it doesn't make either light brigher, but rather makes the high beam on (but less bright) while the low is on, and when you hit your high beam switch, your high beam goes to full intensity
Is the Wire C the original Positive line connected to E?nate96 said:Power the Relay
- Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the bike side at C.
- Strip back wire 4 and C
- Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink
Do you splice line 3 into D? or it needs to be cut completely (3 ends being soldered or 2 ends?) The reason I ask is because your diagram shows 3 wires are connected.nate96 said:Ground the Relay
- Cut the High Beam negative side at D(Black ). Make sure to leave enough length so you can solder on new connections.( I added some more wire to mine)
- Cut a piece of heat shrink about 1.5” long and place over the wire going to the relay.
- Strip back wire 3 and D
- Solder Both ends together
- Allow to cool a bit then move the heat shrink over the connection and shrink
- Remove the piece over the double sided tape and mount permanently
Never mind I found your other post with the diagramlexus said:Hey Nate,
Nice write up! but im a little bit confused. Could you put the relay numbers on your diagram?
85, 86, 87, 87a, 30 example is here
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
Cheers mate, cause when i wired them all up in parallel they did nothing at all, the relay would clip on and off when high beam was on but the light itself did not changenate96 said:can you get 2-0.5 ohm 10W resistors. You could wire them series. Or 2-2.0ohm 10W resistors in parallel. You can get away with just 1-1.0ohm 10W resistor. As it will put out 8 Watts when hooked up. So it will just run hot. Just make sure to insulate very well if you do it that way. I can check tomorrow as I have all my stuff at work right now on using 0.5 ohms, or 1.5 ohms