[nate96]

I am no longer making these. I sold my bike.

Hopefully the mods dont get mad, as I messed up the last write up and want to start fresh.

Things needed.

1-10amp SPDT Relay.It is also made by NTE. Can use one found at an automotive store. $5.99
1-1ohm 25 watt resistor, or 2-2 ohm resistors wired parallel.$1.49 http://www.nteinc.com/resistor_web/resistors.html
(THIS IS FOR 55-60 WATT BULBS. DO NOT USE 100WATT BULBS FOR THIS)
I used an enclosure to put the relay I used in it. $4.99
Should be able to find these at an Industrial Electronic Store.
5' of wire
Soldering Iron, and some Solder
1.5 hours of your time

www.active123.com is where I got my stuff. They are located in Canada tho

Add all the wire to the relay. Leaving at least 12" of length for the wires going to the headlights, and about 8" for the ones going to the resistor.

The relay should look like this

I used mostly all black wire so It looks closer to stock looking.

Then drill out holes in the enclosure. 3 on one side, 2 on the other.
Slide the wires through the holes until the relay is in the enclosure.

Should look like this

Flip over the enclosure. I put about 5 layers of electrical tape to protect it from the heat of the resistors.

Add the wire to the resistors. Make sure to solder the connections.

I then cut the wire, and added some heat shrink. Then taped the resistor to the enclosure.

The relay is done.


I placed the enclosure under the instrument cluster using some double sided tape. It is hidden and out of the way.

You can follow the first picture on how to wire it to the bike. Solder and heat shrink all of your connections


Stock With One light Low beam

With low Beam on 100% and High Beam on at 40%

With Both Lights on 100%

This can be done many different ways. This is just how I did it this time.
If I do another I might try to incorporate everything inside an enclosure.

 

[nate96]

Installation Instructions

Items Needed.



Wire Strippers

Soldering Iron

Solder

Heat Shrink

Heat Gun or Hair Dryer

• Place relay under the instrument cluster where it will be mounted.
• Move wire 1 to the low beam side, and wires 2,3 & 4 to the high beam side.

Low Beam Side

• Cut Low beam side positive side at A(Black with white marks). Make sure to leave enough length so you can solder on new connections.( I added some more wire to mine)
• Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the bike.
• Strip back wire 1 and both sides of A.
• Solder all 3 ends together
• Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink.

High Beam Side

Power the Light

• Cut the High Beam positive side at B(Black with Blue marks). Make sure to leave enough length so you can solder on new connections.( I added some more wire to mine)
• Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the relay.
• Strip back wire 2 and E
• Solder Both ends together
• Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink

Power the Relay

• Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the bike side at C.
• Strip back wire 4 and C
• Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink

Ground the Relay

• Cut the High Beam negative side at D(Black ). Make sure to leave enough length so you can solder on new connections.( I added some more wire to mine)
• Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the relay.
• Strip back wire 3 and D
• Solder Both ends together
• Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink
• Remove the piece over the double sided tape and mount permanently

You are Finished

 

[nate96]

The only negative impact I can think of, is you will go through more High beam lights. But on the other hand you are more visible. Other than that the bike runs as normal.

I have done this, and I must say it's one of the best and cheapest mods I've done.

Glad to hear you got it to work

I would be willing to make these for people. As i have a lot of spare time right now. But I'd like to get 5 to do all at once. Let me know if your interested

 

[nate96]

..........

 

[nate96]

No Problem Craig. I was going to make these so that even if someone put in a 100 Watt bulb that it wont have ane effects on the switch. BTW if you use 2 of these relays, you can have both lights dimming by using 100watt bulbs. I would have done it that way but I already spent money on new bulbs.

But you must get your power from an alternate power than from the low beam if using the 100 Watt bulbs

 

[nate96]

Lexus: Yes C used to be connected to E. It is where you cut at B.
On line 3 connecting it to D. Yes there would be three ends to solder together. I did it that way so i could add more wire. But If you are good electricaly, you do not need to cut D, you could just get rid of some insulation and add 3 to it.

Jasonb: What would be shipped is the relay with resistors, in an enclosure already wired. Hopefully everything will be in the enclosure this time. There will be enough wire so all you need to do is wire it to the bike. The second part of the instructions.

