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just do it my way,
it allows you to completly remove the harness there and still have the switch.

its a track bike yeah but it will come in very handy that day you brain fart and stall it for whatever reason and need to restart. without that switch you will have to go back to neutral before it will start
 

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just do it my way,
it allows you to completly remove the harness there and still have the switch.

its a track bike yeah but it will come in very handy that day you brain fart and stall it for whatever reason and need to restart. without that switch you will have to go back to neutral before it will start

+1. You've also got to expect that at some point someone else will hop on your bike and try to start it up. I'd hate to see them dump it because they didn't know about your switch

I got to thinking about this and decided to rework what I had originally done, which was completely defeat the clutch switch.

I decided to go back to the stock switch pod on the left bar and pulled out the wiring for the clutch switch. I coated these wires with some shrink tubing, installed some connectors on the ends, and connected it back up to the correlating wires on the bike. Now the clutch switch works as designed.


I also decided to run the wiring for the BAS along with the clutch switch wires, which helps clean things up a bit.

 

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Suzuki do a few sneaky things with their ignitions having a resistance where you think it's a switch but the clutch switch usually just goes to a relay circuit which is wired so you can only operate the starter motor under certain conditions.

Certainly on the K1-K4 model 600/750's and 1000's there's no way the ECU can tell you've changed the clutch switch for anything else. I'm well familiar with the wiring for these as I built a race loom for my mates 600K4 complete with the ignition bypassed so it all powered up off the kill switch. Not a straight forward mod so I got to learn exactly what everything does in the starter and ignition circuits.

So I say it's a myth on the Gixers unless it's something specific to the latest generation i.e. K5 onwards 1000's and the K6 600/750's. I'll gladly explain to anyone who wants to know how the clutch switch actually functions in the circuit.

The 600RR uses the same clutch switch as other manufacturers and is just a plain old switch - open or closed, nothing more complicated than that so it's no problem to link out if you remove the switch gear.
Switch gear ? Explain.. my switch is disconeccted and amooling to reconnect
 

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so i wired my clucth switch up by finding the plugs in the harness running wires from those ports to clutch switch. when the clutch sensor that is behind the lever is full open all the time the bike runs way diff. it almost is sluggish and then power band kicks in way high like 10k. so then i run it normal and its fine . but if you just jump the two connectors in the harness it runs good as well. i notcied there is less engine breakin also when the switch is jumped
 

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You realize the clutch switch is a “Normally Open” switch right? Essentially what you’re saying is if you had the switch installed, your bike would run better if you could have the clutch pulled in all time…
 

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Just remove it. I wouldn't splice the wires. It's a good safety measure to not have it start in gear.
 

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My friend's 07 had the switch jumped because of an aftermarket easy pull, and it caused the ECU to run funny. The bike had a hesitation at certain RPM, and they were pulling their hair out trying to figure it out. Then they disconnected the jumper from the clutch switch al bike runs perfect again.
 
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