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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 600rr 2005 and I'm using HID's from DDM Tuning. They're 35w H7 bulbs. I've been getting HID's from them for the last three years and this is the first time this has happened.

The first set came with ballasts. One day the lights go out. A friend gets a wire to go directly from the battery to the positive on the flat pin connector that goes to the main running light. He did his because he said something was burnt out at or near the relay boxes on the left.

My HID's die on me four months later.

I got new ones three days ago and swapped out just the ballasts. The way this set of H7's are, the cable with the flat pins are joined at the rubber cover all wrong. I'll post pics later.

So I just swap out the ballasts, leaving the original lights in place.

I put in the ballast to the hi beam, great fit. Like they always belonged. The same with the main running light's ballast. But I still had to put in the white wire that went to the battery into the positive terminal where the flat pins connected. I did that. So I turned the bike's key into the on position and then it happened...

Both of my headlights worked fine, yay. But my bike started automatically, like how a car started. I heard no fuel pump prime. It just started. I turned the key back in the off position and the engine shut down. I turned it back on and the bike started again. I had to use the kill switch to turn off the bike.

I turned it on and off a couple of times and then bike would try to start but the engine wouldn't turn over. The fuel either wouldn't combust or be pumped in. I hear a popping sound when I turn the key to the on position where the white battery wire connects to the flat pin terminal that goes to the main running lights. I also hear a popping sound at the same time in the set of wires and stuff just behind the battery. Both headlights won't come on anymore.

So those are my problems...

1. HID lights keep going out, prompting this whole story.

2. Key in the on position automatically starts the bike. It won't shut off unless the kill switch is engaged

3. Engine tries to turn over but it won't. The fuel either isn't being ignited or the fuel isn't being pumped.

4. There's a popping sound whenever I turn the key to the on position where the starter solenoid is located and also where the white wire that ran from the battery directly to the flat pin connector thing for the headlights on the left connects.

I've unplugged the new HID's from everything and the problem remains. The popping sound where the starter solenoid is continues and the bike continues to turn on when I turn the key in the on position. The battery is fine by the way.

After this is sorted out, please suggest a way for me to have HID's on my bike without overloading the wiring as it will go a long way towards preventing others from having this problem. My bike is my only ride and foreknowledge is the ****.

Please help me. I was well on my way to modding this bike as my previous one was stolen and I'm trying to replicate my old flame, Halloween. Thanks for all your help...
 

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I think you should change the thread title.

I did something to my bike, and non-working HID's are one of the symptoms.

HID's are NOT overloading your wiring, a LOT of have used them without any issues at all.
 

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i got hid on my 04 600rr got them on ebay $36 shipped works fine, no problems for 6 moths, get the new set or just go back to stock bulbs
 

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I've got the same ddm hid kit but 55w and no problems. Why don't you try wiring it back the original way instead of using the battery. If that fixes the problem and HIDs still don't work properly I'd say look into a new company. From what I hear ddm used to be great but they decided to make more money than take care of customers, so quality declined


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I have 35w ddms as well, the only prob I had so far is I drained my battery just cuz I kept playing with the lights. Other then that stop using your killswitch it wont lead you to anything good they suck as it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I stopped using the kill switch to shut off the bike because it'll cause me to replace it much sooner than normal.

I'm gonna find a way to get a wiring diagram and search for a short between the headlights and the battery. Any ideas on the fastest easiest way to find it? Any ideas on how to figure out the problem of the bike coming on when I turn the key?

ALL of your input is appreciated. I do/did a lot of high traffic freeway commute. The HID's and flashing drivers with my high beams has saved me plenty of times. I endorse that for everyone... The flashing part, lol
 

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I had this happen to me. I got a cheap projector retrofit kit from China (never going to do that again) and got it installed. Worked fine for about 4-5 months. I wired it with two with two switches: one for the angel and demon eyes, one for the actual headlights. One day I flipped the switch to turn on the lights, and it shut off the fuel, therefore it killed the bike. I found out if I kept the lights off, it would start. When I got home, I checked the connectors that go to the wiring harness to the front. I found one of the pins was melted a little which would cause it to short







So I just bypassed the connector and hooked up the wire directly(should be the green wire from the right on the last pic).
Right now it works, I only drove it again like 5 or 6 times with the lights on.

You could do the same for now, if that's your actual problem, since its your daily driver. But I would still come up with a wiring diagram and find out what caused that. I don't drive mine now because I live in northern Indiana so I still have time to figure it out.

Ok that's it for now, that was a long post ::crackup::

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Discussion Starter #10
I had this happen to me. I got a cheap projector retrofit kit from China (never going to do that again) and got it installed. Worked fine for about 4-5 months. I wired it with two with two switches: one for the angel and demon eyes, one for the actual headlights. One day I flipped the switch to turn on the lights, and it shut off the fuel, therefore it killed the bike. I found out if I kept the lights off, it would start. When I got home, I checked the connectors that go to the wiring harness to the front. I found one of the pins was melted a little which would cause it to short







So I just bypassed the connector and hooked up the wire directly(should be the green wire from the right on the last pic).
Right now it works, I only drove it again like 5 or 6 times with the lights on.

You could do the same for now, if that's your actual problem, since its your daily driver. But I would still come up with a wiring diagram and find out what caused that. I don't drive mine now because I live in northern Indiana so I still have time to figure it out.

Ok that's it for now, that was a long post ::crackup::

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I really thank you for this. It gives me a place to start. Did your fuel pump come back to life after that wire was bypassed and the issue solved? I mean, with those new lights was the electrical load too much for the wiring which caused melting and the short to begin with? Thanks for the assist. You've got me started...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I finally had it taken in. I'm getting the final diagnosis later today. And yeah, the starter switch you toggle with your thumb, was stuck. I couldn't tell it was stuck until a day or two ago when I started the bike and even though the button popped out, it keep trying the starter motor.

I'm hoping to prevent the HID's from blowing out the wiring harness by running a positive wire with a big gauge fuse in it from the battery to the ballast or lights and the negative to the frame/ground. My brother has this set up on his '04 GSXR 1000 and totally saves the wiring harness.

You guys are awesome and I'll send you the post repair report once I get it
 
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