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Discussion Starter #1
Was riding for about 45 min or so and nothing out of the ordinary. Riding somewhat aggresively, and came to a stop to wait for my friend. He caught up and we started riding again. Not a minute later and we are cruising so I pull the clutch to shift and suddenly RPM drops from 7k or so to 0. Keep clutch in and coast to a stop. Try to start it and nothing but a click. Tried to push start and nothing, it tries to turn over but just bucks. Buddy comes and picks me up in his truck. Next day I start messing around and roll it down the driveway and hit around 10mph and dump the clutch in fourth. It starts right up. Roll in neutral about 200yds and bike dies again in the same fashion. I try the same thing again and twice it wont run. I roll it back into the garage dejected lol. At this point I get a new battery from oreilys (as mine tested "bad") hook it up and the same click. The lights dash fuel pump all work normally. With all the plastics off my bike I noticed its coming from the starter relay next to the battery. Pull the connections off the relay and they're all corroded so I cleaned them (coca cola works great, just be sure to wash with rubbing alcohol and dry thoroughly). With everything bright and shiny I hooked it back up went to start, relay just clicked. Sh!t. So I measure the voltage across the two main leads and get a normal 12.6v. I hold the voltmeter onto the relay and hit the starter....voltage drops to zero (this means it is now sending the voltage to the starter). I let go of the button and try to bridge the gap with a screwdriver, as I do I hear the starter faintly click, as if it were engaging weakly, but nothing else. My question now is, is the starter bad? This would make no sense as the bike would have kept running when it was push started. All fuses and continuity is intact for all sensors. Any ideas would be awesome.

Update:
Got a battery charger and charged the new battery for a while thinking it may not be fully charged. Still nothing but a click from the starter and starter relay. :cursin:
Here are some specs on the new battery however I think I have eliminated it as the problem:
Part #: ETX9
CCA: 120
Ah: 8 A

The manufacturer spec battery (Yuasa YTZ10S)
Is like 190 CCA
and 8.6 Ah.

I thought a 120 CCA battery would be suffecient as I have searched and many people run them on the same bike. My question is do I need to get a battery spec'd at 190? Or is something more sinnister going on, say with the starter or starter gear not disengaging? Anyone else experience similar problems? Or is there something stupid I missed/easy fix? :retard:
 

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Get a motorcycle battery. Any of them will be better than an auto parts battery. Do this first. Next, if your battery is fine with power I would concentrate on the starter next. Went through this on my 04. Bike would start fine but not when it was hot. Make sure your fuel pump is turning on as well before you bump start it.

Make sure you hear the whine "prime" before you try to start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
..."The lights dash fuel pump all work normally."...

The battery I bought was in their (O'reily's) manual as a direct replacement for an 03 cbr600rr. So it is a bike battery. And I cant even start the bike normally so wouldnt know if I have the same if any problem when its hot.
 

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Oreily manual can say anything it wants.. Your CCA doesn't match the stock battery. Your battery doesn't have enough balls to start the bike. Get a battery from motydesign.com. Smaller/lighter and better than stock.

It's the battery or your starter, will put money on it. If your bike died while riding then your battery crapped out. Now if your battery is fine "like you are saying" then it's your starter not starting the bike. I would guess with all the trying to start the bike is flooded and you will need to get it going to get that extra fuel out. T
 

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What is the voltage across the battery itself with no load, and then when you hit the starter button?
 
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A 120CCA battery is not powerful enough to start these bikes. The minimum they will start with is 150CCA, which is why Honda uses 190CCA batteries. Get a new battery. That one you have is a direct replacement as far as the shape and size of the battery, but not it's rating.

Or, you can take your bike to a motorcycle shop, and get charged an hours labor + parts for them to tell you the same thing we're telling you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, next question, if the battery is not suffecient can I prove this by "jumping" the bike to see if I can get the starter to turn? I know not to turn on the car when I do this before I have eight ppl jump on me.

Im trying to diagnose the problem before throwing more money at it. If the battery is insufficient. I am probably going to return the battery as after doing some hw found that part number as a replacement for the 91-94 cbr. That makes sense as they dont have all our gucci FI injection systems that draw alot.

And T, please read and understand my problem before throwing generic responses at me, the starter will not turn. And inorder for a FI engine to flood it would actually have to be cranking and then not firing, an entirely different issue.

GGAC, I read 12.9 volts and 9.5 ish when I hit the starter button, which after doing more research, found this to be not enough.

Demented, thats the answer I was looking for, a threshold value to work from, like the minimum cca being 150.

Thanks for the suggestions, am out of town over the weekend so wont have a chance to fiddle with it till Tuesday, but I am still thinking bad/insuffecient battery, as even if my starter was bad, would not drain my bike and cause it to die while riding.
 
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Yes, you can, though chances are the CCA on your car battery will be 400CCA or higher. RSX's use a 400CCA battery, but I've seen people put 840CCA batteries in them before because the parts manuals at auto parts stores said they'd be right, same with people putting 440CCA batteries in their cars that call for 550CCA minimum.

IMO, it would be best to use a correctly sized battery to test, since there still is a chance the starter motor might be bad (even though the battery is underpowered). A higher CCA battery would be able to power a bad starter enough to still get it to act normally.

I've got a bad battery in my bike right now, and last I tested it had a CCA of 128 and 12.8V. It'll doesn't have the grunt to spin anything and zaps up all of the voltage with the motor and relay asking for more.
 

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Your FI can leak down even if your bike is not turned on for a month.
I am not going to argue with you but if you want to try my diagnosing solutions then have at it.. I was trying to help you figure out why your lawn mower battery won't start your motorcycle. I simply told you to get a motorcycle battery.

If there comes a time when your bike turns over and over and over without starting, grab a handful of throttle and then remember your bike can't get flooded without it on. After it starts you can right me back and thank me. Your bike can flood even if it hasn't been running or even on.

If your bike starts when it's cold but after the engine warms up it won't start if turned off it's your starter that is the problem.
 

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I'm with T and Demented, sounds like you have a crap battery.

Also you can flood an EFI engine, if its sitting around for a while you will get leak down through the injectors causing fuel to pool in the cylinders.
Second way is to have it turning but not firing like what may occur when it dies at 7k and then slows down till it stops or when you try push starting it, the whole time the engine is turning its putting fuel into the cylinders that isn't getting burnt.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, I will probably just go ahead and order a 190cca ytz10s battery.

I did try shorting and testing the relay and it is a good relay. The bike hasnt been siting for more than two weeks now. Once I actually get the starter to turn, I am fairly confident it will start right up, if not at least one problem has been solved.

And for the record it has "motorcycle/small engine" written down the side of the battery.
 
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I can write motorcycle/small engine on the side of a D battery, all because I can get it to start a 47cc 2-stroke motor. Doesn't mean it'll start a full sized motorcycle with high compression that requires a decent amount of cranking amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, my area of expertise is in cars and not specifically to bikes, but intuitively one would think if that was written on it, it would work. Sorry just didnt want common sense to fly out the window.

On a lighter note got an oem yuasa ytz10s off ebay for 120 shipped. Hopefully ill get er running next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got the ytz10s and hooked it up fully charged....nothing, same click. Im out of ideas at this point but the next logical step is the starter? If it were, what would cause the bike to die while riding and not be able to be kick started?
 
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