and tap into the low beam plug on your bike, done. No cutting. We supply the spade connections and the butt splices to connect everything. T

Here is how you will hook it up to your HID's. Just wire it inline.
sorry to miss inform. i knew it required some type of tapping into wires. im sure if anyone that got products from you will get 110% help when it comes time to do the install. too many good things about you and cant go wrong with your products aswell. :five:
 

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Not a problem, just wanted to make it clear. T
 

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been running HID's for over a year now w/o a relay w/ delayed start. one of my lights wasn't functioning the other day but "fixed itself" after a few hours - probably when I shut off the bike and started it again. sign of malfunction/wearing down?
YES. Mine just began doing what you described when I put my bike in storage. Im putting in a toggle switch to rid of the problem and i'll let everyone know how it works; a tad bit simpler than most have envisioned. My ignitier will get the bulb going, but wont ignite after a quick shut off/turn on such as what happens when the bike is started.

BLAH... This is when I say.. "Shoulda done it then.." So for those of you itching for an HID kit, vouche for the extra work/cost and hook up a proper setup with a toggle or delay.
 

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since putting the cutoff in my bike, I haven't had to jump, charge, or bump start the bike. I tested the voltage on it after not riding it for about 2 weeks, and I really haven't been on it much the last 2 months, and my battery was at 13.4v after sitting, and it fires up super quick, and my battery has actually improved because I let it idle til its totally warmed up. NO misfires of the ballasts, igniter is much faster warming up the low beam(time shortened to full brightness). Any switch or delay is the perfect tiny detail when you have HID's especially.
 
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