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2011 cbr600RR bought crashed have never seen it run, thought tonight would be the night guess not.lol fuel pump won’t prime Tryd The usual stuff fuses,relays ect ect ect
Wondering
if anyone can tell me how run a 12v jumper directly to this pump to see if it’s working.. thanks for any help
Automotive lighting Fluid Water Gas Auto part
 

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Easier to just put meter on harness plugs for pump and see if there's power.

Proper way to test pump is measure impedance across terminals. DC motors have range of impedances based upon motor windings. If terminals shows short or open-circuit, pump's bad. Passive testing, less likely to blow up pump by getting power wires crossed or accidentally shorted. If pump's good and you mess up applying power to it, then you've busted it and know for sure it's bad. Pumps rarely go bad, but they get clogged up from debris and dried petrol. So even if you apply power to pump and hear it spin, it may not actually flow enough petrol at sufficient pressure to run engine.


In this case, most likely, ECU is not activating fuel-pump relay, or engine-stop or fuel-pump relay isn't activating. Test and measure voltage:

1. into and out of ignition-switch; key ON

2. into and out of kill-switch

3. power to engine-stop relay when kill-switch set to RUN

4. power to fuel-pump relay when engine-stop relay activates

5. power out of fuel-pump relay when activated

6. power actually making it to fuel-pump connector (broken wires, corroded connectors)

So basically follow path of electricity from battery to fuel-pump. There's multiple places where power can disappear. Where power stops, shows problem is between that spot and previous one that did have power.

Also test BAS circuit. Working BAS provides ground to engine-stop relay's activation coil. If this line isn't properly grounded, relay won't work and it won't turn on fuel-pump relay.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have power leading all the way up to the one plug that runs the fuel gauge, no
Power to the other one. when I turn the key on doesn’t have a jump in power to the pump plug, I don’t hear the relay click should I hear it ? I thought normally I do hear a click but it’s been along time since I’ve owned one of the 600s?
 

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I have power leading all the way up to the one plug that runs the fuel gauge, no
Power to the other one. when I turn the key on doesn’t have a jump in power to the pump plug, I don’t hear the relay click should I hear it ? I thought normally I do hear a click but it’s been along time since I’ve owned one of the 600s?
This is 5-minute fix with multimeter, often less.

Relays are mixed lot, some click and transfer power, some transfer power without clicking. Others will click, but not transfer any power. And some unruly ones refuse to click and not transfer any power whatsoever. Only 100% sure way to know for sure is to measure actual voltage on output line of relay.

Since it's two relays in series with engine-stop relay activating fuel-pump relay. One may be bad and you won't have pump power. Or other may be bad and you won't have fuel-pump power. Or both could be bad. Or both may actually be perfectly good, but ground-wire to engine-stop relay may not be connected through BAS. Or ECU's not activating fuel-pump relay.

This is actually easiest test since it's only ONE measurement of continuity (ohms) to chassis-ground on that line. That single ground-wire has power and precedence over everything else! Every single part of EFI system: crank sensors, ignition/kill/start switch, ECU, injectors, coils, wiring, TPS, MAP, ECT, IAT sensors, relays and fuel-pump can be in perfect working condition, but bike won't run because that single wire may be disconnected or broken.

If you want to do boolean-logic with parts swapping and process of elimination, might as well replace every single part in EFI system with brand-new OEM from authorised Honda dealer. Then you won't have to measure and test single part.
 
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I have power leading all the way up to the one plug that runs the fuel gauge, no
Power to the other one. when I turn the key on doesn’t have a jump in power to the pump plug, I don’t hear the relay click should I hear it ? I thought normally I do hear a click but it’s been along time since I’ve owned one of the 600s?
Fuel-level sender gets power from dash, so not related to fuel-pump circuit in any way.

Again, trace path of power starting at battery, all way to fuel-pump and where it disappears is your problem.

0. measure voltage at battery. Volts = ???

1a. Voltage going INTO ignition-switch = ???

1b. Key ON, voltage going OUT of ignition-switch = ???

