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Discussion Starter #1
I had this problem about a year ago and it was resolved by bypassing the bank angle sensor. Now the fuel pump wont prime when I hit the kill switch. Ive checked the relays and they seem to be fine. Also tested the fuel pump by directly running power to it. Any ideas of what I should look at next? Thanks in advance.
 

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Sticky at the top of this section that's called "troubleshooting a bike that won't start" will have all the info you need in it.

Pretty sure it's your kill switch if you are a person who uses it a lot, VERY common problem on here so search for that as well.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mike I've been using that post all day to troubleshoot and here's what I've run into:

The fuel pump primes from direct 12 power and 12 power going into the fuel pump relay.

The bank angle sensor is bypassed correctly reading 0 (open) with a multimeter.

All the fuses are good including the one main 30a by the battery.

The neutral light is on. And the kickstand switch is disconnected.

I've tried priming the fuel pump at the 7 pin harness and I don't get anything. So that makes me think it's after the switch and before the relay. Any ideas?
 

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Hey Mate,

Did you check you check the fuel pump plug with a test light to see if power is running to it ? Another option is to check your fuses in the mid left of the fairings, and make sure the BAS is bypassed correctly by borrowing someone elses to see if it makes a difference, have you changed your ecu or anything ? is the Bike HISS secured and have the hiss plug disconnected on the right side of the airbox from the ignition barrell which cuts power if not connected, another thing is to test the kill switch from the sticky and see if the fuel pump primes or hear the relays kicking
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BAS sensor is bypassed correctly, The mutlimeter runs it as 0 (open) so thats good. After losing almost all hope I had my battery tested for CCA's and apparently it had 0 CCA's and 8V (fully charged). I bought a new batter and will update with results later on in the week. Hopefully the battery was just so dead it wasnt giving off any amps to turn over the relays.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The new battery did not work, but near the starter relay under the seat near the battery there is a red 4 wire harness thats not connected to anything at all. It splits off of the main battery loom and on the wiring diagram I have it says it belongs to the headlight relay? Is it possible that I could be missing a headlight relay randomly? I also didnt think that relay was under the seat regardless. Please HELP I'm getting desperate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i jumped the 2 wires from the harness and still got nothing when i turned the key.
 

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when you say you tested the fuel pump relay, how exactly did you do that?

did you remove the relay and check for power? your ecu switches the GROUND on the relay firing circuit. so it wouldn't hurt to run to ground the negative from the firing circuit yourself (just a small jumper wire from the pin on the plug to the negative terminal of your battery.

if that latches the relay then you have a dead switch in your ecu.

get a meter or a test light and make sure you have 12 volts on the positive side of the relay firing circuit and 12 volts on the common contact for the switched side of the relay.


it's difficult to explain how to troubleshoot an electrical circuit when all you have is text, i do this kind of thing all the time, but it's hard to explain.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How would that test the relay if I unplug it to get to the pin on the harness?
 

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Test what voltages are actually at the relay

Relays don't really fail man. they are shockingly reliable.

The 'relay test' is changing it out for a known good one. You could check the coil for resistance if you want
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I took all 3 relays to the local motorcycle shop to get the relays tested and 2 of them are bad. I'm ordering 2 relays tonight and keep you posted.
 

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Relays do fail, and regularly... just not on 12V systems. Probably seen less than a dozen myself, other than the starter solenoid that is.

OP, clean your kill switch contacts with an eraser, reassemble the kill switch (using dielectric grease) and see how you go.

After that, unplug your headlight and see if the bike will start.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Still waiting on the 2 relays to come in. They should be here tomorrow or Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hate to break it to you guys but it was the 2 bad relays. Runs perfect now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

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I started having an intermittent issue but heard from so many members to just leave that switch in the run position and just use the key & starter button...one day I'll open it up and clean out any corrosion but since it's been a mild winter so far I've been riding...acted up once briefly though.
 

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Hate to break it to you guys but it was the 2 bad relays. Runs perfect now. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Glad to hear you have it sorted, you are well and truly in the minority there with that problem...
 
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