[AlphaQ!]

Okay, I have an 03 CBR. This morning I started my bike up and went out to feed the mutt while it warmed up, I heard the motor die, so I checked it and there's no power - nothing! No lights, no gauge nothing! What could it be? Help anyone!

 

[SuuScbr]

did you check the wires to your battery? make sure they are still connected,

also any relays near there, smell in there and see if anything is burnt,

did you hear it die? perhaps the battery said NO MORE, when was the last time you changed it,

also check your fuses,

need a little more info, any mods, any work recently done, any drops?

 

[dsp jaggar]

well played suu ^what he said

 

[AlphaQ!]

as far as electrical MODs I have a power commander, and Halo/projector... I did have a major service done about 2 weeks ago (oil, valve adj., etc.). I wasn't in the garage when the bike died. I was outside, I did hear it... it just stopped... no funny smells and I'm getting like 16v off the battery. I didn't check all the fuses or relays yet because I had to go to work, but if it is - why?!?

I've been searching our site for assistance on this, but I cant find anything with the same issue as mine.

I did find one that says to check the main fuse/relay(s)... where is it? - is it the ones on the left side, or are they located somewhere else? how do I verify if the relay is working properly?

 

[Nico]

16V at the battery... that's bad... very bad.

You will probably find that the 30A fuse under the seat is blown, replace that and hook your voltmeter back up to the battery when you start it again, if you see over 15.5V shut the bike down right away to prevent any serious damage.

If you have over 15.5V you will need a new r/r

 

[AlphaQ!]

thanks Nico for the tip... so, anything over 15.5 volts= BAD RECTIFIER/REGULATOR

What is the ideal voltage range that I should get? I mean on a car 16v isn't bad...

 

[Nico]

16V on a car is bad. 15 - 15.5V on anything is bad.

You should be looking at around 14.4V but not less than 14 at 5krpm. And definitely no more than 15.5V at 5krpm, if its doing over that at idle you have a big problem on your hands if you don't take care of it.

Anything over around the 15 - 15.5V range will be overcharging the battery which causes an excess of hydrogen gas to be released, and even the electrolyte in the battery may boil...
If you mix the hydrogen with a spark you wont be having a good day. That is why when you read the user manual that came with your battery charger it will say only charge in a well ventilated area and not in the vehicle.
If the electrolyte boils it can spew sulphuric acid all over the inside of the bike around the battery as it vents through the pressure relief valve, again - bad day. Not as bad as when the relief valve is blocked though cause then the battery can explode....

Beginning to get the idea mate?

Running the battery to over 15.5V for short periods of time is perfectly safe though as the battery doesn't get the chance to overheat, the main risk you are looking at in this case is to the electronics in the bike, but it will take more than that to fry them... and the fuse should blow before it gets to the damage point.

 

[Neek]

Nico is the man when it comes to electrical problems.

I had so many problem with the charging system on my 03 RR. I replaced the battery 2 times, the regulator from an 05, and the stator from an 05. Good luck with your problem.

 

[AlphaQ!]

Okay, I finally had a chance to open her up and check things out... bat terminals r clean and tight, all fuses are good with clean terminals (including the main one nxt to the bat).

Here's the weird thing - after checking all this I noticed the clock on my gauge working, so I started her up and she fired right up! the thing that scares me now is what Nico is saying about my voltage readings... should I just replace the bat and the R/R?

 

[SuuScbr]

Okay, I finally had a chance to open her up and check things out... bat terminals r clean and tight, all fuses are good with clean terminals (including the main one nxt to the bat).

Here's the weird thing - after checking all this I noticed the clock on my gauge working, so I started her up and she fired right up! the thing that scares me now is what Nico is saying about my voltage readings... should I just replace the bat and the R/R?

no never just replace something,


get your voltage meter out and check the voltage at idle, make sure its in range, and not near 15.5,

if all is good, let it run and see if its happens again, then check the wires near the battery make sure nothing is frayed or melted perhaps a wire touched another and was creating a loop/short which caused the bike to shut off and not respond, just a guess,

GOOD LUCK!


on a side note, if you speed up your gif, she is working em, hahaha

 

[bahkhok]

@Nico

So is it bad to hook a battery tender to the bike with the seat in place. I have the wire for the batter tender routed under the seat. Or in general if connecting the battery to battery tender needs to be done out of the bike?

 

[AlphaQ!]

I did check my voltage(s)... off - the readings from bat is high 16ish. when I start , and at idle I read even higher...like 18-19ish. I'll take some pictures of my readings and post it later.

 

[tenjin]

I did check my voltage(s)... off - the readings from bat is high 16ish. when I start , and at idle I read even higher...like 18-19ish. I'll take some pictures of my readings and post it later.

dude, there is no need for pictures,

at 18 voltes your battery is proably shot (it may work for now, but not much longer) and your r/r is gone, that needs replaced before you take out the electronics on the bike, quit running it till thats done.

 

[AlphaQ!]

dude, there is no need for pictures,

at 18 voltes your battery is proably shot (it may work for now, but not much longer) and your r/r is gone, that needs replaced before you take out the electronics on the bike, quit running it till thats done.

that's what I figured... thanks tenjin and everyone... does any one know if the voltage R/R from an 07' CBR fit my bike? I read on one of the threads here that the R/R on the 03's are bad and was redesigned on later models that's why.

 

[tenjin]

i *think* all r/r's from 03+ work, but ill let some one else give a final answer on that.

 

[AlphaQ!]

i *think* all r/r's from 03+ work, but ill let some one else give a final answer on that.

Can anyone confirm this please!?

 

[Nico]

@Nico

So is it bad to hook a battery tender to the bike with the seat in place. I have the wire for the batter tender routed under the seat. Or in general if connecting the battery to battery tender needs to be done out of the bike?

Nope its fine, they put the warning in there cause there is a slight risk of it going bad when you take the charger on and off the battery, with it wired away from the battery you have removed the risk of a spark and as such there is nothing wrong.

 

[Nico]

Can anyone confirm this please!?

03-06 are all compatible, I don't believe 07+ are plug and play but can almost certainly be wired to suit.

I would just stick to 03-06...

 

[Nico]

Okay, I finally had a chance to open her up and check things out... bat terminals r clean and tight, all fuses are good with clean terminals (including the main one nxt to the bat).

Here's the weird thing - after checking all this I noticed the clock on my gauge working, so I started her up and she fired right up! the thing that scares me now is what Nico is saying about my voltage readings... should I just replace the bat and the R/R?

First thing to check is that your meter is reading correctly, a new 9V battery would be a perfect thing to check it with....

 

[AlphaQ!]

thanks NICO... for confirming... I was hunting around our classifieds for an R/R and almost bought on from an 07 - good thing I waited for confirmation. I was thinking the same thing with the volt meter... I checked it and it's reading good - my R/R is probably shot- :banghead: Should I change the bat as well?