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Good writeup! I will be doing this soon!
 

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i was curious about this sound so i took my bike to a shop and told me is was the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, said it was about $90 and they would charge me about $65 to change it in about 2 hrs. im glad i saw this cause this looks easy enough to do myself. i have a 07 with 13,000 mi and was wondering what i should go with, the hydraulic one or the manual one? seems like the manual one is least likey to fail you but i dunno.
 

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Did you have to time the engine up or check timing after installation?
 

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Did you have to time the engine up or check timing after installation?
I didn't. I just did the bolt up with my fingers until I felt tension. Then started the bike, and listened for the rattle, and SLOWLY turned it in until the rattle was gone, then backed it of a little.

Worked fine.
 

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Is there a difference in quality between the APE and no-brand CNC manual cam chain tensioner?
I notice that the APE is slightly dearer and doesn't come with gasket.
 

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Yeah it doesn't look like an ape one.
Gasket and instruction not included with ape.
Still working good no leaks?
 

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Yeah it doesn't look like an ape one.
Gasket and instruction not included with ape.
Still working good no leaks?
Strange. Could have sworn it said APE. Ooh well. Running fine, no leaks. Had to wait ages for shipping from US. Was same price as the APE.

Your right, it was from impala66k on eBay. $69AUD + Shipping.
 

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FYI for anyone installing, the best way to tighten is to install a little tight, turn on and let engine idle while you loosen the tension. Once you get a rattle again as you loosen stop and tighten the bolt 1/4-1/2turn and set the stopnut. Easy and the oem way on some bikes. No need to rev the engine.
 

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FYI for anyone installing, the best way to tighten is to install a little tight, turn on and let engine idle while you loosen the tension. Once you get a rattle again as you loosen stop and tighten the bolt 1/4-1/2turn and set the stopnut. Easy and the oem way on some bikes. No need to rev the engine.
Might give this a try, easy enough to access on the '03.
 

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How often do you re-adjust the manual CCT
I know you probably would say how often does the chain stretch?

But after you set it first time, do you just wait till it gets a bit rattle noise? My stock CCT is still good I presume because I cant hear the rattle
 

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How often do you re-adjust the manual CCT
I know you probably would say how often does the chain stretch?

But after you set it first time, do you just wait till it gets a bit rattle noise? My stock CCT is still good I presume because I cant hear the rattle
I've not changed mine since I initially installed it. :)
 

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I've installed mine today, its a hard spot to get a tool into.
I found that if you turn the screw using fingers you can actually feel when it touches the chain guide, then I tightened in between 1/4 - 1/2 turns.
Did it a few times to make sure i was listening in for chain rattle vs valve train noise.

Took about 1hr - 1.5hr
 

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Hey guys if you don't want take off gas tank cover or gas tank use this tools I changed mine took me quite of while how to take it off without removing it's little painful but definitely worth it if you don't want take off everything. I have 2008 cbr600rr I removed side fearing and I had access for it.
1. Take off middle screw.
2. Get 8mm socket and 1/4 socket drive place it in the position.
3. Use metric or regular 1/4 wrench to un loose the bolt. If you have metric wrench it'll make job easirer if not I useed needle nose plier to get rest of the bolt out.(turn the socket drive using needle nose plier)
4. To put it back reverse the process.
 

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Hey guys if you don't want take off gas tank cover or gas tank use this tools I changed mine took me quite of while how to take it off without removing it's little painful but definitely worth it if you don't want take off everything. I have 2008 cbr600rr I removed side fearing and I had access for it.
1. Take off middle screw.
2. Get 8mm socket and 1/4 socket drive place it in the position.
3. Use metric or regular 1/4 wrench to un loose the bolt. If you have metric wrench it'll make job easirer if not I useed needle nose plier to get rest of the bolt out.(turn the socket drive using needle nose plier)
4. To put it back reverse the process.
Thanks for the tip! I'm going to try out the 1/4 socket drive tool later today... my 2009 has been down for a few days because of a new paint job, and I've been looking at changing the CCT for a manual one during this time, but it's next to impossible to fit anything into that area to get that bolt off. I cut down an 8mm wrench and got that in there, but then promptly lost the wrench as it slipped off down into the engine somewhere... gotta get a little telescoping magnet to get it out of there.

EDIT: I certainly tried the 1/4" socket drive tool, but my particular tools were still too large to get in there. I ended up using the cut-down 8mm wrench with a 9mm wrench slipped around it to create a makeshift prybar. I'd push this against the OEM tensioner creating a downward force great enough to break the torque on that bolt. Eventually got it, and was able to unthread it with my fingers. A real pain on these models... but worth it!

See here for HQ photos of this procedure: https://imgur.com/a/N5Ndi

 

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lol, this is exactly how I replaced my OEM tensioner. I cut the wrench, and zip tied it so that It wouldn't drop down if it slipped. Major pain in the ass.

Serious note here, loosen the bolt that is furthest away from you first! if you try to keep both sides even the bolt furthest away continues to be a pain in the ass to remove. So again, loosen the bolt furthest away (like in the picture) first. The bolt that is closest is easy because you can fit a socket on it and have room.

In the future if I have to do similar, I'll use some JB Weld to make a more permanent tool.
 

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The best way to do this it push the plastic housing that holds the wiring out of the way that is underneath the tank. You cannot really remove the plastic housing because it is tight up around the frame on the right side and it would be a pain to mess with getting back on.

Then use a 3" and 6" long (1/4" ratchet size) extensions put together and an 8mm socket. The socket will grab 80% of the bolt so be sure to put pressure downward as you turn so you don't strip it. You can get it out in 30 seconds...
 
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