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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After some time I finally managed to take on the task of bleeding the abs system on my bike. The light had started blinking for sometime and after quote from the agents I decided to rather by myself the factory manual and attempt it myself. This process worked for me, I am not a mechanic try this at your own risk.


The manual states that if you have had air in your normal brake line it is recommended that you bleed the valve unit. If you have removed the valve unit then you must also bleed the power unit In my case I only did the front valve unit I did not do the power unit as it was unnecessary.

In the manual there are for different procedures for the different units 1 for the front valve one for the rear valve, one for the front power unit and one for the rear power unit. The following steps are for the front valve unit bleeding. before starting bleed the front brakes as you would on a conventional non ABS bike I had done this the day before so there was no need for me. the whole process including removal and reassembly of parts took less then two hours, I went through the bleeding process three times in 45 mins. If you are not sure how to remove the tank message me and I will do a write up on that if there isn’t any one on this forum.



https://www.dropbox.com/s/iuemcuksb8r84zh/IMG_0636.JPG?dl=0

1 Remove fairings and fuel tank, the valve unit is located on the left side of the bike and it has two nipples, as you look towards the front of the bike the left nipple is the power unit side and the right one is the stroke simulator side.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/ief80r1erzdhy1i/IMG_0633.JPG?dl=0

2 find the cable with the dummy connector, remove the dummy connector and short the two ends with some electrical wire, the connector is next to the battery on the main wiring harness



https://www.dropbox.com/s/6z0wv39f8ip261a/IMG_0632.JPG?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v9jijnftr7zl0vb/IMG_0634.JPG?dl=0

3 Remove the Headlight fuse 20A and the Horn fuse 10A, remove the reservoir filler cap and top up with brake fluid when neccessary

4 You are now ready to start the front valve bleed process starting with the simulator side nipple so connect your spanner and bleed pipe to that.

5 When that’s done depress the rear brake keep it depressed and turn on the ignition, the ABS indicator light will be on.

6 Let go the rear brake, the ABS indicator will go off.

7 Depress and release the rear brake one more time the indicator will go on when you press and off when you release it.

8 Now pull in the front break, the system will activate with a whining noise and the ABS indicator will start blinking indicating its ready for bleeding. If you don’t complete any of the steps follow the process again from step 5

9 Follow the normal bleeding process using the front brake lever and the simulator side nipple, when it completely bled move on to the power unit side also using the front brake lever, keep monitoring the fluid level on the master cylinder and top up as you go, I put two master cylinders through each nipple.

10. When you are happy move on to the next step by pressing and holding the rear brake, pull on the front brake lever keeping the rear brake depressed. The Indicator will start blinking twice. Let go the rear pedal followed by the front lever. the indicator will blink three times.

11 Connect you bleeding apparatus to the front right brake caliper bleeding nipple and open it.

12 Now press the rear brake, the system will pressurize itself and some fluid will come out of the front right caliper bleeding nipple, close the bleeding nipple and press the rear brake again, the ABS indicator will flash four times.

13 bleed the front right caliper as normal until no air is coming out.

14 When you are finished depress the rear brake, after blinking five times the ABS indicator will will go back to single long blinks. Turn off the ignition

That’s it you ARE DONE! :bigclap: reconnect and test

i have a summary video an I will put it up soon for the visual guys i was on low battery and it was 2am so i was tired and in a hurry. I have ridden a trackday since the procedure and it all went well, seems the light comes on to tell you there is air in the system. It is recommended this done every two to three years so if you plan on keeping your bike for long its a good idea to know how to do this yourself. i have the genuine honda manual so if you need steps for the other units let me know and i will do my best to answer.
 

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I have the step by step pdf to do this if you want it...
My ABS light started blinking and thinking of bleeding my 09 ABS 600RR. Any chance you still have the PDF or can I easily find it with a quick google search?

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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After some time I finally managed to take on the task of bleeding the abs system on my bike. The light had started blinking for sometime and after quote from the agents I decided to rather by myself the factory manual and attempt it myself. This process worked for me, I am not a mechanic try this at your own risk.
Incredible write up. Thank you so much. I have changed the brake lines on my 2010 cbr600rr abs and I cannot get my lever to build pressure even after bleeding (normal bleeding (MC and calipers)). I will try this when I get home. But I cannot see any of the pictures because the dropbox link is broken. Could you update them?

Thank you!!
 

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Hey mate, I found some abs bleeding instructions on the CBR1000RR forum and following them cleared my flashing ABS light (the 1000 has the same system as our 600s). PM me if you'd like the PDF.
 
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