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hey so i've used the search and found a few things on chain tension, so what i previously believed was my slack should be about 25mm but reading now people are saying 1' - 1 3/4? just trying to clarify . and is it different because its an 2006?. Since making my chain 25mm of slack i've noticed when its on the stand and i'm cleaning it the wheel doesn't spin as freely as i'd like, it kinda vibrates and slows down to a stop. I checked for tight links and stiff spots and it all seems fine. could it be my slack is too tight?
 

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25mm (1") to 35mm (1 3/8") is what you need. I always set mine to 30mm.
 

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^^^^^^ :+1:
 

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Here's a quick check. You should be able to jerk the chain up and have it hit the bottom of the swing arm, but it should take a pretty good effort. If it won't reach the swingarm it's too tight. If it hits the swingarm with little or no effort it's too loose.
 

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on the street i set mine from 25mm to 30 mm ish of sag but when I am on the race track tech requires you to have a bit more sag so it depends on your use. So for the trip 25 to 30 mm but nothing should be binding or not spinning properly because if that's the case you may have a different issue
 

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Mine is way too lose :( Anyone know what size the rear axle nut is? I have a torque wrench that'll hit 83ft lbs, but it's a ratchet, so I guess I'll need a large socket for that.

How many miles do you guys typically get on a chain? I'm roughly at 3,500 so probably WAY overdue on the adjustment.

Mort
 

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Question on this guys. Had no problems doing my tension, however, do you think there's much difference doing the tension on the ground with a kick stand or with the bike up on stands?

While debating it I had it up on stands, but re-reading the manual, it's clear it wanted it on the kickstand, so I brought it back down... wondering if the tension could change when the rear wheel/swingarm is flexing upward (though I can't imagine if you ever leave the ground they'd want the chain to go slack either).

Anyway, thought I'd ask. That being said it needed remarkably little adjustment to change from a 2" slack up to 1" slack, with about 1/2" of give if pushed.

Mort
 

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i always set mine at the looser side at 35mm, that way it doesn't bind the swingarm travel.
 

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my wife says my bike sounds funny, like something is loose when i ride past at low speed. im guessing its the chain but its slack is correct and i oil it regularly.

this is an interestign thread with some really helpfull tips of what previously was a gray area for me. thanks guys this is what 600 rr is for, so i wish you all have a pleasant and comfortable stool tonight...

he he im going crazy
 

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just did this after replacing rear tire, I measured, finalized and tightened at least 5 times over.

what a pain! It seemed every time I set it where I want, I would tighten it up remove from rear stand and check it again to find out it was way too tight. Even when calculating for swingarm flex.

Btw, the measuring of the slack is kind of tough to judge. I would measure with sufficient weight applied to the chain downwards and then upwards. You can still push further if you really tried - they don't detail this in the service manual. How do you take your measurements?
 

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Here's a quick check. You should be able to jerk the chain up and have it hit the bottom of the swing arm, but it should take a pretty good effort. If it won't reach the swingarm it's too tight. If it hits the swingarm with little or no effort it's too loose.
Jerk the chain? As in slap it and see if it hits? And by swing arm you mean the actual metal or the plastic chain rail guide on the bottom of the swingarm?
 

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A lot of people, well myself, have removed the chain guard, so it's not there to be in the way of such a test. I heard a certain amount of moveable slack, but I still don't think it'd 'hit' the swingarm unless I tried moving it really hard. I guess to keep within the manual I'd measure from the point between the lugs on the swingarm, and measure it too slacked, and keep measuring it as you came to the distance you wanted... thus you're not tightening beyond that tension, but just as you reach the required distance. That should be most minimal amount of tension to reach that distance.

As for the 'on the stand, different off the stand', that's exactly my point... if you do it on a stand, then the swingarm and flex hasn't compensated... whereas as the manual says do it on the kickstand (not on a swingarm peg stand) then it should be at the distances the manual wants... if that makes sense.

Mort
 

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Jerk the chain? As in slap it and see if it hits? And by swing arm you mean the actual metal or the plastic chain rail guide on the bottom of the swingarm?
Lift it up firmly and quickly. It should hit the plastic protector at the bottom of the swingarm, but it should take a pretty good effort. If you can't make it touch, it's too tight. If you can make it touch easily it's too loose. It might be a good idea to use by-the-book measurements the first time, then try my technique to see what it is supposed to feel like.
 

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A lot of people, well myself, have removed the chain guard, so it's not there to be in the way of such a test. I heard a certain amount of moveable slack, but I still don't think it'd 'hit' the swingarm unless I tried moving it really hard. I guess to keep within the manual I'd measure from the point between the lugs on the swingarm, and measure it too slacked, and keep measuring it as you came to the distance you wanted... thus you're not tightening beyond that tension, but just as you reach the required distance. That should be most minimal amount of tension to reach that distance.

As for the 'on the stand, different off the stand', that's exactly my point... if you do it on a stand, then the swingarm and flex hasn't compensated... whereas as the manual says do it on the kickstand (not on a swingarm peg stand) then it should be at the distances the manual wants... if that makes sense.

Mort

Any repercussions to removing that plastic guard?
 
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