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Alright guys. It's posted on other forums but I didn't see one on here so I thought I would post a how-to on this. Hondas are well-known for engine ticking and it's always been the cam chain tensioner. For as long as the CBR as been around, it's cam chain tensioner has been junk and Honda has yet to do anything about it. Even the new bikes have the same problem so what can you do? Buy this adjustable one from APE racing. It's a great product and makes life very easy.

http://cbrzone.com/sprockets.html

(All pictures were taken from google, so thanks to their owners)

First you will have to remove the right side mid fairing. Then remove the tool box that sits in the frame. After that you should end up with something like this, with the OEM tensioner visable.



Unlike the F4i and earlier CBR600s, our tensioner is very accesable. However, I found it hard to get the needed torque to remove the allen bolts with an allen key, and there wasn't enough room for a T-handle. So I highly recommend getting a 5mm 3/8" drive socket. (I believe it's 5mm, but I'm going by memory here so it could be a 6mm, but I'm 90% sure it's 5mm.)



Next, remove the two allen head bolts which you can clearly see in this picture.



Removed the old tensioner and take out your APE Racing Adjustable Tensioner.



Loosen the lock-nut, and back the bolt out as far out as it will go. The dimpled, non-bolt head side is what goes in the motor, so don't try to jam the bolt head into the motor lol.

After you back off the bolt, make sure the OEM gasket is still in place, or use a LIGHT coating of RTV silicone. Then install the new tensioner and torque the allen bolts back down (I don't have the exact specs on hand, but tighten them without going muscle-milk on them.)

Now the fun part...tuning it. Tighten the big middle bolt on the tensioner until it is hand tight and you feel some pressure on the chain. Start the bike and give it a few revs to where you were hearing the chain rattle, most likely between 4-6. Turn off the bike. Tighten the tensioner bolt in small increments and retest untill you're rattle is gone. You don't want it too tight, so a little rattle is ok. A little loose is better than too tight. After you find the sweet spot make sure you remember to tighten the lock-nut as well.

There you go. :five:
 

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thanks man.....

I was working on my bike and am getting ready to put a ape tensioner on myself, and now i know how without flaw. thanks
 

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HAHHA you got jacked for your tools ;)
The bikes come with pretty much a tool to fix most parts that you may need to fix on the side of the road.
You can change your tire. Change your suspension. Remove your fairings.... all Kinds of funn things with the tool kit :)
 

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I might be mistaken, but I think that 06+ didnt come with a toolkit. All you get is a strap for the helmet lock and an allen wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
sounds good. now how tight are you suppose to make the manual tensioner?
Like I said, there's no perfect setting. Just tighten the bolt down by hand. Start your bike, and rev it to where you were having chain rattle, most likely around 4-6 rpm. Then turn it off, and tighten in small increments and retest untill your rattle is gone. You don't want it too tight though, a little rattle is better than too tight.
 
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If you have the bike idling and rev it to around 4-6k and hear a chain like noise would this be the tensioner or the chain? Bike has 30000km (23k miles)

thanks
 

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Ok, so I just installed my APE tensioner and I'm in the process of adjusting it. As I slowly tightened it in small increments, the rattle seems to have gone away but now I'm hearing a pronounced whine coming from that area of the engine. Is this normal and I just never noticed it before or does that mean that its too tight? I got it hand tight, and then throughout the adjustment, tightened it maybe another full turn or so. Anyone have a ballpark amount for it to be tightened? I just want to make sure it's not too tight.
 
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