 

[nate96]

can you get 2-0.5 ohm 10W resistors. You could wire them series. Or 2-2.0ohm 10W resistors in parallel. You can get away with just 1-1.0ohm 10W resistor. As it will put out 8 Watts when hooked up. So it will just run hot. Just make sure to insulate very well if you do it that way. I can check tomorrow as I have all my stuff at work right now on using 0.5 ohms, or 1.5 ohms

 

[nate96]

Sounds like you wired it wrong and got a short somewhere. I did that the first time i tried doing this. Toke it off rewired it and it was good

 

[nate96]

I am using 2-2 ohm resistors in parallel.

If the relay is clicking very quickly, you more than likely have a short somewhere.

If you wire it this way with the resistors you have. The high beam should be around 34 Watts of out put when using 55 Watt bulbs when on low beams. Theses values are all approximate. Your resistors should run fairly cool then too. By using 1 ohm resistance the bulb is around 28 Watts of out put.
If you can get another 1 ohm resistor. You can add it in series with the single one. Then you would have 1 ohm total with the others run in parallel with it.

 

[nate96]

................

 

[nate96]

This was a bad idea. It melted the enclosure.

 

[nate96]

With the 55W bulbs and using at least 20W of resistors. They do not get thet hot. Still pretty warm tho. I have been running mine for 2000 miles now and no problems.

 

[nate96]

Sorry Guys. I can not make these at this time. They are real easy to make, just require a bit of time and a soldering iron. If you dont have one you can grab a cheap one to it.

Nate

 

[nate96]

No. When you do this, the low beam is still 100% all the time. The High beam is the only light affected by this. When switch is on low beam the high beam is dim, then when you switch to high beams the high beam goes to 100%

 

[nate96]

No this can not be done with HID's. HID's run higher Voltage. The ballasts take the 9-15V input and convert it to 85V. This draws less current. They work much like flourecent bulbs in your home. There is a mod I think Tripage has done. It invloves putting another bulb in the high beam side beside the HID.

I dont check this site much anymore. I sold my bike a few weeks ago so I can buy a house. For those that have questions about this email me [email protected]

Hopefully soon I will buy another bike.

For those wondering if I am still doing these. I am sorry but I am not. It is so easy to do if you follow the steps.

 

[nate96]

http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
does this resistor start at 87 and switch to 87a when the high beam is switched on
or is it the other way around nate i dont get it does it start at 87a and switch to 87 when the highbeam switch is turned on

The resistor would be attached to 87a. Then a wire from 87 to after the resistor. I added this to the pic on the first page. Hope that helps.

 

[nate96]

SCREWBEAST- That does the same that I have done. Just way more expensive.

 

[nate96]

Hi everyone. I loved the idea of the dual headlights. So I followed the how-to guide very closely. I finished the project about a week ago and have been driving around all week with no problems. All of a sudden yesterday morning I hopped on the bike, started it up, and I didn't have ANY headlights anymore. I figured it either had to be a burnt headlight fuse or the bulbs burned out. I checked both and neither was bad. So I checked the box. It appears the resistor got so hot it melted part of the case. I believe it ruined the relay. So I took everything off and returned it to stock wiring and I'm still not getting any power through the headlight wires. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas?

Recreant- You either didnt use the correct size resistors, wired it wrong, or had some of the wires showing to get a short. In the Cut Off switch, if the wire comes off you wont get any lights. Check there. If not there are some relays by the tank for the lights. Check those if its not the cut off switch. With out me actually seeing what was done or happened, its hard to diagnose the problem.

My bike which I no longer have, has 10 000 miles since being done. The only problem was after the girl that bought my bike dropped it, and the Cut Off switch wire came loose. Fixed that and its still going.

 

[nate96]

i wired the resistor straight from lowbeam power to high beam power and everything worked fine as planned...for a lil while until my lights went out. somewhere along the line i went wrong..gotta go back and check to see what went out:banghead::banghead::banghead:

You just want the high beam side low all the time. Just put the resistors inline on the high beam side. Leave the low beam side alone and just keep the headlight switch on high beams all the time.

 

[nate96]

Also check how you wired it. The first time I did it, I wired it wrong and got a short. It just made the ohms go up so less amperage was drawn and the lights would not go on. But there was nothing else wrong to blow the fuse. So if you had your wires to close and hit a bump and caused a short, this could be why aswell.