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BOTM Winner 10/16
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I have a 2005 CBR 600 RR and I lubed my clutch cable last night, however this morning I took the bike out and on the freeway if I go pass 7,000-8,000RPM it just revs up super high but the bike goes no where.

I'm assuming I messed something up with the setting of the cable, however I didn't bother to look how this whole thing was adjusted to begin with. Does anybody have any photos of where abouts the settings should be for the clutch cable?

Thanks in advance!
 

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I don't think photos will help because I can't really think of any visual indicators of the settings, other than how much of the 'shank' you have threaded into the clutch cable holder at the lever.

There are two places to adjust the cable; at the clutch cover, and at the lever. Major adjustments should be made at the cover, to get it about in the 'middle' of the adjustment range so to speak, and then fine adjustment at the lever. If I remember correctly, Honda makes the fairings to just barely cover one of the adjustment nuts you need to get to, thanks Honda. Read through this thread to get a gist of the adjustment procedure: http://www.600rr.net/vb/35-maintenance/372769-clutch-cable-adjustment-please-verify.html

I like to have a good amount of shank being held by the clutch cable holder at the lever, because this dictates how the clutch cable is threaded. If you back the shank most of the way out, I think that wears on the cable prematurely.

Finally, it is possible to adjust the cable so that even without touching the lever, it is keeping the clutch from fully clamping shut; this could cause clutch plate slipping and wears very hard on the clutch pack.

It seems that modern clutch cables have a teflon sheath and don't need (or shouldn't be) lubed for their life; what did you use to lube the cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think photos will help because I can't really think of any visual indicators of the settings, other than how much of the 'shank' you have threaded into the clutch cable holder at the lever.

There are two places to adjust the cable; at the clutch cover, and at the lever. Major adjustments should be made at the cover, to get it about in the 'middle' of the adjustment range so to speak, and then fine adjustment at the lever. If I remember correctly, Honda makes the fairings to just barely cover one of the adjustment nuts you need to get to, thanks Honda. Read through this thread to get a gist of the adjustment procedure: http://www.600rr.net/vb/35-maintenance/372769-clutch-cable-adjustment-please-verify.html

I like to have a good amount of shank being held by the clutch cable holder at the lever, because this dictates how the clutch cable is threaded. If you back the shank most of the way out, I think that wears on the cable prematurely.

Finally, it is possible to adjust the cable so that even without touching the lever, it is keeping the clutch from fully clamping shut; this could cause clutch plate slipping and wears very hard on the clutch pack.

It seems that modern clutch cables have a teflon sheath and don't need (or shouldn't be) lubed for their life; what did you use to lube the cable?
Had I known it didn't need any lube, I would have never touched anything. :(

I used Cable Lube, I had to undo the top part of the cable (by the lever), I didn't touch any of the settings at the bottom, should I be messing around there even if I didn't touch it??

I'm just trying to get the top part back to how it was, because I know for sure it's not set properly there...
 

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you probably put too much tension on the cable.


turn the adjuster clockwise (so it gets closer to the clutch perch) until there is a tiny bit of slack in the cable (ie the lever moves very slightly before you feel the cable pick up tension.


that's all there is to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you probably put too much tension on the cable.


turn the adjuster clockwise (so it gets closer to the clutch perch) until there is a tiny bit of slack in the cable (ie the lever moves very slightly before you feel the cable pick up tension.


that's all there is to it.
I did exactly what you mentioned and it fixed the problem, however I have zero free play, as in the moment I touch the clutch lever, the cable would move. I read that theirs supposed to be the spacing of a nickel for movement then the cable should move, correct me if I'm wrong.

Here's what it looks like now, also in order to get some freeplay, what's the next step? Thanks again!




 

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Its ok as long as its not putting pressure on the cable untill you begin to pull... i dont like any slop in mine and there is none. Just have to make sure its not pulling on the cable if that makes sense..
 

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I have zero free play, as in the moment I touch the clutch lever, the cable would move.
You should have a nickel of freeplay before there is tension. If not, then the main adjuster down below, adjust that so more of the thread is showing to the left of the mount.
 

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Its ok as long as its not putting pressure on the cable untill you begin to pull... i dont like any slop in mine and there is none. Just have to make sure its not pulling on the cable if that makes sense..
I tried to get to zero slack, but full lock left and it is tight. I adjusted it to almost zero slack when full lock. Figured this would be relatively better for the cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its ok as long as its not putting pressure on the cable untill you begin to pull... i dont like any slop in mine and there is none. Just have to make sure its not pulling on the cable if that makes sense..
I totally get it but this may sound dumb, how can I tell if it's pulling on it (even in the slightest way).

Thanks again!
 

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Its ok as long as its not putting pressure on the cable untill you begin to pull... i dont like any slop in mine and there is none. Just have to make sure its not pulling on the cable if that makes sense..
I totally get it but this may sound dumb, how can I tell if it's pulling on it (even in the slightest way).

Thanks again!
Is there tension when you squeeze the lever? Should be no tension for the first 2mm from the perch, then it picks up the slack.
 

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I totally get it but this may sound dumb, how can I tell if it's pulling on it (even in the slightest way).

Thanks again!
Look at the last pic u posted.

Give it a little slack and tighten it till the partt at then end of the cable moves then just back off a hair and boom little to no free play.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Look at the last pic u posted.

Give it a little slack and tighten it till the partt at then end of the cable moves then just back off a hair and boom little to no free play.
So to get that slack, do I loosen it from the bottom? (Even if only removed the top end of the cable to begin with)
 

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Is there tension when you squeeze the lever? Should be no tension for the first 2mm from the perch, then it picks up the slack.
Well before I touched anything, the bike would stall if I let off the clutch completely. Now the bike would slowly move forward...
 

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So to get that slack, do I loosen it from the bottom? (Even if only removed the top end of the cable to begin with)
Do it from the lever but if theres no more room for adjustment. You need to do it from the clutch case cover. (On the engine)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Do it from the lever but if theres no more room for adjustment. You need to do it from the clutch case cover. (On the engine)
It's weird that theirs no more room on the lever.... because I didn't touch the table from the clutch case :/
 

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You need to fix the clutch case side, thats why you can't adjust slack up top. Loosen the nut on the right side, push the threaded portion to the left, tighten the left nut. If you pull your clutch lever you can see the direction that part moves, and you'll understand why it was slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Is there tension when you squeeze the lever? Should be no tension for the first 2mm from the perch, then it picks up the slack.
Yes, there is tension at all times. The moment I touch the lever, theirs tension.



You need to fix the clutch case side, thats why you can't adjust slack up top. Loosen the nut on the right side, push the threaded portion to the left, tighten the left nut. If you pull your clutch lever you can see the direction that part moves, and you'll understand why it was slipping.
I'll do this on Tuesday, since I won't have time to work on it tonight or tomorrow. I just find it weird that I have to adjust the clutch case side, considering I just touched the top piece, but I'll do exactly what you said and report back here with the results.



Looking at your picture your clutch is still partially disengaged. You have definitely got to adjust your slack on clutch case side, there's like no thread on your adjuster down there.

Look at this first image. http://www.600rr.net/vb/103-03-06-rr/53846-removing-reinstalling-clutch-alternator-cover.html

Will do.

To multi-quote on a cell phone is almost impossible to do.

Thank you everyone for all the help!
 
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