[foxx_mma]

First off I want to say i have learned a lot just lurking about these forums. Now that i have started my hunt seriously I decided to register. I am in the market for my first 600rr and i have been looking around locally. I finally found one for a great price and good mileage but the problem is it has a godawful paint job. It looks professionally done but its just far too gaudy and flashy for my tastes. I wont describe it in detail because I dont want to offend anyone's tastes here but i will say it had tons of painted stars with an awful background color that i just cant stand.

That said I have no experience with painting bikes or cars for that matter. Can I just get someone to spray over it in just flat black color will that stick? I dont need anything fancy color wise i just dont want the underneath color to show through. Should i be looking for a set of replacement body panels? Whats a professional paint job on this type of bike run?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

[cbr6racr]

You will need to sand the paint to make sure the new stuff sticks. Get yourself some fine sandpaper, and rub every square inch of the panels. Then spray with a primer coat, base coat, clear like normal, with the required sanding in between.

A typical single color primer/base/clear with no prep work shouldn't run more the a couple hundred. Here is a painter on the WERA boards doing a 3 color with number plates for $375. Keep in mind this is for racel bodywork, so there isn't as many pieces as street plastics, so you'll probably pay more.

http://weraclassifieds.com/ads/paintwork-for-track-bodywork/

 

[Qshayshay21]

If you decide that you don't wanna do the leg work, you can buy a set of aftermarket fairings for about $500.US. Slap those on and keep or sell the old fairings. I'm sure there is someone w/ similiar tastes as the prev. owner.

I kinda wanna see pics of the bike your talking about. I promise you won't offend me.

 

[boognish]

1. 320 or coarser for the initial sand end it with a 320 or finer thou7gh
2. fill any chips or deep scratches with body filler resand those areas. do'nt try to sand them out you'll end up with a wavey finish.
3. use a wax and grease remover , wax on wax off like the karate kid.
4. spray with primer
5. lightly spray black rattle can over the primer it should look like you sprinkled pepper all over it.
6. sand with 320 or higher grit till all the black is gone and it looks uniform.
7. wax and grease remover
8. tack cloth the surface
9. spray sealer (similar color as basecoat) this is optional but will eliminate the sanding marks for a better finish.
10. wait 5-20 minutes pending temp and humidity spray base coat 2-3 coats to coverage. 5-20 minutes between coats.
11. and clear coat same as base coat. you can allow the last clear coat to dry and then wet sand and finish again with a 10-15 % reduced clear coat (called a flow coat) if you want , but if you sprayed the initial coats nicely it's not necessary.
use uerethane i'm not goin to go into all the details and i probably missed some things but i'm at work and have to go do some actual work so i'm in a hurry to type. that should get you headed in the right direction though. google the blanks.

ps.- around 500-750 bucks for material and equipment minus the compressor(pricey you'll need at least 10scfm/min. with typical hvlp spray gun) you can get buy with less from a lvlp or a hvlp mini gun. unless you plan on painting often it's not gonna be worth it. probably just prep and let someone else shoot it and get off cheaper.

 

[michaelwood]

ps.- around 500-750 bucks for material and equipment minus the compressor(pricey you'll need at least 10scfm/min. with typical hvlp spray gun) you can get buy with less from a lvlp or a hvlp mini gun. unless you plan on painting often it's not gonna be worth it. probably just prep and let someone else shoot it and get off cheaper.

Pretty much everything you said is acceptable, and good advice.
But you don't need a 10scfm/min compressor on a bike. On a bike you have the liberty of being able to wait a minute between pannels. Waiting a minute every now and then, you'll still have enough time to lay the paint down fast enough. I once bought a painting worthy compressor off my local craigslist for $40 & a trade for a digital camera. It provided 6.4 scf/min, which was plenty. There are deals out there waitingn to be found.

Also you'll want an air dryer and a good filter. Try to get an oil free compressor, and drain the tank before you paint. Use a new air line, one without any air tool oil or crap in it. Have fun, whatever you decide to do OP.



P.S. When shopping for a compressor DON'T go by horsepower ratings. Go by tank size and SCF/min from your regular wall outlet. Going by HP is very misleading. The max HP that can be run continuously from a wall outlet is 2.2, and yet you'll see compressors advertized as 5hp, and even 8hp.

 

[boognish]

Pretty much everything you said is acceptable, and good advice.
But you don't need a 10scfm/min compressor on a bike. On a bike you have the liberty of being able to wait a minute between pannels. Waiting a minute every now and then, you'll still have enough time to lay the paint down fast enough. I once bought a painting worthy compressor off my local craigslist for $40 & a trade for a digital camera. It provided 6.4 scf/min, which was plenty. There are deals out there waitingn to be found.

Also you'll want an air dryer and a good filter. Try to get an oil free compressor, and drain the tank before you paint. Use a new air line, one without any air tool oil or crap in it. Have fun, whatever you decide to do OP.



P.S. When shopping for a compressor DON'T go by horsepower ratings. Go by tank size and SCF/min from your regular wall outlet. Going by HP is very misleading. The max HP that can be run continuously from a wall outlet is 2.2, and yet you'll see compressors advertized as 5hp, and even 8hp.

true that, but why spend the money on the setup and limit yourself with only enough compression for small panel work. if the o.p. decided to spray something larger the compressor would run constantly and heat the air to unacceptable levels. you could start with a smaller compressor and if you decided to paint a car for example just add another compressor in parallel.

 

[foxx_mma]

Thanks for all the replies I know my friend has an industrial compressor in his garage so as long as i clean and drain that and just get a new air hose i could always use that. This doesnt sound as bad as I was anticipating. Do you think http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html this paint gun would work for a one time spray job?

 

[HI OFECR]

Make sure you scuff EVERY BIT OF CLEARCOAT !!!!!

I've seen it 100 times guy doing the prep gets lazy = paint chip's right off.

 

[boognish]

Thanks for all the replies I know my friend has an industrial compressor in his garage so as long as i clean and drain that and just get a new air hose i could always use that. This doesnt sound as bad as I was anticipating. Do you think http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-air-paint-spray-gun-97855.html this paint gun would work for a one time spray job?

if you wanna cheap gun that performs check out the tcpglobal.com 3 gun set or anything from spraygunworld.com. harborfreight use to offer a descent gun for the money but they've switched guns the new on is junk. try this one I've used it and it actually is a fine spraying gun, i was also impressed with the quality for 39.00 bucks.
here's a part number. TCP G6600-14
get the 1.3 or 1.4 tip and a 1.5 - 1.8 also for primer (depends on the paint, check your paint manufacturers recomended tip sizes)
you need clean air don't skimp on the filter. alot of time and money just to end up with fish eyes and moisture in the finish. get a good filter set at least also use an inline dessicant filter at the gun theyre about 20 bucks a piece..

you can pm me if you want tech support.

 

[foxx_mma]

Thanks a lot for all the help I am going to try to hammer him down on the cost. If he bites and i wind up getting it I will defiantly come back for more assistance.