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^^ pg. 9-9 and 9-10 of the 03-06 cbr600rr service manual
 

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The OEM CCT is perfectly fine...what rattles is that tip. Don't buy that crap manual chain tentioner...

Look in his photo, you can see the tip of the CCT is held on by a pin...what I did was welded my tip and no more rattles. I don't like the manual chain tensioners b/c they don't ever add tension and squids can over tighten them.
 

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ilips, the problem is usually not the chain, its just the automatic tensioner not providing as much tension.

Mike, I would not worry about the noise if it goes away. Don't know if its just mine, but before I switched the tensioner, it would make more noise as my bike warmed up. Mine is an 06 so I am guessing it is almost exactly like the 05.

This is 100% false...it is an old rumor.. The stock tenstioner is providing plenty tension....there is more then enough room in the oem tensioner to provide for even excessive amounts of chain wear.
 

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The OEM CCT is perfectly fine...what rattles is that tip. Don't buy that crap manual chain tentioner...

Look in his photo, you can see the tip of the CCT is held on by a pin...what I did was welded my tip and no more rattles. I don't like the manual chain tensioners b/c they don't ever add tension and squids can over tighten them.
really? i thought the sound is the chain slapping inside because of the loose tension. i wonder how the OEM automatically adjusts tension
 

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noob here, but I too have a rattle most prominent at 4200.
My local shop put on the ape cct and it rattles less at lower and higher revs but still hits that noisy spot around 4k every time. I took it back over and he adjusted it, but as others have said in this thread, he didn't want to make it too tight.
Have any of you successfully stopped the annoying vibration noise completely or do you just live with it?
 

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SoyMilk: The OEM CCT is a spring loaded unit that just keeps pushing on the tensioner at a specific rate to keep the chain tight. They do go out and the CBR seems to have lots of problems with CCT. If it's really making noise, I suggest you change it. Whether you use the OEM unit or an APE is up to you but the APE needs to be periodically adjusted as per the manual. Lots of newbies or non-mechanically minded riders don't do this thinking it's a lifetime unit. It says it's a MANUAL CCT, so that means it must be manually adjusted. The Honda OEM one is an automatic CCT but, as noted, seems to be fairly weak in the long run. Don't know of any automatic CCT's on the after market. Any info on that anyone? Stock OEM automatic CCT's cost around $65-70, the APE can be had for about $51-59.
 

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what about on the 07, im still searching threads, how do you get to the second bolt, those of you who have done it know what im talking about.
 

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The 07 has the same issue. Mine only has 5,500 miles on it and needs a new CC tensioner. I'm putting one on this winter.
 

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SoyMilk: The OEM CCT is a spring loaded unit that just keeps pushing on the tensioner at a specific rate to keep the chain tight. They do go out and the CBR seems to have lots of problems with CCT. If it's really making noise, I suggest you change it. Whether you use the OEM unit or an APE is up to you but the APE needs to be periodically adjusted as per the manual. Lots of newbies or non-mechanically minded riders don't do this thinking it's a lifetime unit. It says it's a MANUAL CCT, so that means it must be manually adjusted. The Honda OEM one is an automatic CCT but, as noted, seems to be fairly weak in the long run. Don't know of any automatic CCT's on the after market. Any info on that anyone? Stock OEM automatic CCT's cost around $65-70, the APE can be had for about $51-59.
So if your replacing the OEM CCT because it's no longer doing it's job then why not just get a new OEM one? Why mess with an aftermarket manual CCT? If the OEM CCT is more then capable at offering more then enough tension but just went bad why not just get a new OEM one? It's not like the OEM one is like $200+ and this is an inexpensive alternative it's only $10-$15 cheaper.
 

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I have heard two reasons.
Not sure how accurate they are.
One, because the OEM ones tend to go bad.
Two, if you do track days and/or race, the spring in the stock one can't always keep up with the constant full throttle revs.
 

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I have heard two reasons.
Not sure how accurate they are.
One, because the OEM ones tend to go bad.
Two, if you do track days and/or race, the spring in the stock one can't always keep up with the constant full throttle revs.
All parts go bad over time and the second reason makes no sense. It's spring loaded and locks so once it goes out a certain distance it doesn't go back. It's not like it goes in and out constantly. Also it'll only moves a very tiny bit at a time.
 
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