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i didnt evan realize you could do it with out pulling teh whole cart??? sounds like i did it right :)

Compresed to pull damp rod
released spring
removed spring and cart
pulled the tube apart replaced busings and seals
bolted cart back in
filled her up
pushed fluids around
measured 93mm
dropped sring back in
pushed sping to retain
screwed rod back in
released spring
closed it up

im not a suspension guru yet... but i am seeing where this can become addicting... PS that was the messiest job id ever done hahah. no matter how well you think youve drained it, there seems to be some oil hiding some where !!
 
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Some people run in to the problem of not wanting to get the spring compressor or holding tools, and think they can just unbolt the fork cap, unbolt the cartrdidge at the bottom, and pull it out as an assembly. Change the seals, dump fluid in there, put the cart/spring/cap back on and that's it.

Lots of brake clean takes car of the oil. A cheap $50 parts washer helps big time as well.
 

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i really need to go spend like a grand at harbor frieght on some cheap tools like that just to make my life easier ahahah

thanks for all the help guys!!! i was and still kinda am a bit nervious about my first change... hope it did it all right and i dont go down cause i did something wrong!!!
 
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Go out for a short little ride full of a lot of really hard braking. Measure where the lowest point on your travel is and see if any fluid is leaking.

Would be hard to mess something up with still using the stock springs and such.
 

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thanks demented! will do... what amount of travel do you think i should use? i mean i know this is realitve to how hard i can stop... but let me know that you think?

(by the way this is ALL great info for testing after doing your own forks!!!)
 
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You're just testing to make sure the forks aren't bottoming out too early, while putting pressure on the fluid to leak check the seals.
 

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holly cow!!! while i was doing forks i also redid my head bearing ( races are HARD to install hahah) but this bike fells amazing!! super feedback right now.
 

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Just wanted to point out for the people that are thinking about attempting this- you don't need fork compression tools if you're just going to be replacing the seals. If that's the case, follow the procedure until you're supposed to compress the spring. At that point empty the oil out of the tube (carefully) and then disconnect the entire rod assembly by unscrewing the bolt on bottom. then you can continue as normal.
 
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Just wanted to point out for the people that are thinking about attempting this- you don't need fork compression tools if you're just going to be replacing the seals. If that's the case, follow the procedure until you're supposed to compress the spring. At that point empty the oil out of the tube (carefully) and then disconnect the entire rod assembly by unscrewing the bolt on bottom. then you can continue as normal.
If you're doing the fork seals, you will need a spring compressing tool. It's true you can pull the cartridge out of the fork without one, but you cannot set the oil level or bleed the cartridges without removing the fork spring. This is why compressing the spring to remove it is required. That goes for both USD and regular forks.
 

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demented, i plan on getting the rt compression tool and mp seal drive, do i need to use the damper rod holding tool too?
 
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demented, i plan on getting the rt compression tool and mp seal drive, do i need to use the damper rod holding tool too?
It makes the job easier if you plan on doing fork work a lot. If not, some rubber fuel line will work just as well.
 

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For what you are doing ( Fitting a 30mm cart kit) You dont need that tool or even the spring compressor.
All you need to do is loosen the top fork cap and the 8mm allen key bolt in the bottom of the axle casting and dump out the cartridge and oil. Then flush the fork tubes out, replace the seals and check the bushings ect.

I'll try to post the pics of the tools later.
 

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For what you are doing ( Fitting a 30mm cart kit) You dont need that tool or even the spring compressor.
All you need to do is loosen the top fork cap and the 8mm allen key bolt in the bottom of the axle casting and dump out the cartridge and oil. Then flush the fork tubes out, replace the seals and check the bushings ect.

I'll try to post the pics of the tools later.
Okay, I looked at the video of the 25mm cartridge demo from Ohlins AND looked at the Ohlins installation manual for the 30mm. The two kits are exactly the same except size I think..parts look identical.

Anyways, now I know what "tools" you're talking about. Basically there are 3 tools I will need.

1) Tool 00797-08 Fork cap tool. May be able to make this by welding a couple pins to a bar and use to loosen or tighten the fork cap. It's MSRP $80 from Ohlins. Ouch...

2)Tool 01797-07: Use to tighten the lower part/inner fork tube (Ohlins) to the stock lower fork tube.
Per Ohlins instruction, you need to take the lower part of the Ohlins cartridge, install into the stock fork via with the 8mm bolt at the bottom. Add oil then install the upper part of the cartridge. To do this, you need this tool.

My question is do I need to install the cartridge in "parts" like this or can I just install the whole cartridge to the stock then add oil/pump out air etc???...If I can install the whole thing at once, I can tighten the two Ohlins cartridge outside and not need to get this tool (It's MSRP $130..ouch).

There is another tool...which tighten to the part at the top somehow allowing your 18mm open wrench to sleep over the nut so you use the tool 00797-08 to tighten the cap down to the cartridge....

I was going to take the easy way out and have the shop does it but I like the challenge..its' fun. It's not that bad I dont' think if you have the right tools.
 

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Just got off the phone with Ohlins:
regarding #2: Can tighten the cartridge outside and install them as 1 piece. No need for tool 01797-07.

I guess I still need to hack up a fork cap tool (#1) and figure out a best way to compress the spring to slip the 18mm open allen wrench in..
 
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