I solved my problem too - the lines were just too long. I measured the right length, sent them back to HEL, they cut them down to the right length and now everything is groovy. Both of my lines extend from the master cylinder towards the front of the bike, underneath the throttle cable.
HI have done the brakes now few times with this one. First time, I got fluid in the old pads, so I changed my new pads, bleed, done, it brakes really nice.
After couple of days, I saw a small leak on the left side banjo, I said, sh..t I did not properly tighten it, so I did some more, I went a bit pass the spec torque and BAAAAAAAAMMM, broke the bolt, thanks god it did not mess up the threads.
I replaced it with another banjo and reuse the old crush washers (wrooonng), again it worked flawlessly for couple of days, after few days, leaking again.
I finally got the new crush washers, question is, the sides are different, one side is completely flat and the other one is a bit curvy. So, how does it go on?
Flat side against bolt head (curvy against line) - line - flat side against line (curvy against caliper) ?
or the opposite:
Curvy side against Bolt head (flat against line) - line - curvy side against line (flat against caliper)
Help would be much appreciate!!.
Just do not want to have to do them again, or mess up the new crush washers.
if im installing a new rear brake res. should i install the res. first and then install the lines? also install brake pads.. should i install everything, then bleed... my only real Q is on the res ... im worried if i take off the old one will it leak everywhere
got my galfer lines. and i think or im pretty sure they're too FCKING long! WTF?!?!?!? the rear line stands out like a sore thumb with a kink sticking out the side of the swing arm. looking all ate up and ****.. and i bled and bled the **** out the system and still weak/mushy braking in the front. the rear brake is pretty weak too. not as strong as stock.. my front lines were also rubbing inside the fairings so i just zip tied them in the middle.
maybe i just need to be more patient and bleed more?
maybe they packed the wrong size lines even though the packaging say its for "07 CBR600r?"
im pretty pissed right now lol **** aint cheap and it aint working right.
You Bleed the MASTER CYLINDER 1st, then you bleed the RIGHT CALIPER 2nd, and the LEFT CALIPER 3rd... then get a feel of your brakes. and redo the process one more pump as recommended. and make sure the cup holding the brake fluid is NOT full to the top, this is due to when the pressure gets hot it expends upwards giving it room to expand and not holding your calipers tight with out you wanting it to...
Hey guys I dropped my 08 RR when I first got it doing a wheelie, I know I'm stupid. I decided to take a shot at painting the engine cover. Here is the damage.
Damage isn't THAT bad. However the ring from the small cap was scrapped so bad it was touching the larger cover. So I had to get the ring...
Theres lots of threads here suggesting not to bother or that the bleed is really difficult, Im yet to finish the job but figured it might help people to share my experiences,
I bought the Hel set of braided lines, due to the fact I was also installing rearsets the rear master cylinder to...
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So this is a long overdue guide to installing Bazzaz Fi and AFM goodness on your beautiful, shiny, but not-quite-fast-enough 07/08 600rr. True to our Laz-y-man theme of the day, I will refer you to another DIY by paul rider http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=100185 with the first steps...