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Let's stop here for a second before you screw the fork bolt back on. The directions say to turn your suspension adjustment all the way counterclockwise before you start this project. OK, fine. Unfortunately, when I put everything back together, I only had about 1 1/2 turns of adjustment on the top damping adjuster, instead of the 4 turns I was supposed to have. WTF? I called the guys at Traxxion. They told me that I had to turn the adjusting screw back clockwise as many turns as I was looking for (4 in this case) before I tightened the fork bolt against the lock nut.
Anyone know how many turns of adjustment it comes with stock?
 

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I dont know if anyone has tried this before but I learned this type on a dirt bike forum and it works great. Take the old fork seal and cut it in half with a hack saw. Then you can twist it and put it on the fork to use as your seal driver. Just give some good wacks around it with a dead blow hammer and it'll be seated in no time.
 

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I dont know if anyone has tried this before but I learned this type on a dirt bike forum and it works great. Take the old fork seal and cut it in half with a hack saw. Then you can twist it and put it on the fork to use as your seal driver. Just give some good wacks around it with a dead blow hammer and it'll be seated in no time.
I have done this before on my 2205crf450r, I just left the old seal on then used it to hammer the new seal in then just cut it off. worked like a charm.
 

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Not right now chief, im in the f'ing zone
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I rebuilt the forks on my 04 and i need NO special tools, just about 1' of 2"pvc. Use your old seals to drive down the new seals, so you do not damage the new seals. And whats all the rave about how hard it is to compress the spring? I had no problems what so ever. Changing the seals is a CAKE job if you have the manual.
 

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Not right now chief, im in the f'ing zone
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You don't have to cut the old seal off or anything if you use the old seal to drive the new one. I don't know what you guys are talking about.
 

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I think you can do it, but you can't measure the fluid level or bleed the cartirdge.
Jim,

If you slide the whole cartridge out without taking them apart [and your comment above], can you just measure the amount of fluid drained out & pour in the exact amount of fresh fluid. Theoretically should be at the same level as before so just put it back together without so much hassle?
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Theoretically I think you could. But that freaking fork oil gets everywhere, so I'm not convinced you could get an accurate measurement.
 

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So just to be crystal clear on this... What I need to do the job is:
1) New factory fork seals
2) Some sort of spring compressor (Traxxion tool is probably the best bet)
3) A fork seal driver (PVC, Motion Pro 41mm, or old seal and a hammer)
4) A sawed-off long hex socket
5) A stick that's 3.7" long
6) Something/somebody to hold up the damper rod while re-assembling.

Does that about cover it? (I don't want to get into the job and have to quit while I wait for tools/parts to arrive... Too much room for F-ups when putting it all back together when time passes.)
 

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Discussion Starter #57
When you order the fork seal, you'll get dust seals too, or I did anyway. Besides that you list looks good-to-go, as long as you have the skills and tools to get the wheel and fork leg off. The nut on the top of the fork is big (24 mm?) so you need a socket for that if you don't have one lying around.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
From the first post:

OK, now out to the bike. First, take off the front wheel and front fender. If your front stand uses the forks, you're going to have figure out something else. I used my floor jack under the exhaust, then put jackstands under the frame sliders. (Note: If you don't have a floor jack, go buy one. What are you, a girl?)
 
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