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Discussion Starter #1
After a lot of searching and coming up with no results I've put together a step-by-step how to on removing your throttle bodies. I may have forgotten a small step on unplugging one item here or there, but you'll be able to figure it out. Note, people in CA may have an additional step to remove some 5-way joint hoses (not shown below).

This will hopefully save you a headache and plenty of cursing.















 

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why exactly would someone want to remove the throttle bodies?
 

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Harry
Excellent explanation!! Just fitted a HRC quick action throttle kit to my RRA and got to the point of trying to work out how to remove the lower cable. Read your article and removed the throttle bodies and it is real easy. Stupidly refitted the stock cable and refitted the bodies but only took ten minutes to swap over. Overall lots of things to remove etc but pretty straight forward.
Cheers BUD

Duncan
 

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Thank you!!
Do you run a quick shift and if so which type?? I have a HM Plus and it is good but I detect a slight lurch on change up @ 13K
The kill duration is 65ms do I need to increase the kill duration to say 70 ms?
Any advice is welcome

Duncan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You're welcome. I upgraded to the Motion Pro as well, so I figured I'd document the process since I didn't see one up here.

The only tool you'll need is an extra long philips screwdriver (16") to get the throttle bodies loose. You can get it for cheap from Harbor Freight, since I doubt you'll use it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Mack,

The screws that tighten the hose clamps to the throttle bodies are in the picture below. In order to access them, look underneath the frame, above the clutch cover and strator cover. On the strator side you'll see them by your VIN sticker on the frame. You can access the two on the left, then go to the other side for the two on the right. You should be able to see them with your fairings on.




Yes, if you loosen, that's all you need to remove the OEM throttle cables. The only way to do it without removing the bodies, which is more of a PITA, is to use a pair of needle nose plyers that are curved, and you'd reach below the green arrow. My method is much easier, even though you have an added step. You just need a long philips screwdriver. Check harbor freight, and use a 20% coupon.

 

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Hey Mack,

The screws that tighten the hose clamps to the throttle bodies are in the picture below. In order to access them, look underneath the frame, above the clutch cover and strator cover. On the strator side you'll see them by your VIN sticker on the frame. You can access the two on the left, then go to the other side for the two on the right. You should be able to see them with your fairings on.




Yes, if you loosen, that's all you need to remove the OEM throttle cables. The only way to do it without removing the bodies, which is more of a PITA, is to use a pair of needle nose plyers that are curved, and you'd reach below the green arrow. My method is much easier, even though you have an added step. You just need a long philips screwdriver. Check harbor freight, and use a 20% coupon.

Okay. As soon as I posted this I finally noticed the screws and understand how now.

My other question is how tight do they need to be? I noticed two of them could be tightened more but I do not want to over tighten.

Thanks a lot bro!

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Discussion Starter #18
I just read the service manual, no mention of how tight the insulator band screws (technical term) should be. I just made mine snug. The Throttle Bodies are mentioned on page 6-60 of the service manual.
 

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I just read the service manual, no mention of how tight the insulator band screws (technical term) should be. I just made mine snug. The Throttle Bodies are mentioned on page 6-60 of the service manual.
Okay...I am looking. So after those bands are removed they should come out? How much wiggling/pulling is involved. They are not coming out haha...unless I am missing something.


Where'd you get your manual? I have the Haynes one and I do not even have a 6-60.
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Discussion Starter #20
It will take a strong back and forth (front to back of the bike). They're like a suction, so it will take some elbow grease to get them out.
 
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