Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have browsed these forums and tried what others have done and it still stalls...

I have an 05 600rr with 32k on it, has NO performance modifications fully stock exhaust, no PCIII, stock sprocket etc... I have integrated blinkers in the tail light (with relays) and flushmounts in the front. everything else is stock...

I don't do wheelies, I get into corners at about 100+ sometimes but really... thats what it's designed for so I wouldnt say that's really beating it.

Had this issue for about 2-3 months now...

I will be riding and randomly without any prior symptoms or bumps in the road and the motor cuts out. (oil light comes on but I have plenty and freshly changed) clock and trips all stay correct.

I pull the clutch in and let it out and it starts right back up. (this has happened going 5, 40, 65 and once at 80mph going around a corner and about put me down...)

One thing that happens every time it dies while riding is...

Once it starts back up when I come to a stop and pull the clutch in, the bike drops down to idle at 1.5 like normal then clicks off. It does this every time once the bike had died while riding.

I have let it idle for over and hour sitting in one spot and it never died...

I have taken apart and cleaned the kickstand switch and even kept the switch detached and zip tied to disengaged so it does not move from being set to up.

This is random and I do not think anything to do with temperature... last week it happened after riding for 30 minutes under 40 miles total... two weeks ago I rode 180 miles with only one stop and the bike never died...

thoughts?

Based on friends opinions and shops i have called....

Ignition Coils
Wiring Harness
Bad/dirty injectors
Stator
Kickstand and/or kill switch
Ground

I have checked and lubricated and verified everything on the wiring harness, checked all fuses, checked battery connections, checked all ground wires and have ran at least 20 takes of gas through it since this issue started.

when the bike is running it runs perfect and strong.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,330 Posts
When the bike dies does your tach sweep again or just turn off and the oil light comes on?
This will tell if it's cycling power. "kill switch,key"
does it always die when you are off throttle or is this part random as well?
Bike starts fine?
Even after the bike is warmed up 200+ you can turn it off and start it right back up?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,991 Posts
my friend had the same problem, riding riding and the bike shuts off on its own when it feels like. we figured out the battery wasnt connected tight so we fixed it up and no problem since.... and im talking about the F2
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
Hey mate, is this still happening to you? If not what was the problem in the end? I've got essentially the same problem at the moment. I think it is my alternator as my voltage readings are b/w 12.4 and 13.9 when the bike is off, on, idle and on revving in neutral.

Anyways would be interested in finding out what was causing your problem!

Hello,

I have browsed these forums and tried what others have done and it still stalls...

I have an 05 600rr with 32k on it, has NO performance modifications fully stock exhaust, no PCIII, stock sprocket etc... I have integrated blinkers in the tail light (with relays) and flushmounts in the front. everything else is stock...

I don't do wheelies, I get into corners at about 100+ sometimes but really... thats what it's designed for so I wouldnt say that's really beating it.

Had this issue for about 2-3 months now...

I will be riding and randomly without any prior symptoms or bumps in the road and the motor cuts out. (oil light comes on but I have plenty and freshly changed) clock and trips all stay correct.

I pull the clutch in and let it out and it starts right back up. (this has happened going 5, 40, 65 and once at 80mph going around a corner and about put me down...)

One thing that happens every time it dies while riding is...

Once it starts back up when I come to a stop and pull the clutch in, the bike drops down to idle at 1.5 like normal then clicks off. It does this every time once the bike had died while riding.

I have let it idle for over and hour sitting in one spot and it never died...

I have taken apart and cleaned the kickstand switch and even kept the switch detached and zip tied to disengaged so it does not move from being set to up.

This is random and I do not think anything to do with temperature... last week it happened after riding for 30 minutes under 40 miles total... two weeks ago I rode 180 miles with only one stop and the bike never died...

thoughts?

Based on friends opinions and shops i have called....

Ignition Coils
Wiring Harness
Bad/dirty injectors
Stator
Kickstand and/or kill switch
Ground

I have checked and lubricated and verified everything on the wiring harness, checked all fuses, checked battery connections, checked all ground wires and have ran at least 20 takes of gas through it since this issue started.

when the bike is running it runs perfect and strong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,308 Posts
Your battery is either toast, or loosely connected.
New battery and I bet I won't stall again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
216 Posts
I had a similar problem on mine... started last year on a track day going full throttle down a straight. Bike showed FI and shut the engine off.... A quick turn of the ignition and it started back up so i thought maybe some loose wiring....

The problem got worse over time and it would shutoff a lot while riding on street too, almost every single bump meant shutoff.

Looking under the seat in the box where the fuses and relays are, well there was one labeled "engine shut-off" , quick look underneath it was all blue... replaced it with the Headlight relay till i got a new one.

