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Did this last night and wasn't to hard. At first I was breaking everything out with the intake in one piece. Then after getting most of the stuff out, I split it apart at the middle connection and made my life easier. Got carried away and took the lip tabs off also at the bottom, but don't think that will make and big difference. Looks a lot cleaner and easy to do. Great write-up!
 

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To OP: Thanks a million for this how to write-up! I just did it today and I was never left hanging between steps, wondering what the heck I was supposed to do. Took me 6 hours, but I'm always slow when it comes to stuff like this. Tis the price of being a perfectionist I guess. Also, I can definitely recommend the use of a dremel if you have access to one.

I really only came away with one question, and that's with regards to that weird little chamber with the two round holes in it, and the rubber grommets in the holes. WTF is that?
 

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What's up with the username? You are a killer who rides an RC51 or are you trying to kill my kind off?[/quote

lol
no i had a few RC51 back in the day and when i would ride around with the other guys on the RC i would always kill them that beeing said the always call me rckiller
 

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gutted mines today. with a good ol sawzall. maybe 1 minute to cut it out. didn't block off the two holes though. since i wheelie a lot im thinking it will help keep it a lil more stable
 

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how would this make it more stable?
 

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Yeah...good idea not to block them. I did on mine and I can hardly keep it straight on both wheels let alone one!!
. i didn't mean keepin my front end more stable. sorry makes me look super noob. it thats what u thought i meant. i just meant keep the to prong things in the intake would keep it from crackin.. but i rode it today and it definitely felt smoother and less laggy. a EASY MUST DO!
 

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help

I got it all apart and gutted the intake.

Started putting everything back together however, anybody have problems putting the upper cowl back on?

for some reason i can't make it fit.

thanks
 

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^If you blocked off the side ports, the upper cowl will run into the aluminum block off plates you made (if that's the cowl you're talking about). You need to grind down the two ends to have it sit flush, otherwise it will just push your aluminum plates right through (especially if you used the can aluminum method of blocking off the holes).
 

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^If you blocked off the side ports, the upper cowl will run into the aluminum block off plates you made (if that's the cowl you're talking about). You need to grind down the two ends to have it sit flush, otherwise it will just push your aluminum plates right through (especially if you used the can aluminum method of blocking off the holes).
:+1::iamwith::drunk:

either take off the aluminum plates or pull off the two side ports (one on each side under the fairing stay).
 

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I figured it out.

I had the Combination Meter cable wedged in the front instead of the side and I had the upper left headlight mounting point in front of the fairing stay instead of behind.
 
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