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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a trackday only rider, and am setting up a new '07. I want to remove the left bar switchgear but need to know how to defeat the clutch switch. I thought one of you might have had to do this and could pass it along. Thanks for any help.
 

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Want to hear a rumor, don't tell anyone...

If you remove that switch, for some reason on certain bikes you will cause the ECU to divert to another map 10hp lower than oem. Why? Don't know but it shows up on the dyno on certain bikes.
And if you are racing against me disregard this and cut away.
(The shop is going to kill me)
 

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Want to hear a rumor, don't tell anyone...

If you remove that switch, for some reason on certain bikes you will cause the ECU to divert to another map 10hp lower than oem. Why? Don't know but it shows up on the dyno on certain bikes.
And if you are racing against me disregard this and cut away.
(The shop is going to kill me)
That happened to a friend of mine's 750. He could never figure out why he was losing lenghts on the straight aways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Want to hear a rumor, don't tell anyone...

If you remove that switch, for some reason on certain bikes you will cause the ECU to divert to another map 10hp lower than oem. Why? Don't know but it shows up on the dyno on certain bikes.
And if you are racing against me disregard this and cut away.
(The shop is going to kill me)
Urban legend. It's a normally open switch. ECU has no way of knowing if the switch is in the circuit or not. And the stock ECU only stores one map at a time. Since the Power Commander over-rides the stock mapping, it's a moot point in any case.
 

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...ohm resistance... it knows.

And a PC-III only runs 4 out of 8 injectors... they (other 4 shower injectors) run off the OEM ECU.
Urban legend worth the risk with me in a draft behind you going down the straight. I end up blowing you doors off because of my draft or you disconnected some nickel and dime switch... still worth the risk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...ohm resistance... it knows.

And a PC-III only runs 4 out of 8 injectors... they (other 4 shower injectors) run off the OEM ECU.
Urban legend worth the risk with me in a draft behind you going down the straight. I end up blowing you doors off because of my draft or you disconnected some nickel and dime switch... still worth the risk?
How much horsepower will I lose when I disconnect the kickstand switch? If you want to make a credible point, you need to provide some real, verifiable information.
 

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I have no idea, its only from what I have seen on bikes put on the Dyno.
The bike had 110 with the switch active. 99hp with it removed. Nothing changed but the switch cut out.
This was only done after someone complained the bike felt slow and removed the switch.

Just try it and let us know.

Kickstand switch, lol nice.
 

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...ohm resistance... it knows.

And a PC-III only runs 4 out of 8 injectors... they (other 4 shower injectors) run off the OEM ECU.
Urban legend worth the risk with me in a draft behind you going down the straight. I end up blowing you doors off because of my draft or you disconnected some nickel and dime switch... still worth the risk?
Like you really need the extra 10 ponies. Maybe I'll cut our switch at night to even up the odds a little

Plus I think this may only affect the suzukis. I haven't seen of any others complaining of this
 

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My friends 05 GSX-R 750 had this problem, his race bike was at the tuner and after comparing dynos to other bikes with the same mods. The results were quite different and they ended up calling Suzuki (American) to figure out why there was a big difference. They mentioned it could be the clutch switch and suggested replacing it with a another unit and not cut this one.

But, he had cut the wiring quite far down the wire so, who knows if he cut some other wires to. But, this is the only case I have heard about this being a problem.
 

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So the end result would be, for the track bike to just leave the left hand switchgear on the bar? Or is there a neat racers trick I havent learnt yet of having the clutch switch still wired...

If theres no takers then I might pull it apart tonight and just wire straight from the incoming switchgear loom into the clutch switch, will let you know how it goes.

JasonBW
 

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I don't know anything about this 'urban legend' but in theory, the ECU could know something is up. If it 'sees' the clutch is 'pulled in' all the time, but you are giving it throttle, it would know you messed with it.

why do you want to remove a clutch switch anyway? just curious...
 

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why do you want to remove a clutch switch anyway? just curious...
Just to remove the switchgear on the left side as its unnecessary (lights, indicators, horn switch etc) problem is the clutch switch is part of its wiring loom, so removing this switchgear will remove the clutch switch.

P.s. Good point on the 'see' its pulled in.... It compliments REM6A's suggestion nicely.
P.p.s. Thanks REM6A for opening up with that info ! Appreciated! :beer:
 

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i just did this.

remove the entire harness from the clip on to the main harness. the clutch switch will stay bolted to the clutch.
then find the wires in the main harness that connect to the clutch switch and just splice into those and run 2 wires to the clutch.
for my 07 it was green with a red stripe and green with a white stripe.
now the clutch switch works and i got rid of that huge switch group and harness.
 

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I just removed the whole thing as well. I disconnected all of the controls on the left side from the connector. I pulled the wires out (GR and GW) out of the connector on the bike side and spliced them together. I haven't ridden it since removing, but it started right up. Only problem is that it will turnover while its still in gear.

The problem with the bike losing power is documented with the Suzuki ECU. I've not heard of this issue with any other make though. Suzuki programmed their ECU to drop to a low power map when it reads the clutch is continuously pulled in to prevent new riders from dumping the clutch and looping the bike.
 

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Suzuki do a few sneaky things with their ignitions having a resistance where you think it's a switch but the clutch switch usually just goes to a relay circuit which is wired so you can only operate the starter motor under certain conditions.

Certainly on the K1-K4 model 600/750's and 1000's there's no way the ECU can tell you've changed the clutch switch for anything else. I'm well familiar with the wiring for these as I built a race loom for my mates 600K4 complete with the ignition bypassed so it all powered up off the kill switch. Not a straight forward mod so I got to learn exactly what everything does in the starter and ignition circuits.

So I say it's a myth on the Gixers unless it's something specific to the latest generation i.e. K5 onwards 1000's and the K6 600/750's. I'll gladly explain to anyone who wants to know how the clutch switch actually functions in the circuit.

The 600RR uses the same clutch switch as other manufacturers and is just a plain old switch - open or closed, nothing more complicated than that so it's no problem to link out if you remove the switch gear.
 
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