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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,

I've gotten myself into a bit of a shitty situation here. I was putting frame sliders on my 2009 CBR and I ended up stripping the front-left mounting hole on the engine. Honda didn't tap the hole all the way through as they did the other side, so when I put the longer frame slider bolt through it it ended up ripping up all the untapped aluminium and I couldn't get it out again without ******* up the remaining threads. Well, if I knew better at the time I could have, but again, I'm a bit inexperienced with some of this.

If I wasn't as ignorant I wouldn't have been so dumb and checked the holes for tap threading when I realized the new bolts were longer. Lesson learned. I shall not ever make this mistake again.

So that being said, I have tried getting an M12 1.25 tap and retapping the hole in hopes I could salvage it, but there isn't enough thread left, it isn't holding. It just vibrates loose as the engine heats up and I'm riding the bike.

So that is where I'm at now, and I'm here for advice on how to handle it.

My thoughts were that if I could somehow loosen the engine just enough to tilt the front mounts down a couple inches, I could just drill out the mount hole and pop in a helicoil or threaded insert and I'm golden. Only thing is, I've never had to pull the engine out myself before and I don't know how much work is involved.

A mechanic is $75/hr to do it and could take a whole day apparently, and I do not have that kind of money to drop right now. So how hard is it to partially lower the engine? Are there many hoses/lines I'd have to disconnect? Could I do it without removing the axle the chain sprocket is on? Is that an easier way I'm unaware of? I don't want to drill the frame hole bigger the bolt goes through as I really need to use the bolt I'm currently using or the frame slider wont fit securely and safely.

Can I just remove 2-3 of the mounting bolts and leave 2 in and tilt it down without disconnecting anything else at all? If so, that would be the ideal, and I'd be happier than a pig in ****.
 

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On my extra 07 case both mounts are tapped all the way through.

It seems like more trouble than it's worth though. Just put a a nut on the other side. A normal hex will fit there, put a crush washer on the back side because the surface is not quite flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
On my extra 07 case both mounts are tapped all the way through.
So apparently mine was botched a bit by whoever tapped it at the factory >.<

It seems like more trouble than it's worth though. Just put a a nut on the other side. A normal hex will fit there, put a crush washer on the back side because the surface is not quite flat.
There's not enough bolt coming out of the back to put a nut on it. Maybe 1/4 of an inch on the end of the bolt pokes through. Just enough to mess up the threads but not enough to nut/bolt it >.<
 

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A longer bolt with a nut at the back will be just fine. You will stil be able to tighten it to the recommended torque assthe thread in a steel nut is in any case much stronger than the thread in the aluminium casing. Just make sure you get a longer bolt with a nut. Try to stay with the M12 x 1,25 pitch as a finer thread is much stronger.
 

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You road around with it stripped and it would fall out. Putting a nut on a longer bolt isn't going to be any less safe. You will be fine. Toque it to speck and your good.
 
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