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Discussion Starter #21
whats the brand name on that torque wrench please and
did you replace the bolts like recommended
torque wrench brand name is Surtek.....no, i didnt replace the those bolts,

good writeup
but I won't clean the pistons with brake fluid.
Soapy water and tooth brush....
...scrappy600: ...brake fluid is used to lubricate the pistons when sliding them back in to the cylinder its not gonna damage the seals....[/quote]

In other words, I need lots of brake fluid to do this? Some to clean and some to bleed when I reassemble?
no, i use like a 50ml - 100ml of brake fluid to clean and lubricate te pistons and seals

Anybody know how important the pin replacement is?
i think it is not very important if the pad pin o-ring looks goods
 

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You sure that's a good idea? Considering the fact that brake fluid absorbs so much moisture so quickly?
Shouldn't be a problem if its rinsed off immediately afterwards and youre carefull just where you use it.
 

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That just seems like a lot of extra, unecessary work (unless you already planed on guttin' the whole system anyway)!
 

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do i need to apply any disc brake cream as you do with car brakes? im a newb with bike brakes but i got new rear pads coming in soon (ebc hh)
 

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Excellent thread! just one thing .. dont make the mistake of pumping the brake lever when the callipers are taken out ..you might pop the pistons out. Do so only after you put the whole unit back on the discs.
 

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Excellent thread! just one thing .. dont make the mistake of pumping the brake lever when the callipers are taken out ..you might pop the pistons out. Do so only after you put the whole unit back on the discs.
Not true, the best way to clean the piston without dissasembly of the caliper is to pump the piston out exposing clean piston so you can clean it properly. Small pressure at the lever watched very closely as you do it will bring the pistons out far enough to clean them. Dont go mad pumping at the lever and you'll be fine. It can be done but as with everything else common sense applies.
 

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Question about the Crush Washers

HI have done the brakes now few times with this one. First time, I got fluid in the old pads, so I changed my new pads, bleed, done, it brakes really nice.
After couple of days, I saw a small leak on the left side banjo, I said, sh..t I did not properly tighten it, so I did some more, I went a bit pass the spec torque and BAAAAAAAAMMM, broke the bolt, thanks god it did not mess up the threads.
I replaced it with another banjo and reuse the old crush washers (wrooonng), again it worked flawlessly for couple of days, after few days, leaking again.
I finally got the new crush washers, question is, the sides are different, one side is completely flat and the other one is a bit curvy. So, how does it go on?

Flat side against bolt head (curvy against line) - line - flat side against line (curvy against caliper) ?

or the opposite:

Curvy side against Bolt head (flat against line) - line - curvy side against line (flat against caliper)

Help would be much appreciate!!.

Just do not want to have to do them again, or mess up the new crush washers.
 

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Did my first pad replacement on my bike today. Great write-up. It was very detailed and straight to the point. Seems like it still had the original pads on it and it has 13,xxx miles on it. Whats the normal replacement interval on these pads?
 
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