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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just did my brake lines this weekend. it was a pretty straightforward process but here's a couple of things to keep in mind for any of you that may want to attempt this:

1. Galfer wants you to take it to an authorized mechanic. If you can unscrew a bolt and adjust a torque wrench, you can install these lines with relatively no problem. However you will have voided the warranty on these lines...i've yet to figure out how they can find out you installed them yourself so someone help me out on that. maybe they require a maintenance invoice or something..

2. Get .17mm i.d. clear tubing. works perfectly for the bleed process.

3. Don't get brake fluid on paint or plastic, but you knew that one already.

4. For front line install, it's way easier to just give in and take off the front fairing. It's only a matter of 2 bolts and unplugging the harness.

5. Turning the handlebars to full left lock while the bike is on it's kickstand will make the front res parallel to the floor.

6. Bleeding brakes w/o those fancy speed bleeders or siringe can be done...the easiest way I did it was to pump the lever with one hand and open/close the bleed nut with the other. process i used was this...open bleed nut, slowly pump the lever to full squeeze, close nut, let lever go, repeat. i did this to prevent sucking air bubbles back into the system.

7. Probably the most important tip is...when installing the front lines into the MC/front res (2004 RR, probably the same for later models too), make sure the lines are angled so they are pointing towards you as you sit on the bike. Otherwise when you put everything back together you're going to find that you need to re-do the whole job b/c now you can't turn the handlebars to full left without the lines bumping into the gauge cluster/highbeam plug. Trust me, that one was a hard lesson to learn.
 

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Thanks for the tips. How did you secure the lines to the triple and forks. The left side doesnt have a clamp.
 

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Thanks ms8367. I just installed them. They feel good. They are pretty stable with out being tied off.

Another tip is to not turn the wheel when the cover is off and on the kickstand. I had the cover off and turned the wheel. The kickstand was resisting moving and then "snaped" and shook the bike sloshing a little brake fluid out. No damage though. That may be what you were talking about turning the wheel resisting. :)
 

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Another thing on bleeding... I did it like this and seemed to work well too.

1. Pump the lever a couple of times and hold. 2. Open then close the bleed nut. Close the bleed nut as the lever is coming close to the bar. 3. Release the lever and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What I meant was that I installed my brake lines wrong...where the lines are bolted into the reservior, i had them angled towards the front of the bike when the should have been angled towards the rider. This was causing them to bump into the gauge cluster when you turn the handlebars to left...it wouldn't even turn all the way to the left...maybe about half way was all it would go. i discovered this after everything was closed up....so then I had to do the whole thing again since opening up the lines to fix it introduced bubbles into the system.

what you said about pumping, holding, closing the nut, etc was what I was talking about in #6.

either way i'm glad i was helpful.
 

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For the small investment Speed Bleeders are def. worth the cash, buy them!

On the tip note, I made sure I had a bucket of water with a rag in it incase I got fluid on ANY painted surface.

Brake fulid hates water, water is your friend. =]

Jason
 

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blue_rrockit said:
7. Probably the most important tip is...when installing the front lines into the MC/front res (2004 RR, probably the same for later models too), make sure the lines are angled so they are pointing towards you as you sit on the bike. Otherwise when you put everything back together you're going to find that you need to re-do the whole job b/c now you can't turn the handlebars to full left without the lines bumping into the gauge cluster/highbeam plug. Trust me, that one was a hard lesson to learn.
DUDE thanxs for that tip..... i would of re-installed them if i didnt rear this twice LOL.. thanxs dude .
 

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blue_rrockit said:
7. Probably the most important tip is...when installing the front lines into the MC/front res (2004 RR, probably the same for later models too), make sure the lines are angled so they are pointing towards you as you sit on the bike. Otherwise when you put everything back together you're going to find that you need to re-do the whole job b/c now you can't turn the handlebars to full left without the lines bumping into the gauge cluster/highbeam plug. Trust me, that one was a hard lesson to learn.
My lines seem to touch the upper fairing stay when full left or just locking my steering. Do you have pictures of how they are routed from top to bottom to help ? Im going to redo my brake lines this winter so any tips would help.
 

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Couple of other tips is to use a zip tie loosely tied around both lines to the lower triple area. Also have lots of rags just in case,because just in case happens! Also keep a close eye at all locations for any brake fuild leaks for a week or two. Doesn't hurt to try another bleeding after a week or two.
 

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One more thing, A lot of the SS brakeline kits have aluminum bolts. Most of the companies say to tighten 12 to 15ft/lbs torque. Problem with that is that brake fluid is a great lube and if you use a torque wrench it will only reach about twelve and then keep spinning at that torque until you snap the bolt. If this happens to you, you can usually use the stock bolts with most kits. Easy way to avoid this problem is to tighten until you feel the bolt start to snug and then turn another half turn. :icon_supe
 
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