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Discussion Starter #1
I used Andrewbox's instructions, but after I closed the window, I couldn't find the thread again. Also, I've added a couple pics. This was my first time doing ANYTHING to any type of brakes, so it took me about 2 hours, but I remember Andrew's thread said it should take about an hour.

Tools Needed:
Brake Lines
Ratchet Wrench (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm heads)
1 qt brake fluid (i used Motul RBF600)
Speedbleeders
plastic tubing
water bottle with water in it
rag and bucket of water

Got these from sumofallparts through the group buy; $125 front and rear


Front Lines
1. Put the bike up on stands, just to make it easier and safer


2. Removed the stock bleeder valve with 8mm wrench and replaced it with a speedbleeder on both sides. Bled the brake lines and the master cylinder.




3. Use 12mm wrench to remove brake line bolts on left and right sides.




4. Take off the bolts holding the brake lines to the front fender (8mm right side, 10mm left side)




5. Remove the bolt holding the lines just above the radiator (8mm). You can access it by turning the handlebars all the way to the right and ratcheting between the gauges and the handlebars.


6. Undo the bolt holding the lines to the master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
7. The left Galfer line (longer) goes on top of the right line, and the bolt goes up through the bottom (master cylinder-washer-line-washer-line-banjo bolt).


8. Bolt the Galfer lines to the master cylinder (14mm)


9. Route the lines through the space where the stock ones were, longer one goes on left side of the front fender, shorter on the right. Bolt in at 12.5 lb-ft torque (banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-caliper).




10. Use the bracket from the left side stock line, with or without the rubber piece, and bolt the Galfer line to the front fender (7 lb-ft)


11. Use the stock bracket w/ or w/out the rubber piece to bolt both of the lines right above the radiator.


12. Unscrew the master cylinder and bleed the brakes, with the rubber diaphragm piece out. Then, replace the cover.




Finished product:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Rear Lines
1. Unbolt the banjo bolt (12mm).


2. Bleed the rear brake.


3. Undo the right-side rear hugger bolt and remove the bracket.


4. Using the stock bracket with or without the rubber piece, bolt the hugger bolt back in, holding the Galfer line in place. Tighten the new banjo bolt at 12.5 lb-ft (14mm, banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-brake)


5. Bolt the banjo bolt to the caliper (banjo bolt-washer-line-washer-caliper) and bleed the brakes, with the rubber diaphragm out of the rear brake reservoir.

You're done!

I have a question though...do I keep the rubber diaphragm in the reservoirs once I'm done bleeding? I've had them in there for a day and it seems fine.
 

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Just did my install. Came out pretty well. If anyone has any trouble with the feel of the lever after the install try bleeding the master cylinder. Made a night/day difference!
 

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what are the Speedbleeders?
Correct me if I'm wrong ,but I believe it's a little valve that opens and lets you bleed the brakes when you grab the brakes and when you let go of the brakes, the valve closes so air does not go back into the lines.
 

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Thanks mate, a few questions if you don't mind;

- Is the right line secured anywhere on the front fender (like the left?).
- Have you used a different grade of brake fluid ... or the standard (dot4? I forget)
- I have read that you should bleed the banjo bolts as well, as they have lots of spaces where air can get trapped inside. Any comments?
- What is the best way to drain the old fluid before starting to dismantle? Sorry, I'm waiting for my lines to arrive, haven't even touched the brakes yet. As you can probably tell I have no practical experience at all .... just theoretical.
 

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Mine seam well short, if i route them the way the standard lines went they will be holdin the weight if the front wheel lifts on openin the throttle they that short!
 

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I tried doing this upgrade and I can't get my new lines too bleed, guesses? I hooked everything up like the pics on here, I don't know what I'm doing wrong
When you completely drain the lines and calipers bleeding can be frustrating. Just keep it up. Start with the longest line and slowly pump the brake lever when bleeding. Move to the other line and bleed that.
I usually bleed the master cylinder first to make sure the fluid is coming through.
It takes a while sometimes.
 

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anyone have a problem with the new brake line rubbing on the upper inside of the fairing?
thanks for any help/info

Al
 

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i forgot to add, only when turned all the way to the right (lock to lock)
Al
 

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When you completely drain the lines and calipers bleeding can be frustrating. Just keep it up. Start with the longest line and slowly pump the brake lever when bleeding. Move to the other line and bleed that.
I usually bleed the master cylinder first to make sure the fluid is coming through.
It takes a while sometimes.
Thanks, will get cracking on this as soon as I wake up :five:
 

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I have the same problem... rubs on the upper?
 

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I have the same problem... rubs on the upper?
I do. I installed HELs, not Galfers, but I have the rubbing problem. The only thing I did different from gdpgc is that I oriented the lines at the master cylinder to run like the OEM lines, in other words they extend from the master cylinder towards the rear of the bike. Looking at the pics, gdpgc somehow managed to get his lines to extend from the master cylinder towards the front of the bike. I don't even know if I can do that on mine - the clutch cable is right there. Anybody else installed brake lines lately who cares to chime in???
 

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i think thats what problem i had with the cable in the way
 

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So this might be a dumb question but for the banjo bolts, do the holes have to line up with the brake line? or can they be anyware? I don't want to over tighten the bolts but it doesn't seem they will line up without giving allot of force.
 
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