2. into and out of kill-switch

3. power to engine-stop relay when kill-switch set to RUN

4. power to fuel-pump relay when engine-stop relay activates

5. power out of fuel-pump relay when activated

6. power actually making it to fuel-pump connector (broken wires, corroded connectors)


It's like garden-hose. You've got water-tap that sprays water out just fine. When garden-hose connected, no water comes out other end. You can't sit at end and wonder "Do I have wrong sprayer nozzle connected?". or "What if I connect a sprinkler?". No, to find problem, you have to start at source, water-tap, and work your way through hose to see where water disappears....
 

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I wish we all knew electrical circuits as well as you dannoxyz! Damn glad you're here!
Why thank you! 👋

I've got lots of background in performance side of motorsports. When I lived in Santa Barbara, I had shoppe specialising in Porsche Turbo models. Aside from usual building of racecars:


Biggest benefits offered was complete upgrade of EFI system.


With brand-new custom harness made for specific vehicle it's going into.


I'd also build and integrate wideband-O2 for fine-tuning without needing dyno.


With EFI system alone, we were able to get +100bhp! With no hardware upgrades to engine at all! :)
 

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I have power leading all the way up to the one plug that runs the fuel gauge, no
Power to the other one. when I turn the key on doesn’t have a jump in power to the pump plug, I don’t hear the relay click should I hear it ? I thought normally I do hear a click but it’s been along time since I’ve owned one of the 600s?
Whoops, skipped ahead too quickly.

0.5. Pull every single fuse from fusebox and measure them. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK", but actually didn't conduct electricity.



And you can't assume replacing with brand-new fuse ensures it's working. With crappy quality of parts nowadays, introducing additional variable of new fuse to system can make problems even more complicated. I once got "good deal" on 100 assorted fuses. Turned out close to 1/2 was defective. So if you replaced fuse to ensure they're good, might not be. Only way to know for sure is to measure them and verify they can conduct electricity! For that effort, faster and easier to just measure ones on bike.

I actually fired technician/mechanic over this. Customer car came in that didn't start. Spark test showed no spark, so must be ignition coil right? Amateur shotgunning of parts ensued: coil, nope, then plugs and wires, nope. Distributor, rotor and cap, Nope. Also suspected and blamed no fuel. So shotgun that system too with new fuel-pump, fuel-filtre, FPR, fuel-lines/hoses, fuel-rail and injectors... nope no start. Must be ECU if BOTH spark and fuel no good right? Nope... After 2-days of him frantic ripping apart entire engine-compartment swapping every imaginable part, I asked him, "Did you measure all fuses?". Turned out EFI fuse was blown!!!

Again, many of these "problems" are 5-minute fix with multimeter (or less). Don't make it any more difficult than necessary. Every single part of EFI system: crank & cam sensors, ignition/kill/start switch, ECU, injectors, coils, wiring, TPS, MAP, ECT, IAT sensors, relays and fuel-pump can be tested and confirmed good or bad without removing single thing from bike by just measuring with meter.

It's like petrol gauge, you don't have to guess by opening gas-cap and peering inside. Or having to flip petcock between ON vs. reserve. Gauge gives you instant state of petrol tank. Multimeter is same, gives you instant non-interference state of every electrical component without having to yank them out of bike and putting them back and possibly damaging them or wiring in process.
 

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Alright, after confirming start of circuit: battery measures OK and all fuses measure OK, we move to next junction in circuit.

0.75. Measure voltage at B-terminal of starter solenoid.



Power often disappears at this point after battery & starter-solenoid replacement because cables were re-installed backwards. Simple 30-second test to catch and verify this common no-power problem rather than desperately swapping more parts and scratching head.

https://www.600rr.net/threads/no-start-no-power-to-harness-plug-into-starter-solenoid.587415
https://www.motorcycleforum.com/threads/xr650l-2007-wiring-problem.249971
https://www.ninjette.org/forums/showthread.php?t=345904 - I think this guy never measured, just figured out info we're looking for and parroted back
 

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After starter-solenoid, power goes to ignition-switch



1a. Voltage going INTO ignition-switch, red wire. volts = ???

1b. Key ON, voltage going OUT of ignition-switch, red/blk wire.
volts= ???
 

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Whoops, skipped ahead too quickly.

