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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Yes please keep me posted mate,mine was mot’s couple of days ago and the (very good) mechanic who used to race bikes says he’s 99% sure it’s the cct and if the rattle is annoying me then fit a manual tensioner. But he said he would leave it as it is as every Honda (all jap sportsbike even)do rattle.
I’m at 23k miles and I asked him regarding valves as mine have not been done,he replied theinterval is 16k,but in his over 20 yrs working on bike he’s checked the clearances on hundreds of bikes and never had to adjust a Honda under 30k miles (it’s ultimately down to the owners choice,but I’ll be leaving mine until I hit over 30k or I get starting problem which he said is the first sign
Hope this helps
 

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Will do mate, Thanks for letting me know about that. Made my day :) Glad that's out of the way, Confirms everything is okay with our bikes... I'm also coming across the same information, 30K for valve clearance seems to be accepted by most so i'm not going to bother with it for now either...anyway speak with you soon
 

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I rode with a fkd up tensioner for 10's of thousands of miles across very bumpy roads, and even small ramps/jumps.

What can happen if the tension on your cam chain slips and the chain skips a tooth or 2 while riding? I don't even want to know! Very bad, maybe even lose control of the bike (god forbid it happens in a turn).
 

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Unless you hear excessive rattling coming from the throttle side (the side with the CCT) around 3-5k RPM I don't know that its worth checking.

A lot of screwdrivers are hard to fit in the space where the CCT is mounted. With the CCT off the bike, you can definitely fit smaller screwdrivers in there so the dimensions of the flathead are typically right. You can cut your own tool out of some scrap metal if you have it available, its just a long flat piece with a square head to lock the CCT. Try searching for CCT tool dimensions on google with site:600rr.net. Someone measured it out for people who want to cut their own.

I do not recommend just yanking the screwdriver out with the CCT fully retracted and unloading against the cam chain with full force. Release it slowly or if you already yanked the tool just retract it like a half turn and let it back out slowly. The point is to have the tensioner come to rest on the chain instead of unloading the full force of the spring into the chain. Some people might think this is wasted effort or not entirely true but that how I treat mine. In my mind the full force of the spring unloading from full unwind may slightly over-tension the chain.
Had a question. New to bike work. Installing a new OEM cam chain tensioner lifter. Already have throttle body off and easy access to the two allen screws on tensioner lifter. I know I have to set engine to top dead center . Question is , do I set it to top dead on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke or should i just take off valve cover and look at marks on timing gears. I believe the "in" and "ex" marks should be even above the block line. Another question. New tensioner lifter comes with 2 blue dots on one side. Do the dots go toward the inside or face out? thanks for any help
 

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If you setting timing then it should be on #1 cylinder TDC , with the "In" and "Ex" level with the top of the case and facing away from each other, are you installing an OEM tensioner or after market, ?
 

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If you setting timing then it should be on #1 cylinder TDC , with the "In" and "Ex" level with the top of the case and facing away from each other, are you installing an OEM tensioner or after market, ?
Oem tensioner. See that it actually only goes on one way
 

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I think you should just enjoy your bike. If you have to question if there is a problem, and can't tell if there actually is, you might just be nit-picking. It's just a motorcycle, and it won't last forever. Enjoy the hell out of it, ride it, and don't think twice about a little tick or rattle here or there. If there is a serious problem it will be obvious, and you will know for sure without having to ask anyone.

You may not know what the cause of the problem is, but you will know there is a problem - you feel me?

To date on all your threads, your bike appears normal to me. Now stop making excuses and get out there and ride it.
I have to disagree with this post not for reason of being argumentative but from personal experience. If you have a abnormal noise of any kind coming from your engine, the absolute worst thing you can do is disregard it. That's true with any combustion engine. Odd noises will always become worse and the earlier the detection and correction, the less involved it will be on you. My 06 had a chain noise and a tick/knock sound. Being the stubborn jackass I am I let it go. Long story short, I melted a rod bearing (literally) and upon disassembly I was completely blown away by the condition of my timing chain guides. So, what I am getting at here is that YES a tensioner can fail in a manner of applying excessive pressure somehow. In fact, I have rebuilt the engine and installed a different tensioner that was doing the exact same thing as the original. It was so tight that my starter was laboring to turn the motor over. After pulling the tensioner, the engine turns like it should during cranking. Don't ask me to explain the engineering side of these things but I know it is possible and seemingly common now that I hear this story. I hope this may help someone bc that through me for a loop for a long time. Let me know what yall think...
 
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