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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Having a look around on the net and around dot net I found a bunch of DIY FEs and what not but didn't think much of them (no offence) and the ones that I found to buy were way to expensive for my liking. So I figured I would do my own. Unfortunately I was about three quarters of the way through when I decided I would do a DIY for it, so there are not many photos of the start.

First thing is to print off the attached pictures / word document (in the zip file) they are just a template that I made up. You will see two lines one each that are 5cm long, these are there so that you can get them scaled correctly for printing.

The template has some black lines and red ones, the black lines show where you will have to cut and the red ones where you will have to fold the steel. Its also done in two halves so that I could print it off with my A4 printer, you just need to cut it out and stick it together in the middle along the green line.

Next stick the template down onto a 1.5mm piece of steel sheet metal and centre punch the points where all the lines meet and a bunch of points around the curved bits. You should have something that looks like this:



Now when you have removed the paper you will see a bunch of marks, and the next step is to play connect the dots with a scribe until you have the template redrawn onto the steel.

Once you have done that you will need to cut it out. I used a jigsaw to cut out most of it and then a grinder to do the curved bits. After cutting it you will need to drill the mounting holes out with a 15/32 inch bit.

After all that you are ready to start folding the steel, just do it so it looks like this:







I have cut out a piece of steel 180mm long by 25mm deep to mount the number plate on, obviously you may have a different size number plate and have to adjust this to suit so I didn’t include it on the template. To attach it I drilled two quarter inch holes through the small bent down piece and then lined her up and put a big tack weld on top of each hole to stick the two pieces together. I did it this way because I don’t have a spot welder and when I tried doing a fillet weld along a couple of scrap pieces I just blew holes everywhere. Next step is to drill some holes to put your indicators into and two small holes to put some LEDs to light the number plate with.

When you go and pull the old fender off you will see a couple of aluminium pieces that bolt onto the sub frame, the bolts go through rubber grommets that you will have to keep to use on the fender eliminator. Just pop them into the mounting holes you drilled earlier and once you have drilled out some holes to put your indicators into you will be ready to bolt it all up for a test fit, should look something like this:





Then give it a sand or a quick go with a sand blaster to get all the scale off the steel. I am sending mine off to be powder coated but you may just wish to give it a spray with a pressure pack. Once its finished I will post up a pic of how its turned out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just another couple of photos, first one shows the mounting holes for the indicators and a small hole that a cable tie will go through to hold the number plate light wiring. I have also added another piece of steel for a reflector to go onto so that I can pass roadworthy when the time comes, and to keep the cops happy.

Second picture just shows the holes for the number plate LEDs.

I have also given it a quick sandblast to get it ready to get powder coated in the morning.



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Me either, picking it up from the powder coater tomorrow hopefully, AU$20 to get it done, so I'm happy with that.

As far as the number plate light, the little black panel mount bezels will go into the holes (as shown above) then the LEDs into them, and of course a resistor to limit the current. After that a bit of glue lined heat shrink to make it all watertight and its good to go. This will replace the original incandescent globe.

The light stuff:

 

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Assuming that you used some sort of CAD or drawing software to create the template, what program was it? Is the original file something you could share if one had the same program, or another program that can read the format?

Look forward to seeing a finished pic with the powder coat and lighting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Nope no cad software - just m$ word!

You can specify the length of your lines and what not to be x number of centimeters and it comes out that way off the printer.

EDIT:

Just saw that you can put zip files on here so I have added that to the original post, so now you have the option of Jpg or a zip file containing the original .doc file
 

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subscribed........
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I now have it back from the powder coater and the number plate LEDs are installed, he only ended up charging 5 bucks (AU) so I'm laughing! Total cost for this has been more like $25 - $30 with the powder coating being so cheap!

Ill hopefully get a chance to install it on the bike tonight so you can see the finished product!

Anyway some more pics:





 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its now installed on the bike finally! I reckon it has come up a treat for what it cost.

One thing I have now found out though is that the two LEDs I had planned to use to illuminate the number plate were horribly inadequate so I have put a side emitting LED strip from oznium. The issue is that I had placed the LEDs way to close to where the number plate meets the FE.

I might post up some daytime pics of it tomorrow.

The pics:







 

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Discussion Starter #12
this is pretty sick. I'm gonna do this. best write up on this i have seen so far, imo.
Thanks mate, post up some pictures when your done eh!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bunnings... you should be able to get it from just about any decent sized hardware store, its just 1.5mm (0.05") hot rolled steel sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It depends a lot on what LEDs you use, as they have different current ratings, but if you use two 3V 25mA LEDs (fairly standard for white) wired in series and one resistor (also in series) you will need a 240 ohm 1/4W resistor.
 
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