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Hey guys,

I'm having engine troubles that I just can't seem to wrap my head around and I need help. I have a 2011 Honda CBR 600RR that has 8,000 miles on it. I've put 5k on it myself. I took it to the dealer for the 8k check. Probably not the best move but I don't like wrenching on this. I save that for my dirtbike. They changed fluids, chain tension and similar things to those. They said they didn't touch the engine. I went to pick it up and the battery was dead while the bike was sitting in their maintenance bay. That's embarrassing if you ask me. We jumped it and I rode it home with no issues.

Here's the problem. I went to ride it about a week later and the battery was dead again. Makes sense if it won't hold a charge. I went to jump it myself and I screwed up by using a car. It didn't even cross my mind at the time to not do that. My screw up. I trailer it to the dealer to have them look at it. He came back and said the compression was at 25 in all cylinders. Long story short I was already frustrated with the dealer so I trailer'd it to another shop. They say, and I trust them, that all four cylinders completely failed a leak down test. 100% passage. His thought is bad exhaust valves. That's a huge job to pull the motor to look and see.

My issue is that the bike has never been rode hard or red lined. I think it's an electrical issue because I can't see how I can ride a bike home with zero issues, that day or ever, and then 10 days later there is barely any compression and 100% leak. So my question is..Is there anything electrical that could have been fried from the jump start? Does the ECU control the exhaust valves in anyway? The dash lights, headlights etc all work so I would think if the ECU was bad then nothing electrical would work? Is there a fuse or anything like that downline from the ECU that could be burned? The bike has an exhaust servo motor that could be toasted and I know the bike wont start if the ECU doesn't recognize that servo plugged in. Even if it was bad you would still have good compression on a test right? I almost want to put a new ECU in and see what happens before spending $1500 to pull the engine and head.

Any ideas or thoughts is greatly appreciated guys. I'm average with mechanical knowledge and all my guys I talk to that are way smarter than I am are also stunned that a low mileage bike that didn't have any problems now has low compression and zero leak.

Thanks fellas
 

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Well damn! Sorry to hear.

Tbh i have nothing of value here except remorse! Ive never heard or seen anything like this.

Maybe have a good look at all the wiring and all connections and look for anything burnt or melted.

But sorry to say a failed leak down test isnt going to be electrical.
 

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Something doesn't add up.......but 2nd comp check is kinda confirmation?

OTF - I've never read of an 07+ motor losing comp over all 4 cyl..... and at at this mileage/history it doesnt make sense.

at this point, valve clearance check is next step.....?

FYI - my 09 was broken in "dyno style" (warm up good, then repeated runs to above 11krpm, roll off, repeat X times, and 2 oil changes before 600 mile dealer service)

at 18K miles brought in to dealer, who had a good young mech named Jared.

16K service done, valve clearances checked.

Jared "15 of 16 exh valves are loose by .001" and "I got all valves back to 0.000"s on int. and exh."

Exh valves had loosened?, intake valves OK.

maybe, you've got a call for early valve clearance check?
 

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Thinking your bike had fuel wash down the cylinders which us giving you a "false" low compression reading. I've heard of this, mostly in two strokes with bad carb floats but have seen various things do it to four strokes at times. Basically there is nothing there to "seal" the air in for a leak down test so it appears there is no compression.

Put a syringe full of oil into each cylinder and see if compression comes back. If it does you need to deal with a new shop because they both suck. If it's the original battery most likely it's time for a new one, that is all once you get compression back.

It's not a bad ECU stopping it from having compression.

So couple questions:

How did you jump start the bike from a car, with the car engine running? That's a no no but if the car was off that shouldn't be an issue.

How could the exhaust servo be "toasted"? Is there something mechanically wrong with it? It either works or it doesn't. That also is not a compression factor.

What other mods have you done to the bike? Was/is it wrecked?
 

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Did you tell the second shop what the first shop had told you? 4 cylinders failing leak down is almost unheard of... Either someone was in there and completely messed up or your shops are trying to take you for a ride..

