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Race tires are meant to be heat cycled (used) once. They are not meant to be heat cycled repeatedly as the compound hardens and they loose grip. If it's old or heat cycled more than a few times get some new rubber. This is the reason I don't buy take-offs.
 

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When your slip sliding around the track as if you were riding on wet concrete. Seriously though, race tires and heat cycles are VERY important. You'll know when it's time to get new ones because it feels very "sloppy".
 

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If you are looking for a visual reference, use the depression test. Take the tire's air cap or similarly hard but small object that will leave a depression in the tire if you press it firmly into the carcass. Pick a point on the edge and press down to leave a mark and note how many seconds it takes to rebound to its original shape. Continue to do this across the width of the tire taking notes. Best to do this with a new set to get an average time, then again after a certain number of uses taking notes.

The longer it takes to rebound to its original shape, the harder (older) the compound is getting.

There should also be wear indicators in the form of small holes across the width of the tire as well.

Another visual indicator of tire life is the blue (almost greasy looking) tint that the tire gets after awhile. The more prominent the tint, the older the tire.

Word...
 

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Any tire will last till the cords show. The key is to go slower as it heat cycles.

As for slicks, there are little dimples that act as thread depth markers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
To me, the race tire sticks as well as the regular, the drawback with the race tire is that it takes alot longer to warm and cools faster. On a scale of 1-10, 10 a prof racer, I go about as fast as a 4...
Next trackday, I'll ask the Michelin guy if they should be replaced at the start of the day or later...
I'll buy em there.
Thinking out loud...















.....Am I still wearing the same underwear as the day before yesterday?.....
 
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