0.5. Pull every single fuse from fusebox and measure them. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK", but actually didn't conduct electricity.



And you can't assume replacing with brand-new fuse ensures it's working. With crappy quality of parts nowadays, introducing additional variable of new fuse to system can make problems even more complicated. I once got "good deal" on 100 assorted fuses. Turned out close to 1/2 was defective. So if you replaced fuse to ensure they're good, might not be. Only way to know for sure is to measure them and verify they can conduct electricity! For that effort, faster and easier to just measure ones on bike.

I actually fired technician/mechanic over this. Customer car came in that didn't start. Spark test showed no spark, so must be ignition coil right? Amateur shotgunning of parts ensued: coil, nope, then plugs and wires, nope. Distributor, rotor and cap, Nope. Also suspected and blamed no fuel. So shotgun that system too with new fuel-pump, fuel-filtre, FPR, fuel-lines/hoses, fuel-rail and injectors... nope no start. Must be ECU if BOTH spark and fuel no good right? Nope... After 2-days of him frantic ripping apart entire engine-compartment swapping every imaginable part, I asked him, "Did you measure all fuses?". Turned out EFI fuse was blown!!!

Again, many of these "problems" are 5-minute fix with multimeter (or less). Don't make it any more difficult than necessary. Every single part of EFI system: crank & cam sensors, ignition/kill/start switch, ECU, injectors, coils, wiring, TPS, MAP, ECT, IAT sensors, relays and fuel-pump can be tested and confirmed good or bad without removing single thing from bike by just measuring with meter.

It's like petrol gauge, you don't have to guess by opening gas-cap and peering inside. Or having to flip petcock between ON vs. reserve. Gauge gives you instant state of petrol tank. Multimeter is same, gives you instant non-interference state of every electrical component without having to yank them out of bike and putting them back and possibly damaging them or wiring in process.
This is why I always buy a factory service manual for my vehicles.
 

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This is why I always buy a factory service manual for my vehicles.
Yeah, Honda's service-manual is worth its weight in GOLD!!! Extremely well-written with quick & efficient troubleshooting flow-chart. And exact measurements needed for any particular part or issue. :)
 
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So after power leaves red/blk wire from ignition-switch, it goes to fuse-box and goes through Fuse B and heads towards engine-stop (kill) switch. Some more areas where power can disappear. We did measure and confirm Fuse B works right? Also if bike's been in crash, very likely kill-switch may be broken. Wire from Fuse B also powers igntion-coils. So if you don't have spark, look at Fuse B circuit...



Can back-probe connector of right-hand controls. No need to disconnect anything.

2a. key ON, measure power going INTO kill-switch, wht/blk wire, volts = ???

2b. kill-switch RUN, measure power going OUT of kill-switch, blk wire, volts = ???
 

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So now that you've traced flow of electricity and verify you have power at:
  • battery
  • ignition switch when key ON
  • engine-stop/kill switch output when RUN
We get to relays that send power to fuel-pump

Here's how sequence of events go:

a. engine-stop relay gets input power full-time from Fuse G, which is directly connected to battery, red wire
b. power from ignition-switch goes through Fuse B and goes out to engine-stop/kill switch, wht/yel
c. kill-switch RUN sends power out blk wire to activation-coil of engine-stop relay
d. engine-stop relay activates and sends input power out on blk/wht wire
e. blk/wht wire powers both input of fuel-pump relay and its activation coil
f. ECU grounds fuel-pump relay brn/blk wire with key ON or cranking
g. fuel-pump relay activates and sends power out to fuel-pump, brn wire

You can measure each of those steps above to verify power is flowing along path properly. If you measure lack of power somewhere along path where there SHOULD be power, then examine that spot back to previous tested point that did have power. Something may be disconnected, corroded or broken.

Also measure both ground legs of each relay's activation-coil. Engine-stop relay's ground, red/blu wire, should have continuity/zero-ohms to chassis-ground (through BAS). Fuel-pump relay's ground brn/blk is grounded by ECU when you turn key on to prime for 3-sec. And again when you crank engine.

That's it! How fuel-pump is powered in easy baby-steps!!! :)
 
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