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Discussion Starter #1
I know this is like swearing in here but yes I am fitting Nitrous to my bike, I do high speed runs every year and this year I changed my sprockets from 16/43 to 17/41 and found that the gearing is too long for the power the bike makes, so I am getting a Dynojet Nitrous kit to give me a bit of a boost.

I can't find any decent write ups on either fitting or using Nitrous on the bike so I will be doing one here.

If you don't like Nitrous please keep your negative comments to yourself, this will be a write up for those that are actually interested in knowing how to fit it and how effective it will be.

I live in New Zealand so the kit is still winging its way to me but when it gets here and I fit it I will post up pics and hopefully some video as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I saw that one, It just wasn't as in depth on the fitting and actual use of it as I was hoping for
 

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There is absolutely nothing wrong with NOS. Especially if your using it in competitive drag racing.
Keep us posted and a write up would be great . Since no would had really made one .. Yet . Pics and videos are always awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So the kit finally turned up, thank you customs for slowing it right down, I will try to get it fitted as soon as I can, but I have quite a bit on at the moment, in saying that the event I got it for is in 3 weeks so I can't mess about too much.
20131015_083217 (Medium).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I got a couple of evenings free and fitted the kit, it probably took me around 6 hours total, and that was with a wee bit of confusion over the wiring, overall it was pretty easy to fit. Obviously I started with stripping the bike down.





Then I used the mounting bracket to mount the bottle off the rear foot rest.





I found that the foot rest was touching the face of the gauge when it was folded up so I cut the spacers in half, then I found the bracket was hitting a bolt so I notched the bracket and it all fitted up nicely. As it turned out I probably didn't need to do this part, I realised after we did it that the gauge face is plastic rather than glass so is unlikely to be broken by the foot rest, I was just being overly cautious.



I screwed the braided line into the bottle bracket (On all fittings under pressure I used teflon paste) and then ran it upwards, across the bike, under the tank and in front of the battery to the solenoid that I fitted on the left side of the bike off the front bolt of the left foot rest using the solenoid bracket that came with the kit. I trimmed some of the plastic along the edge behind where I mounted the solenoid to allow it to sit back in a bit further. Before fitting the solenoid to the bike I put the chosen size jet into it, to start with I just went with the 15HP jet but the kit come with a 30HP and a 40HP, when I tune it I will probably up it to the 30HP jet.



 

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Discussion Starter #12
Then off came the cover for the computer, I unplugged the computer and air temperature sensor and took the top off the air box.



The nozzles go into the airbox and are pointed at the air temperature sensor to trick it into adding more fuel (even though I will be having a custom map made up for my Power Commander)





Before putting the top of the airbox back on I had to make a small modification, the nozzles would have been shooting straight into the sides of those pipes that drop down into the box so I cut them off. For those that don't know, that white piece sticking through the top of the airbox is the air temperature sensor that the nozzles are aimed at.




Then I ran the nitrous feed lines from the nozzles to a central T fitting, then the line goes down under the tank and around the back of the battery and into the solenoid.




 

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Discussion Starter #13
With that done that's all the plumbing sorted so I moved on to the wiring. I decided to fit the ON/OFF switch inside the small lock box on the right hand side of the bike because it allows me to hide the switch away (I won't be using this system most of the time because nitrous is actually illegal for use on the street here in New Zealand) so I drilled a hole in the side of it and fed the solenoid wires across the bike, under the end of the tank to it (I had to extend them because they aren't very long)





Next step is to unplug the connections from the horn and make new wires up that go from those wires to the switch (On an '04 the positive is the green wire and negative is the white with green stripe) and also new wires that go from the horn to the switch. There are a couple of different ways that it can be wired up depending on your bike and how you want to have it set up, the way I chose is to have it wired to the horn button, when the switch is off the horn button works normally but when the switch is on it activates the solenoid. The instructions that come with the kit are really good and the kit came with all the connections and extra wire that I needed to fit it.






With the wiring done it was all fitted and after a quick test the solenoid was working properly on the horn button. I put all the fairings back on and found that where I had mounted the solenoid I needed to cut a small piece out of the tail section to fit around it. Other than that it was a nice fit and I'm pretty happy with how it all went, the kit was fairly easy to install and came with everything that I needed.


 

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Discussion Starter #14
So now all I need to do is get the bottles filled and have it tuned, I will be getting an everyday map made and a nitrous map. Dynotune say that you can run it as is on a standard bike with the nozzles aimed at the air temperature sensor for the extra fuel for normal riding and even 1/4 miles, but because I will be using it for top speed runs with longer gearing I will be getting it tuned properly just to be safe.
I did a couple of walk around videos between the plumbing and wiring stages while everything was still apart that I'll put together and post when I get around to finishing them off, I'll also do a video of the dyno runs when I get it tuned and of a high speed run when it's in use.

While I had it in pieces I also fitted my home made tail tidy, considering it was made from a cut off piece from a loading ramp I think it came out looking ok.




Cheers for reading guys, I know it was a long post but I hope you enjoyed it and it helps any of you thinking of fitting a kit as well.
 

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Great write up. As a drag racer I am no stranger to nitrous. My mustang was a 408ci small block with 2 stages (150hp first stage and a 250hp second stage) on a progressive controller. Its a great power adder as it runs great without it and is only there when you need it.

My only thought is that you must be running at W.O.T when using nitrous. I always run a 12v feed from a TPS to make sure it will not activate unless the throttle is at W.O.T.

I have not sprayed a bike yet so no clue if its different. Just spit balling here. Can't wait to see some runs!!!

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Dynotune kits don't come with a W.O.T switch, but I'm sure you could add it, I won't be hitting the switch below about 9,000-10,000 revs so I think it will be ok, I'm going to find out anyway!! haha
 

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Update!?!?!?!?!?!?
 

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