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Cropdusters Track bike resurrection

9K views 60 replies 14 participants last post by  Cropduster 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

I'm a middle aged guy who is not getting any younger, i get the impression i'm a LOT older than most members here but that's ok.
I've decided to do a few track days and my road bikes are too pretty/expensive to flog on the track, so.......

I went looking for an ideal middleweight track bike, some mates ride 250 proddy bikes, RGV's RS Aprilias etc but i'm a 4 stroke guy, and I'm not keen on constant rebuilds. The Honda seemed the perfect choice, cheap, fast, bulletproof reputation and best of all pretty easy to work on. decided I needed an RR, preferably 07 on, and I found this.

It's a TenKate WSS bike that was 1 of 3 built for Sunstate Honda who raced it in the Australian championship for two years (5th overall) as well as guest rides in WSS rounds at Phillip Island, ridden by Judd Greedy. I bought it as you see in the pic, fresh new bodywork with a tribute paint job to Judd who has sadly passed away.

Being one to not put my faith in others i thought it best to strip it and make sure everything was fine before flogging it senseless on the track, to that end it is now a bare frame, i will update my build as i go, for those interested ask what you will, I'll answer what I can but I'm learning as I go so I'll likely be asking questions as well, i appreciate the help i've received so far, so thanks.
 

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#30 ·
well i've had some time off, been busy with work and another one of my bikes has been getting all of my attention (and money) so i've not been working on this....

I've finally got a new set of Supercorsas mounted, SC1 on the front, SC2 on the rear, but of course, i had to spend more than i expected, When the rotors were checked for runout they were warped so a new set of Brembo SerieOro were fitted and a new Renthal Alloy rear 43T sprocket was added as well.
Std gearing is supposed to be 16/41 according to the Renthal cat, mine is 15/43.

All the bodywork has been tinkered with to make it fit better, my painter will have it in the next couple of weeks and will do a final fit and then paint it Blackbird Blue
Can't wait......
 

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#32 ·
well it's still at the painters.......

Unforseen personal circumstances and other issues have had my bike on the back burner for far too long but it's moving (slowly) again so i should have it back with it's fresh new paint job shortly. This Covid nonsense has kept the tracks closed anyway so it's not so bad.....
 
#34 ·
Thanks mate!

It's getting there, it's all in hi build primer now.
Here's a pic of the repairs to get the fitment nice....

I'm lashing out on a fancy paint job to help remind me i'm old and don't want to crash so it's been tinkered with to minimise chaffing or damage when assembled and ridden and hopefully make disassembly a fuss free job.
It's going to be Blackbird blue, they made that bike in blue (here in Oz anyway) for three years i think, the colour is slightly different each year so i went with 04 which is "Tahitian Blue"
 

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#47 ·
I've been loving my bike, lots of track days, great fun!
However I like running Pirelli Supercorsa SC, they last surprisingly well, i run a SC1 on the front and a 2 on the rear (the fast guys run them the other way around apparently...
Anyway, i've been having trouble getting a 180 because all the new stuff runs 190 and I have run a 190/55/17 but it definitely pinches on the 5.5" rim and it's a bit strange when leaned over, feels a bit odd. So I can either run a different brand tyre in a 180 (haven't looked) not keen on that, i know how these behave and work and i like them, or run a 6.0" rim....

I bought Oz Piega forged wheels in a 3.5 and 6.0 set and the 190 is the correct profile so i'm looking forward to getting out on it and seeing how it goes, not cheap, and a 12 week wait but they are so light, very high quality and sexy on the bike too! Oh and there is PLENTY of room for fitment.(y)


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#50 ·
Guilty as charged....
The m/cyl was stuffed and i got a deal on a Brembo radial new, I persevered with the std calipers but they leaked, after so much race use the bleed nipples were worn out and the seats in the calipers were as well.... So some M4 Brembos were bought to match the M/cyl.....

The wheels, well, they look awesome, ride great and 190 tyres are easier to get than 180's.

My intention was to keep it period correct spec wise but there's no point really, I love riding it and now it's more "Me"😉
 
#52 ·
Nothing has changed.... been track riding it and loving it but i'm about to burst my own bubble of confidence by getting a lap timer.

I know i'll not be doing anything remotely "respectable" however there are a couple of corners i struggle with and talking to other riders in the two fast groups they always talk about speed at their brake marker and my bike has the HRC ECU, Dash and Loom so no speedo for me. If i get a lap timer that can seperate sections and display speed i can use that to hopefully understand one particular corner that i struggle with as well as see if i make progress, which i'm pretty sure i do but it would be nice to know where i am in the pack as i try to ride alone mostly but have been with a few guys that are quite fast and definitely help to tow me along with their markers and corner speed, if i can manage to stay with them long enough to actually learn....

So to that end i'm looking at an AIM Solo2 and will need to figure out some sort of mounting bracket, i'll hard wire it to the bike as well as i do have a "hot" lead near the battery for + and i'll earth it to the frame with everything else, likely at the large plugs on the RHS.

Anyone run one of these? any mounting tips or available brackets that work? would LOVE to see some pics???? The seller of the Solo tells me there's a specific Honda bracket but he doesn't like it as the well nut fails and they can fall off, i'm not taking that route.

Cheers, and G,day!
 
#53 ·
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#54 ·
Hi @dannoxyz , thanks mate, much appreciated, Yeah, the hot source for power near the battery is on all the time, and my bike has no ignition switch or key etc. but i think you're right, if i wire it to the kill switch i can have it active while the bike is on, saves worrying about the lithium battery being overcharged or (what i was planning on doing) unplugging the power cable when not in use.
 
#55 ·
I made 2 aluminum standoffs that screw into the old holes for the key switch, since mine is removed as well. I'll look tonight, but I think that they happened to line up perfectly with the metal mount plate that came with the Solo 2. Mine is plugged into the red plug near the battery (diagnostic plug ? proper name is escaping me at the moment), so sees power anytime the kill switch is not in the off position.
 
#56 ·
Oh, well that's interesting! i hope that's the case, will save me some agro and cash worrying about a custom bracket! I'll look when it gets here, if not i'll just drill the bracket so it does and mount it that way i think.

The red plug you speak of is that the multi pin plug? Solo offer a a"DL" that plugs into that so your timer can see most of what the ECU sees but it doesn't support my early HRC ECU so i didn't go with that one, i was thinking there's a single red wire with a female insulated spade terminal but i think it's always live....
 
#60 ·
My Solo2 arrived and the bracket that comes with it is pretty good! magnetised with spring loaded screws to lock the timer on, which i used and bolted that to an alloy bracket I forgot i had that clamps to the fork leg. I also lock wired the bracket to the triple clamp to make sure i don't lose it just in case.
For the power supply I used the cigarette lighter charger and hard wired it into the kill switch behind the plug, it turns on when the bike is turned on, perfect! So hopefully the thing recognises my local track and I can go ride....
Gratuitous pic attached, no bodywork back on the bike yet...
 
#61 ·
Here it is with the bodywork back on, cockpit looks tidy, pretty happy with it.

Oh yeah, MASSIVE shout out to GPR stabilisers, mine had a leak and i tried to replace the O rings with locally supplied generic ones but they weren't right, I contacted GPR and they supplied me a rebuild kit (with a complete extra set as well) free of charge, I had to pay for the postage only. Very happy with that, super easy to deal with too.


 
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