My tip would be to get yourself a leakdown tester and test it. Its not very hard just pop your spark plug out, set the tester in have a buddy come over to hold a breaker bar on the crank so it doesn't turn over on you..

Side note you HAVE to have a fully charged battery for a compression test... If your battery is crap and they test your compression its going to show low.... So inexperience may play a factor in your compression test..
 

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Hang on, first you said you brought it in for the cam chain tensioner and then very soon after apparently all of your exhaust valves start leaking?

How probable is it that they messed up the timing on the exhaust cam?...just seems very unlikely to me that you could burn all the exhaust valves in that short of a time period.
 

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Hang on, first you said you brought it in for the cam chain tensioner and then very soon after apparently all of your exhaust valves start leaking?

How probable is it that they messed up the timing on the exhaust cam?...just seems very unlikely to me that you could burn all the exhaust valves in that short of a time period.
It say "chain tension" not cam chain. My guess is it's the drive chain that needed looking at.
 

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Hang on, first you said you brought it in for the cam chain tensioner and then very soon after apparently all of your exhaust valves start leaking?

How probable is it that they messed up the timing on the exhaust cam?...just seems very unlikely to me that you could burn all the exhaust valves in that short of a time period.
It say "chain tension" not cam chain. My guess is it's the drive chain that needed looking at.
I think you're right...good catch dude.

Not trying to make an excuse but that stuff I did myself since it's quite straightforward and the breakeven point for the torque wrench and 32mm socket I purchased was IIRC just a few adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Sorry I didn't really specify but not the cam chain...the maintenance the dealer did were fluids and checking sprockets and chain tension and that sort of stuff. The shouldn't have touched anything internally. About the only thing that seems logical at the moment is that they didn't put oil back in the engine. I will find that out this afternoon.
 

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If you road the bike with no oil you would have known immediately upon startup.... The metal on metal sound would have been disturbing and then your engine would seize up almost immediately....
 

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If you road the bike with no oil you would have known immediately upon startup.... The metal on metal sound would have been disturbing and then your engine would seize up almost immediately....
Would it really be that drastic that quickly? Like say if you're going down the road and for some reason your drain plug came off, assuming you didn't notice it or wreck because of the oil slick, would the engine really seize up almost immediately?
 

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I have read from others in the forum that the dregs are enough to run the engine for a bit without it seizing - probably not long and not at race pace. The dash would be going off at that point though, as there would be no oil pressure.
 

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Would it really be that drastic that quickly? Like say if you're going down the road and for some reason your drain plug came off, assuming you didn't notice it or wreck because of the oil slick, would the engine really seize up almost immediately?
If your drain plug fell out you would almost certainly notice it. If not from the sound, the oil slicked rear tire you would have would also be a dead give away.

But to answer your question the top end would starve immediately and your temps would spike and then your piston will either fuse to the cylinder or it will break lose and make a surprise visit through your case causing all kinds of mayhem.

If you are doing an oil change and for some reason you forget to fill your bike with oil and you start it the chances of it seizing are small as long as you shut it off immediately, riding it at all is guaranteed to cause catastrophic failure.
 

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If your drain plug fell out you would almost certainly notice it. If not from the sound, the oil slicked rear tire you would have would also be a dead give away.

But to answer your question the top end would starve immediately and your temps would spike and then your piston will either fuse to the cylinder or it will break lose and make a surprise visit through your case causing all kinds of mayhem.

If you are doing an oil change and for some reason you forget to fill your bike with oil and you start it the chances of it seizing are small as long as you shut it off immediately, riding it at all is guaranteed to cause catastrophic failure.
Very interesting stuff. Thanks brotha.
 

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Youtube people running engines without oil. They make it a good 5min before they seize. I didn't believe it until I watched myself. On the flip side I've seen a video of my old shop teaching draining a small block chevy, wiring the throttle open, starting the engine and running away. Made it 2 seconds before a rod went out the block and over his shoulder as he ran.
 
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