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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Im still finding my way around the CBR600rr.
I'm wondering whether anyone can watch this short youtube clip and advise whether they think this is the dreaded CCT noise or just valve noise.

https://youtu.be/T7RpxftMPno

The clip shows the engine being started from cold and rev'd to 4.5k
The noise seems to be clear from 3.5 - 5k and starts around 20 seconds into the video.
I appreciate of course it was filmed with a phone and so is different to real life. However any and all opinions welcomed.

The bike is a 2007 with 15.5k miles on the clock.
I'm hoping to get the valves checked in a month or so.
 

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Thanks for taking a look HP. You're right its an 05-06 model but was registered July 07 so Ive mistakenly referred to it as an 07 model.
I'll take a look at replacing it this weekend. I'm aware the engine needs to be at TDC to avoid the cams slipping when there is no tension on the chain. This is the only part that concerns me. To be fair though I haven't heard of anyone's engine slipping a tooth when completing the cam chain tensioner replacement. So Im guessing it must be an incredibly rare occurrence.
 

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Thanks for taking a look HP. You're right its an 05-06 model but was registered July 07 so Ive mistakenly referred to it as an 07 model.
I'll take a look at replacing it this weekend. I'm aware the engine needs to be at TDC to avoid the cams slipping when there is no tension on the chain. This is the only part that concerns me. To be fair though I haven't heard of anyone's engine slipping a tooth when completing the cam chain tensioner replacement. So Im guessing it must be an incredibly rare occurrence.
The whole TDC thing is nothing but a common misconception. It doesn't matter where the motor is when you swap tensioners. All that matters is that you don't TURN the motor while there is no tension on the cam chain.

It's as easy as removing the side fairing, removing the tensioner, and putting the new one back in. Are you planning to go oem or APE (manual)?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Planning to go OEM, I dont want the hassle of having to adjust it every so often and I'd be too paranoid about whether it was too tight/loose with the manual APE style one.
 

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Setting tdc takes 3 seconds and is worth doing. The cams at tdc won't be under load so there is no risk of them moving.


Just do it before you pull the tensioner (no ****!) as we recently had a guy who pretty well destroyed his by doing the opposite.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Setting tdc takes 3 seconds and is worth doing. The cams at tdc won't be under load so there is no risk of them moving.


Just do it before you pull the tensioner (no ****!) as we recently had a guy who pretty well destroyed his by doing the opposite.
Managed to replace the tensioner today.

You're right Wibbly, with the crank case cover removed its only a few seconds and for peace of mind I did it. Making sure to rotate it clockwise so any slack is on the tensioner side. The engine still rattles at around 3-5k so I am guessing the noise I am hearing is just general rattle from the valves. As mentioned I will be getting the valves checked soon.

It was worth changing the tensioner for peace of mind more than anything else.
 

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Have you tried putting some fresh oil in? From my experience the hydraulic tensioners can be sensitive to different oil age, weight, and brand.
 

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Was the unit you replaced broken? I think If it is broken it would be obvious (it was obvious on my Magna).
 

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Was the unit you replaced broken? I think If it is broken it would be obvious (it was obvious on my Magna).
He posted a youtube video, and apparently it is very obvious. I trust Honda Power to know.

To the OP: I replaced my CCT with OEM, and about 10k miles later the noise started coming back. Then again, I have almost 80k miles, so my cam chain might just need to be replaced. Although they should last like 100k.

If I could go back in time, I would have gone with a manual CCT, so I could fine tune it as time goes on, like right now.
 

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Yeah the video appears to be gone but it was the classic cam chain noise.

I love my manual tensioner. Like you said it allows real fine tuning unlike the auto tensioner.

So OP did the rattling sound not change at all?
 

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He posted a youtube video, and apparently it is very obvious. I trust Honda Power to know.

To the OP: I replaced my CCT with OEM, and about 10k miles later the noise started coming back. Then again, I have almost 80k miles, so my cam chain might just need to be replaced. Although they should last like 100k.

If I could go back in time, I would have gone with a manual CCT, so I could fine tune it as time goes on, like right now.
I saw that video. Since he replaced it he has the old unit "in hand". So my question was, since he still has the noise, was THAT unit actually broken.
 

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I don't know if it's always obvious to tell if the tensioner has failed though. My old 94 CBR for example made a nasty rattle sound, and when I swapped the cct the old unit appeared to be fine. Meanwhile the new manual tensioner allowed me to fully eliminate the rattling.
 

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I don't know if it's always obvious to tell if the tensioner has failed though. My old 94 CBR for example made a nasty rattle sound, and when I swapped the cct the old unit appeared to be fine. Meanwhile the new manual tensioner allowed me to fully eliminate the rattling.
On my 3rd gen Magna it was obvious. Partzilla Fiche makes it look like a similar design, so I think it might be obvious. Here's a failed 3G Magna CCT for reference. I made the video to post on another forum, rest assured the internal spring in the tensioner was broken.
https://youtu.be/hzuAOfCugjY
 

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Hi guys,

I just saw a you tube video and he says to use a "key" to release the old one and install the new one? do i need special parts to do this? i was going to get the OEM tensioner and a gasket and do mine when i check my valve clearances....
 

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On my 3rd gen Magna it was obvious. Partzilla Fiche makes it look like a similar design, so I think it might be obvious. Here's a failed 3G Magna CCT for reference. I made the video to post on another forum, rest assured the internal spring in the tensioner was broken.
https://youtu.be/hzuAOfCugjY
Gotcha. Mine did not fail in that manner. Mine actually intermittently worked perfectly, then other times would get "stuck" or something, and the chain would rattle bad.

My plunger moved nicely when I had it off too. Spring was intact.
 

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Hi guys,

I just saw a you tube video and he says to use a "key" to release the old one and install the new one? do i need special parts to do this? i was going to get the OEM tensioner and a gasket and do mine when i check my valve clearances....
When I bought a tensioner for my 94 Magna, the new tensioner came with a key. Hopefully this one does too. If it doesn't, they can be easily fabricated.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Have you tried putting some fresh oil in? From my experience the hydraulic tensioners can be sensitive to different oil age, weight, and brand.
Hi guys, thanks for the replies and suggestions. To confirm a few things. The noise is pretty much the same with the new tensioner. So I am putting it down to valve train noise. I'm fairly mechanically minded and Im not concerned anything is wrong. As mentioned its coming up to 16k miles and to my knowledge has never had the clearances checked so its possible the clearances are a little loose and causing a little more noise than expected. As we know its better to have the clearances a little looser than a little too tight.
For the cost of the tensioner I have peace of mind now anyway that its working as it should.

I have recently changed the oil and filter to high quality fully synth blend for the very reason you mention HP.

Here a picture comparing the old one to the new one. The old one seemed fine and was smooth when retracting the arm.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
When I bought a tensioner for my 94 Magna, the new tensioner came with a key. Hopefully this one does too. If it doesn't, they can be easily fabricated.
The new one does come with a little tab that looks like it was designed simply to hold the arm in during transportation. It can certainly be used as a 'key' to wind back the tensioner but it is very small and fiddly compared to a specifically designed key. If you're still curious I will post a comparison picture later.
 
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