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Discussion Starter #1
Got an 06 600rr that a buddy of mine gave to me.. he said it needed a new fuel pump and has been sitting for about a year and a half. Gas tank was off when he gave it to me and the old fuel pump was out already all i had to do was get the new fuel pump and put it in. I put the new fuel pump in and wasn't getting any power to the bike. I replaced the battery and still no power. I looked at the fuse behind the battery of course it was blown so I replaced a 30 amp fuse now I am getting power I am able to hear The fuel pump prime and the bike starts but idels at a very Low RPM and dies seconds later. If I try to give it gas while it idles it dies. Also the oil can is displayed on the cluster and sometimes the F1 is... im absolutely lost idk if it could be spark plugs OPS or what please help.
 

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Check your fuel pressure and flow. If those check out clean your injectors.

This being a relative unknown bike I'd check the plugs to ensure you have good spark and proper gap.

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Check your fuel pressure and flow. If those check out clean your injectors.

This being a relative unknown bike I'd check the plugs to ensure you have good spark and proper gap.

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Im new to the bike so kind of lost.. how would i be able to check the pressure? Do i have to take off entire air filter housing to take off injectors?
 

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You'll need a 100 psi fuel gauge pressure kit.

I can take my lower injectors out without taking the entire air box off. But I'm not sure about your 06. If depends on if you can get a wrench on the middle bolt of the fuel rail. Should be an 8mm or a 3/8 nut driver.

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Discussion Starter #5
before I go and mess with the injectors do you think it could be the idle adjuster knob? the screw that is on it is stripped and so tight that the thing wont even budge I don't even know that to do with it.
 

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Don't try to adjust the idle unless the bike is completely warmed up to operating temperature.

With the bike over ten years old and the fact that it's been in storage for almost the last 2 years, I'd still suggest you clean the upper and lower fuel rails and the injectors now while you have it apart. Just be careful when removing the o rings off the injectors. Take a picture of each one so you know how the o rings go back on.

You mentioned you had some dash lights on. Is this while the bike is running? Have you tried to pull any codes?

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before I go and mess with the injectors do you think it could be the idle adjuster knob? the screw that is on it is stripped and so tight that the thing wont even budge I don't even know that to do with it.
OK, do a search on here for fixing the idle screw. IIRC, it may have come loose if the PO screwed it off too far.

But the idle speed needs to be the last thing on your list once everything else is confirmed to be functioning correctly.

The other things I'm suggesting sound hard but it's really not that bad. Especially if you can take a short cut and get the lower fuel rail off without having to remove the entire air box. I use a small 8mm wrench.

Sort your bolts, clips, and screws as you go. Tape them to a piece of cardboard, use a magnetic tray, or use a piece of styrofoam. Take lots of pictures as you go.

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well... the bike starts, but doesn't run great, has a light occasionally and is showing low oil pressure. (maybe?! he didn't explain)


i don't think that the first step here is to overhaul the fuel system.


OP, give the bike a good once over. carefully take off the plastics, then make sure the battery terminals are tight, that all the plugs in the harness you can find are well secured and don't show any corrosion. that any grounds you can find on the bike are well connected and not corroded.

check the oil level (change the oil if you are unsure when it was last changed), drain the fuel tank and refill with fresh if you don't know last time it was filled.




once you have done all this, try to start it. you may need to hold the throttle open a TINY BIT to get the engine to catch, then hold it barely open (engine speed ~2000rpm) until the bike warms up. once it's warm-ish (>100f), gently let the throttle go. if the bike stalls you need to adjust the idle and should look into that adjustment.


it could just be partially fouled plugs that need to get running.




start as simple as possible. these bikes are incredibly robust, and many like to take issues they have personally had and apply them to all problems. redrider i'm not saying it can't be fuel, but just because you had the issue doesn't mean a simple non-start is the same issue you had.





get through the easy stuff and report back OP
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well... the bike starts, but doesn't run great, has a light occasionally and is showing low oil pressure. (maybe?! he didn't explain)


i don't think that the first step here is to overhaul the fuel system.


OP, give the bike a good once over. carefully take off the plastics, then make sure the battery terminals are tight, that all the plugs in the harness you can find are well secured and don't show any corrosion. that any grounds you can find on the bike are well connected and not corroded.

check the oil level (change the oil if you are unsure when it was last changed), drain the fuel tank and refill with fresh if you don't know last time it was filled.




once you have done all this, try to start it. you may need to hold the throttle open a TINY BIT to get the engine to catch, then hold it barely open (engine speed ~2000rpm) until the bike warms up. once it's warm-ish (>100f), gently let the throttle go. if the bike stalls you need to adjust the idle and should look into that adjustment.


it could just be partially fouled plugs that need to get running.




start as simple as possible. these bikes are incredibly robust, and many like to take issues they have personally had and apply them to all problems. redrider i'm not saying it can't be fuel, but just because you had the issue doesn't mean a simple non-start is the same issue you had.





get through the easy stuff and report back OP



the oiler symbol shows up on display but I'm not sure why
I will drain the oil and refill it and check everything else either today or tomorrow and report back thanks!:smile2:
 

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if the engine isn't running the oil pressure light will always be on. there is no oil pressure when the engine isn't running.

it will go away once the engine is running and producing oil pressure.
 

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The low oil pressure warning will illuminate every time the ignition is ON and the engine is not running. Since the engine isn't running, the oil pump is not pumping any oil and thus no oil pressure. That's normal behavior. If it's still lit after the engine is running then you have a problem.

Edit: What wibbly said...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update:
I got the plugs out the are oil fouled i got a guy hooking me up with 4 new plugs .. i also have the coilpacks out and im measuring 1.6ohms on the primary resistance for all of them but on the secondary, 2 of them are measuring 13.16 another is measuring 13.20 and the last is measuring 13.30 ... any thoughts?
 

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The coils are fine.

.14 ohms difference is a 1% deviation. Don't worry about it.


Change the plugs and see how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I installed new plugs and im still having the same problem.. took apart entire fuel system (fuel rails, injectors) and tested everything from the injectors to the harnesses.. im stuck now
 

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How can i do that?
Easiest to check is flow. Your color code may have changed but I pull the first relay on the left side and jump brown black/white. This will power the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition. DON'T FORGET!

Raise the tank and remove the lower fuel line. You'll need a 17mm line wrench. Pull the hose out and use a clean milk jug to catch the fuel. Turn the key on for 10 seconds and you should get about 6.5 ozs. I run it for 20 and divide by 2.

Pressure requires a fuel gauge pressure kit. You can buy them or borrow one but it should be 100psi gauge. Hook the pressure gauge to the bottom of the tank if you have the right fittings. I didn't and had to Jerry rig something.

You're looking for 50 psi with the pump running. Give it a few seconds to stabilize before you read the gauge.

When you installed the plugs, did you connect and ground each plug and coil while watching the spark? I prefer to verify spark that way so I can visually see the plug condition, gap, timing, and amount of spark.

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Discussion Starter #20
got it running.. now I have another problem... bike is idling way too high like 3500 rpm...I took out the idle adjuster cable completely out of the bike and I started it and its idling at 2000-2500 rpm lol I have no idea whats going on
 
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