· Super Moderator
Try switching out your fan relay with your Fuel-cut relay. You can also use a jumper wire if you know which 2 terminals to jump out. I don't know the color code for your bike.
This is why I always buy a factory service manual for my vehicles.Whoops, skipped ahead too quickly.
0.5. Pull every single fuse from fusebox and measure them. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK", but actually didn't conduct electricity.
And you can't assume replacing with brand-new fuse ensures it's working. With crappy quality of parts nowadays, introducing additional variable of new fuse to system can make problems even more complicated. I once got "good deal" on 100 assorted fuses. Turned out close to 1/2 was defective. So if you replaced fuse to ensure they're good, might not be. Only way to know for sure is to measure them and verify they can conduct electricity! For that effort, faster and easier to just measure ones on bike.
I actually fired technician/mechanic over this. Customer car came in that didn't start. Spark test showed no spark, so must be ignition coil right? Amateur shotgunning of parts ensued: coil, nope, then plugs and wires, nope. Distributor, rotor and cap, Nope. Also suspected and blamed no fuel. So shotgun that system too with new fuel-pump, fuel-filtre, FPR, fuel-lines/hoses, fuel-rail and injectors... nope no start. Must be ECU if BOTH spark and fuel no good right? Nope... After 2-days of him frantic ripping apart entire engine-compartment swapping every imaginable part, I asked him, "Did you measure all fuses?". Turned out EFI fuse was blown!!!
Again, many of these "problems" are 5-minute fix with multimeter (or less). Don't make it any more difficult than necessary. Every single part of EFI system: crank & cam sensors, ignition/kill/start switch, ECU, injectors, coils, wiring, TPS, MAP, ECT, IAT sensors, relays and fuel-pump can be tested and confirmed good or bad without removing single thing from bike by just measuring with meter.
It's like petrol gauge, you don't have to guess by opening gas-cap and peering inside. Or having to flip petcock between ON vs. reserve. Gauge gives you instant state of petrol tank. Multimeter is same, gives you instant non-interference state of every electrical component without having to yank them out of bike and putting them back and possibly damaging them or wiring in process.