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Discussion Starter #1
I currently use rotella t6 in my 08 cbr600. I'm not meaning to start a war over this lol but the other day i was with my buddies and they started this whole debate about how rotella t6 isnt for our bikes. EVEN though its jasco certified, and that reading off forums of people saying its fine "doesnt matter". " turbo diesel synth oil isnt made for bikes..its made for diesels". I'm kind of tired of hearing 2 different sides. So anyone possibly have any factual proof that this oil is ok? Maybe its a cruiser thing, but they all like to flame me for it :D
 

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I personally haven't used it in my 600rr yet but have many years of use with it in my CRF 450R in both the engine side and the clutch/transmission. In fact the after market clutch I run (rekluse) recommends it.

I'm planning on running it in my 600 on the next oil change. Do a search on here and you'll see that some have many, many miles with no problems on the stuff.
 

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thats what I said. but nooooo, its still not made for our bikes. apparently it doesnt lube up the clutch as well as mobile or any other oil specifically for our bikes
 

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You'll never pry it from my cold, dead hands!

It's fine. It's not marketed as sexy stuff, but if you think about it... how good does oil need to be to go into long haul, million mile rigs? Pretty dang good. All the motorcycle specific oil is good too. I'd use any of it. A motorcycle will rot away, explode, be crashed, or otherwise become KIA long before oil becomes the weak link of a bike. And the difference between going 225,000 miles and 232,000 miles is too small to justify much expense over.

My hot oil tipz:

1. don't use the cheapest s you can find

2. don't use the second cheapest s you can find

3. don't use friction modifier oil or other weird stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm all for t6 myself. and agreed. i just dont understand why I'd buy mobil synthetic at 11 a quart or a jug of t6 for 20 bucks. doesnt make sense ha
 

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295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!

Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike :retard:
 

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On my '03 the manual says either 10w-40 or 10w-30. So I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 which is $58/4L.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Your friends are squids
hah true that. or just close minded XD

295,000 miles, 11 trackdays, and running strong on the original clutch, that's the only proof I have that it's A-OK. Now I haven't run the T6 exclusively, but I did use it for quite some time without a single problem and it's still going strong to this day. Come to think of it, I haven't used a "motorcycle specific" oil in this bike since it had 5000 miles on it. So there ya go!

Yet people still argue with me that my oil is inferior and won't work in a bike :retard:
no ****? what other non specific bike oil were you using besides t6?
 

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Proof you want?

Call the support number on the bottle or there website and ask them if it will work in a bike thats the best/only proof your gunna get.


They Will probably say something like. No we only recommend it for diesel vehicles
 

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No, T6 is bad for the 600RR and other motorcycle engines.

That's why you never hear anyone have issues with it for thousands of miles...
Myself I used Rotella exclusively for over 30k miles, and my RR ran like it was brand new the day I sold it.
 

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hah true that. or just close minded XD


no ****? what other non specific bike oil were you using besides t6?
Just the regular old Mobil 1 10w-40.... 5 qt jug you get at wally world for about $25. And a WIX filter from O'Reileys.... though I've used several different filters over the years. OEM, K&N, Purolator PureOne for a long time, and now the WIX for quite awhile too. Changed every 5000 miles since the bike had 5000 miles on it. Just bought these tonight, need to change it here soon..... last oil change before 300k

It's even Turbo approved! LOL




And a little video I made just now (well a little bit ago, just took forever to upload) just so you can hear for yourself it runs damn near perfect (gotta tighten my CCT just a hair). And that is indeed 295k, just doesn't show the 2 cuz it's a 5 digit odo and resets to 00000 every time. If I had a GoPro right I'd make an actual riding video.... epic fail :retard:

 

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I use Crisco Canola oil in my race bike, and have done so for the last 6000 (race) kms. Bike runs great!


We're talking Hondas here boys, the bikes will run just fine on any oil.
 

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I remember the first time I told someone about running that oil they went crazy on me.. I've been running Mobil 1 but I think I'm gonna change. I didn't see the JASO rating on the back like it used to have
 

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This oil thing is way, way, overthought. Diesel oil has a low ash additive, in other words it prevents carbon buildup more-so than conventional. Big rigs and the transit bus and tractors and Diesel engine in general runs hundreds of thousands of miles constantly and use this formula because of the intense mileage they put on.

Oil cushions, lubricates, cools, drives gears through pressure.

If you change your oil in a timely matter, you're doing your job.

I use Rotella in my high mileage truck and subaru too because why the hell not... It's affordable and it's ashless dispersant.



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I've checked out most Diesel oils here at Supercheap, and none of them are JASO MA or JASO MA2.

However, having a look at the Penrite site, they claim:

HPR DIESEL 15 is recommended for use in petrol, light duty diesel engines, LPG/Dual fuel & four stroke motorcycles including those with wet clutches. It is also suitable for use in petrol and LPG engines as a mixed fleet oil. It is NOT suitable for use in diesels fitted with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter).

However, it isn't JASO MA or MA2.

KEY SPECIFICATIONS:
API CI-4 PLUS/SL
ACEA A3/B4/E7
Ford M2C171-C/153-F/153-G
JASO DH-1
MB 228.3/229.3

So I have no idea what to think now. :s
 
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