Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone! New member here, still learning the ropes. Any tips feel free to share!

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2008 600rr from Private Seller. Bike currently has 400km. Yup 400km. Seen it personally.

I do know the bike has been dropped by the first owner. And was going at least 10MPH because the right side engine case has a decent scrap. Enough to level out the smaller cap edge. (If that makes sense)
I know there has not been any service done on the bike. Apparently it was brought to a Honda dealer after it was dropped and they gave it the OK.

I'm currently talking with the 2nd owner who purchased About two years ago and lost interest.

Carfax comes up clean, but only shows one owner. And 6 registration renewals.

Anyone can help me out with things to look for? The chain is not rusted or dried out. Tires looks brand new. Forks aren't leaking. I'm going to double check about the rear subframe and forks by eye to make sure there both straight. Everything seems to check out.

I'm worried about its been sitting for basically 7-8 years. For the last two years it's been in an unheated garage.

Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,045 Posts
That's a long time to sit, and is worse mechanically than a bike with 10x the km's; so if the seller is trying to charge a premium for 'low miles', in this case the this is not a benefit but a detriment.

The tires are shot, rubber than has not be specifically stored can't be trusted.

The chain may be okay; not sure what time and no usage does to the sealed lubricant inside the rings. Any surface corrosion should just scrape off with some usage. The chain should be checked for hard spots once, then again after it has been run for 10kms or so.

Seals can dry out, not sure if non-usage hurries this process or not. I suppose if after fork compression there is no fluid on the stanchions, it is fine, but fork oil also does go bad, and any 2007-2012 bike should have had at least one fork service done by now (new fluid, seals.) Not as much mandatory for the shock but the same advice applies. Check the shock shaft for oil as well.

Not sure when oil becomes acidic; someone with more experience in that area will need to chime in. It's probably fine.

Coolant should be flushed. Since it has not been circulating through the block and coolant system, some nasty corrosion may have taken place. The thermostat and water impeller should all be checked for proper operation.

The battery is probably dead.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That's a long time to sit, and is worse mechanically than a bike with 10x the km's; so if the seller is trying to charge a premium for 'low miles', in this case the this is not a benefit but a detriment.

The tires are shot, rubber than has not be specifically stored can't be trusted.

The chain may be okay; not sure what time and no usage does to the sealed lubricant inside the rings. Any surface corrosion should just scrape off with some usage. The chain should be checked for hard spots once, then again after it has been run for 10kms or so.

Seals can dry out, not sure if non-usage hurries this process or not. I suppose if after fork compression there is no fluid on the stanchions, it is fine, but fork oil also does go bad, and any 2007-2012 bike should have had at least one fork service done by now (new fluid, seals.) Not as much mandatory for the shock but the same advice applies. Check the shock shaft for oil as well.

Not sure when oil becomes acidic; someone with more experience in that area will need to chime in. It's probably fine.

Coolant should be flushed. Since it has not been circulating through the block and coolant system, some nasty corrosion may have taken place. The thermostat and water impeller should all be checked for proper operation.

The battery is probably dead.
Thanks for your response! I agree with everything, new tires I figured I needed, even tho they look new. I'd like to ask how not being used would be a detriment mechanically?

He's definatly not charging a premium. It's 1500 under the book value.

It's mostly the fact it's been dropped that's worry some. I often over think things above and beyond a healthy limit.

I plan on buying it to keep and use for the next 3-5 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,045 Posts
Anything that's metal on metal will eventually gall (fuse) to varying degrees; anything that's meant to be moving but doesn't for long periods of time will experience some amount of friction welding. This can be inconsequential or it can be catastrophic, depending on the amount of galling and where it occurs. Temperature fluctuations add to this effect.

Unless you're talking about the tires, in which exposure to UV light and ozone simply breaks down the composition of the silicate in the tire, leaving it brittle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
You've got an 8 year old bike that's averaged 50km/yr during its life, EVERY rubber piece, every fluid, every filter, every moving part, every oriface, every passageway, every non moving part is suspect to some degree.

To start with on this bike you need to immediately replace:
Every fluid (oil, brake, fork, coolant)
Every filter (air and oil are the big ones, there will be others)
Tires
Battery

Things you need to check before riding the bike:
All rubber hoses (should be soft but not squishy)
All gaskets (should be leak free)
Fuel tank (look for rust)
Fuel pump (look for rust damage or old fuel damage)
Fuel injectors

Things you need to keep a close eye on for a while:
Gaskets
Hoses
Fluid levels
Seals
Shock
Fork seals

Low mileage, nicely priced vehicles are a score; extremely low mileage, almost brand new, older vehicles are not.

As stated its better for a vehicle to be used and driven than to sit and do nothing. This one also changed hands and sat through two owners (also crashed) are highly suspect. You have zero idea how well the bike was stored all this time other than the unheated garage which can be just fine but if it sat with fuel in it that was untreated you can have huge running issues.

Or not. It could run perfect and be as new and you have a score. Or could leak out of every seal that's hardened from age an not used. That's the crap shoot that is extremely low mileage vehicles.

