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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone I have a 04 600rr runs great other than one major inconvenience battery problems the stator and reg have both been replaced the battery I took and had tested it came back as fine an healthy now here's where I'm having a hard time my first start of the day to warm up it kicks right off I can shut it of an it will still fire right back up however if I go for a ride for 30 mins to an hour it acts like the battery is dead dash resets and just clicks sits for 30 to an hour and it kicks right off like as if there's no issue
 

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hi and welcome! 馃憢

Bring multimeter with you and measure when it's acting up:

1. battery voltage with everything off. volts = ???
2. battery voltage when pushing start button. volts = ???
3. M-terminal on starter-solenoid when pushing start-button. volts = ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you and Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter today however I took the battery to a different place and had it load tested again came back good but was told it was drained down to 37 percent and just needed charged so armed with this new information would it be safe to assume the new stator was possibly faulty?? Iv purchased a charger and have it charging but the battery is very new month or 2 tops so I feel it shouldn't be down that low considering iv rode the bike for about an hour an a half yesterday before I stalled on accident (newish rider) and it didn't fire back up 馃槄
 

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Thank you and Unfortunately I do not have a multimeter today however I took the battery to a different place and had it load tested again came back good but was told it was drained down to 37 percent and just needed charged so armed with this new information would it be safe to assume the new stator was possibly faulty?? Iv purchased a charger and have it charging but the battery is very new month or 2 tops so I feel it shouldn't be down that low considering iv rode the bike for about an hour an a half yesterday before I stalled on accident (newish rider) and it didn't fire back up 馃槄
Without testing and measuring, you have no idea what's at fault. Could be as simple as corroded cables. Or could be bad stator, or bad RR, or bad starter solenoid, or bad starter relay, or start-button, or ignition-switch. Could be corroded connectors on any of cables in between all above. Heck, could even just be corrosion on fuse terminals.

Without testing and measuring, you'll be guessing and replacing one part at time until you randomly replace the ONE part that's bad. To save time, you might as well replace entire charging system all at once.

Also, only get new OEM parts from authorised Honda dealer. There's tonne of crappy 3rd party parts on market. Many of them are bad right out of box. Are stator and RR you replaced recently OEM Honda parts? Third-party parts can work, but really needs to be tested and measured to verify they're functional. Again, key is testing and measuring. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter.
 

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Sounds like I need to purchase a multimeter what would be a good reliable brand to look into
Any basic one that measures voltage and resistance will work. We're not building spaceships here. I've been using this one for decades: 7 Function Digital Multimeter

How to: How to Use a Multimeter - learn.sparkfun.com

Go through "the drill" procedure to determine health of various charging system components:
 
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Check the ground wire as others have mentioned. Also test your battery voltage at idle. If it鈥檚 more than 14v your rectifier regulator is fried.
No!

At idle (put meter over the battery, red on +, black on -) you need to see 14v to 14.6v. Much below that and your stator is not producing enough juice to keep your battery charged.

Rev up to about 5k, reading should go up but not spike up. Much above 15v and your regulator isn't regulating, which will slowly cook your battery.

Any basic multimeter will do. Lots on Amazon for $20 (these usually have continuity tester which comes in real handy). Or Harbor Freight has $8 ones that will do the basics. They all do basic voltage checks just fine. Getting a 'self-ranging' one is a good idea if you're new to electronics.
 

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I used to have this problem all the time on my 03. The RR was getting fried on hot days next the headers. I ended up moving it to underneath the rear tail never had a problem since. Now my bike starts no matter how hot. I did a whole write up on it should be viewable from my page.
 
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