Have a look at that
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
My '07 did this the other day =/ Im trying to be optimistic....
Check your battery with a multimeter whilst the bike is off, on and revving above 5-6k rmp. SHould read b/w 12.4 and 13.9. If it goes above 14 then your reg/rec is gone and any more riding will wreck your electrical system.

Btw my voltages were after I got a new battery and after the problem occurred again after 3 days. My mechanic friend is picking up my bike tomorrow and will let me know what the problem is. I think I've just fried a $265AUD Yuasa battery, fark. I have a feeling my bike's problem is the stator/alternator rather than the regulator/rectifier.

Btw for those bikes 03-04 and from what I've read early 05, they all use the same regulator/rectifier which are more prone to dying due to heat (due to their location and lack of surrounding heat sheilding) so the remedy for a dead reg/rec is to by a late model 05 one. We'll see what is wrong with mine. ...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,137 Posts
Check your battery with a multimeter whilst the bike is off, on and revving above 5-6k rmp. SHould read b/w 12.4 and 13.9. If it goes above 14 then your reg/rec is gone and any more riding will wreck your electrical system.

Btw my voltages were after I got a new battery and after the problem occurred again after 3 days. My mechanic friend is picking up my bike tomorrow and will let me know what the problem is. I think I've just fried a $265AUD Yuasa battery, fark. I have a feeling my bike's problem is the stator/alternator rather than the regulator/rectifier.

Btw for those bikes 03-04 and from what I've read early 05, they all use the same regulator/rectifier which are more prone to dying due to heat (due to their location and lack of surrounding heat sheilding) so the remedy for a dead reg/rec is to by a late model 05 one. We'll see what is wrong with mine. ...
To put it bluntly (but I'm not trying to be rude)

Your wrong.

At 5-6k rpm with the highbeam on you want the voltage to be below 15.5V, anything higher than that and your risking damage to your electrical system and turning your battery into a time bomb ready to take your balls off.

Overcharging a battery will cause it to overheat and normally the pressure relief valve will blow steam and acid vapour out of the battery and it will whistle however it is not uncommon for large amounts of hydrogen to be released at the same time and then all it takes is a spark.

From experience:
You should expect an optimum charging voltage of ~14.4V
A no-load perfect battery should read 13.2V, however 12.8V is more realistic. IMO anything lower than 13.2V on the charging system is bad, and anything lower than 12.2V on the battery is bad.

You are however spot on about the crappy 03-04 rr, get a late 05 or an 06 one when the original one fails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Yo dude, I had the same problem, but mine was because the dealer didn't tighten the Alarm wire in the ignition switch. I had the Scorpion i900. Got that fixed and never happened again, electrical is a pain in the @$$
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
To put it bluntly (but I'm not trying to be rude)

Your wrong.

At 5-6k rpm with the highbeam on you want the voltage to be below 15.5V, anything higher than that and your risking damage to your electrical system and turning your battery into a time bomb ready to take your balls off.

Overcharging a battery will cause it to overheat and normally the pressure relief valve will blow steam and acid vapour out of the battery and it will whistle however it is not uncommon for large amounts of hydrogen to be released at the same time and then all it takes is a spark.

From experience:
You should expect an optimum charging voltage of ~14.4V
A no-load perfect battery should read 13.2V, however 12.8V is more realistic. IMO anything lower than 13.2V on the charging system is bad, and anything lower than 12.2V on the battery is bad.

You are however spot on about the crappy 03-04 rr, get a late 05 or an 06 one when the original one fails.
Ill check it this weekend and post my findings. Thanks guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
Looking under the seat in the box where the fuses and relays are, well there was one labeled "engine shut-off" , quick look underneath it was all blue... replaced it with the Headlight relay till i got a new one.

Have a look at that
Definatly gonna take a peek at this first. HOPEFULLY my case is as simple as that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
199 Posts
Hey man, I had a similar problem after I washed my bike one day.

What it ended up being was that the ground bolt wasn't tightened all the way, that way when you hit a bump or something, everything cuts out. But almost at random.

Check your ground, it's on the left side.

Good luck bro!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
Yo dude, I had the same problem, but mine was because the dealer didn't tighten the Alarm wire in the ignition switch. I had the Scorpion i900. Got that fixed and never happened again, electrical is a pain in the @$$
Damn I forgot to subscribe to this thread. Well I also have a Scorpio i900 alarm. I'm sure my mate would have checked that but maybe I'll specifically ask him to do it. Wish me luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
442 Posts
Yo dude, I had the same problem, but mine was because the dealer didn't tighten the Alarm wire in the ignition switch. I had the Scorpion i900. Got that fixed and never happened again, electrical is a pain in the @$$
Dude, this was exactly my problem. My alarm wire came loose over time, I decided to take out the alarm and the bike has been runnning sweet ever since. Not sure if i want the alarm back as it makes me feel nervous and paranoid but loving having my bike up and running again!
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top