Other than seeing the odometer, what proof do you are the mileage is that low? A new cluster is $300 and will have zero miles on it when installed.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Other than seeing the odometer, what proof do you are the mileage is that low? A new cluster is $300 and will have zero miles on it when installed.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Thanks for the Help! Is there anyway I can tell if the cluster has been replaced? Shouldn't the cluster has a serial number that matches the bike?
I do not see any signs of it being higher mileage.
Rad fins look perfect.
Tires look factory (will double check years on tires)
Brake discs aren't grooved and barely look used.
Inside the exhaust is clean with no soot.
Engine looks to have no leaks while it's been sitting. But it's hard to see much.
Gas had stabilizer put in it, but I will siphone most out and put fresh gas.

Anything else off hand I should be looking for as a red flag?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,754 Posts
Check the title or registration for the mileage. That still doesn't mean the odometer is correct, but if they show more than what the odometer does, it means the cluster has been replaced.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Check the title or registration for the mileage. That still doesn't mean the odometer is correct, but if they show more than what the odometer does, it means the cluster has been replaced.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Yea I've looking into the best I could. Carfax and all doesn't show mileage.
I will call DMV but don't think il get too far with them.

Just got back from the dealer where the bike was purchased. No service history. But was definatly purchased there and 2" lowering link was installed by that dealer.


Does anyone know a way to tell of gauge cluster was swapped out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,010 Posts
Does anyone know a way to tell of gauge cluster was swapped out?
There is not an easy way, all you can do is go by ow the deal looks and feels if the DMV doesn't show anything.

Just be careful. Lot's of times something super-low mileage is a draw, but on a bike it's not really. It's not a bad thing, it's just you need to go in knowing you will have to do a lot of looking to be sure it is what it is. Lot's of bikes get bought, lots of bikes get parked and never ridden. Finding a legit one for a worthwhile price is the hard part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Does anyone know a way to tell of gauge cluster was swapped out?
There is not an easy way, all you can do is go by ow the deal looks and feels if the DMV doesn't show anything.

Just be careful. Lot's of times something super-low mileage is a draw, but on a bike it's not really. It's not a bad thing, it's just you need to go in knowing you will have to do a lot of looking to be sure it is what it is. Lot's of bikes get bought, lots of bikes get parked and never ridden. Finding a legit one for a worthwhile price is the hard part.
Ok Great. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Well, Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions! I officially pulled the trigger on the bike today! Proud new owner of an 08 600rr.

Ever since laying eyes and ears on the 06-07 rr, I could only dream of owning one. Now it's reality! The bike was too clean to pass up. Here is a little teaser shot I took today. Weather was horrible. Will post up some more hopefully soon.

First thing will be an oil change, and coolant flush. Seeing as the mileage, I'm going to stick with Honda oil until about 1500-2000km. Then Il do another change and I suppose switch to full synthetic at that point.

Il be bringing it to the local Honda dealer later this week to see about the fork oil & seals, And a general full inspection.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
Grats man you did the right thing Summer slips away fast after July 4 th holiday. Grab some Q3's and dont forget I guess it still needs braking in better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
IMO, there are much better choices than Q3s. Especially if it's primarily a commuter bike. Q3s don't last worth a **** on the road. Pilot Road 4s do though, however. Even Pilot Power 3s, which is what I use, will last a good bit longer than Q3s. People run Q3s on purpose built track bikes, waste of money on a commuter, IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
nice it's the best bike deal you can get for the money. you gonna love it. I suggest buy or download a maintenance/repair manual, for future need. you will need to do fluid change for sure since it's been sitting. I would check the battery or replace with a new one, in case it gets bad while riding on the road especially out in the country middle of nowhere!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,784 Posts
That's a long time to sit, and is worse mechanically than a bike with 10x the km's; so if the seller is trying to charge a premium for 'low miles', in this case the this is not a benefit but a detriment.

The tires are shot, rubber than has not be specifically stored can't be trusted.

The chain may be okay; not sure what time and no usage does to the sealed lubricant inside the rings. Any surface corrosion should just scrape off with some usage. The chain should be checked for hard spots once, then again after it has been run for 10kms or so.

Seals can dry out, not sure if non-usage hurries this process or not. I suppose if after fork compression there is no fluid on the stanchions, it is fine, but fork oil also does go bad, and any 2007-2012 bike should have had at least one fork service done by now (new fluid, seals.) Not as much mandatory for the shock but the same advice applies. Check the shock shaft for oil as well.

Not sure when oil becomes acidic; someone with more experience in that area will need to chime in. It's probably fine.

Coolant should be flushed. Since it has not been circulating through the block and coolant system, some nasty corrosion may have taken place. The thermostat and water impeller should all be checked for proper operation.

The battery is probably dead.
Guess my 2009 CBR600RR race bike with less than 500 miles "is worse mechanically than a bike with 10x the km's".

But I swear my bike feels more powerful and shifts smoother than any of my previous RRs that had 10K more miles. :grin2:


Wassup FightingChance! Been a lot time, bro! How you doing?
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top